Mopar1973Man

I know a lot of people have to transmission work at home on their shop floor without a lift. I wish I would of shot pictures on the way out. What you need is 2 cam buckle straps and 2 ratchet straps. On the way down you put both cam buckle strap across under the transmission on at the front and one at the rear. Hooking to the frame one on left and on right side. Once the transmission is loose wiggle a bit and allow it to be cradled in the straps. Single man can hold like the rear strap ease it down a few inches and then swap. Now the photo here I used the ratchet straps to lift it back up but doubled up with cam buckle straps. So again ratchet strap can be reset while laying in the cam buckle strap temporarily and then you can go up some more.

Edge EZ is only a +60, 63 or 65 HP Edge Comp and Edge Juice are both 120 HP. Edge Comp is half the price of the Edge Juice and way less toyz. No touch screen, no alarms, no limits, etc. But the same software. All the extras on Juice are not performance enhancing just eye candy (touch screen), annoyance (alarms) and defueling features (limits).

It could be a gear issues internally inside the gauge. I would contact ISSPro for support.

Sad to say Moog is not doing so hot any longer.

I'll do a quick video on my fuel pressure gauge. It wiggles around constantly.

Double check your wire tap and MAP sensor connection. I've had both do this. I've had my jam nut come loose on the Stealth Plate and making a weak connection for the wire tap. Then I just had a bad connection on the MAP sensor plug that caused a random up / down surge of power.

Glad you figured it out...

Typically that is because a failed power steering pump typically that has push debris all through the system. Then they replace the hydrobooster without flushing and then end up with more debris in the new hydrobooster. Remember these power steering systems don't have a filter. So any debris has to be flushed out first thing before putting the new hydrobooster and/or power steering gear box into service.

Don't assume. I've seen people blow up axles for that same comment. "It was just serviced xx k miles ago". So are you sure it's filled up completely? Did something start to fail anyways? (Any metal glitter in the oil) What's the brake fluid look like? Is the calipers binding up? The only way to check that you have to pull the calipers off the truck and disassemble them and check the piston clearance without seals in place. The pistons should drop to the bottom of the bores without being pushed.

All I can say is look at the hydrobooster first. As for the pedal slow to return it hard to say I've paid any attention to that being I so rarely even press that pedal till I'm in a big city. Exhaust brake gets used quite a bit. I know from bleeding out my system now and then that the full stroke return is slow but normally the usage stroke is so short I don't notice any travel maybe 1/8 to 1/4" of pedal throw.

Jumping back over there...

As for OBDLink. I found the Cummins ISB Volumetric number to be correct. Stock volumetric efficiency is 63% and you would "add" the percentage of offset to this number. Then as for other information, I'm working on displaying fairly accurate horsepower and torque numbers. So far its seems to be rather close. As for trip data I've ran into a snag that is rather depressing so some reason the App is failing out and shutting down. No error per say just "Sorry it's no longer working" message. So I'm working with the techs to see if I can resolve this.

Actually, I suggest the same thing but I highly suggest the cheating and going to the house for the things you forgot. Then I suggest buying another set of whatever for the RV. We are now down to just packing clothes and electronics. Most of the other stuff is already packed in the RV. So saying we are going to leave is just a few hours of packing and straightening out around the house and locking up. We normally don't bother with food we pick that up on the way usually hitting a larger city store and getting something we normally can't have. As for the RV I highly suggest doing it without hook ups that way you understand the capacity of water, holding tanks, and power. You learn extremely fast what you can and can't do.

First question are you using any programer like a Smarty? Smarty and other flash tuner make a trainwreck out of calibratin being that it fools the fueling tables. With normal boxes like Edge or Quadzilla there is no issues on calibration. As for ScanGauge II Diesela is correct. As for Idle it shows ZERO is correct. As for calibration I do it on long trip when I'll fill twice in one day. Where there is mostly highway running and very little idle time. Idling or high idling will skew the outcome and calibration. Like my settings are: Diesela, Fillup Offset 14.5%, Speed +1% Typicall right on the money.On the 1996 its Gas, Fillup Offset 233%, Speed 0%. Now to shift gears I've been working the OBDLink LX dongle and it is just as accurate too. JUst you got to start from Volumetric Efficiency of 63% and add to it the offset to get calibration.

160k on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500... Dynamic Transmission Rebuilt now. I'm dying to get it installed. Custom modified valve body, and lots of other modifed parts put into the trans.

6 cords... Got 2 cords left.

Funny Dripley would say that. I've got a generic hose that is over 15 years old from my previous RV. The only thing different is the ends are screw-on and removable. So I can buy another generic hose and reuse my ends. No hose clamps. Also have the dump flange that fils the void so you don't have to smell the nasties while dumping. Absolutely... Take a camera and get some photos of your trips its always funny to share experiences.

Just looking around my own neighborhood and watch the hundreds of roads that USFS, BLM, Idaho Dept or Lands and other agencies close up. Then guess what instead of reporting that the closed the road so it can be pull from the maintenance list so now the Federal Govt is collecting tax dollars of road maintenance for roads that are closed. Another thing is when it comes time for fire suppression the road is locked up so more fire explode fast because of lack of access. Out here it usually list as close for game and wildlife habitat it's all BS! Then it gives then the right to go in and burn an entire mountain out because of excessive fuel loading. Again destroying natural habitat and natural resource because most control burn or prescribed burns turn into a trainwreck. Another one destroyed a great camping area around a lake locally to me for a "Squirrel Habitat" Are you flipping nuts? Now this destroyed the fish and camping on that lake. So now that force you into a tight campground and charge you fees. We've had more large forest fire now than ever in the past. It about "Fire Managment" not "Fire Suppression" as we do locally. Stepping down off my soap box...

Not even connected to the dongle, sitting right here at my desk. Tap the 3 dots and menu...

3 little dots in the lower left corner is the ADD function. For information value. Here is Brake Specific Fuel Consumption for Our ISB engines.

Might be worth it to just scale thee axles and see what you actually have in weight. I typically scale the trucks and RV every year at least once to see changes of axle weight. Tire inflation makes a huge impact of how the suspension feels. Just being 5 PSI too high could make the front axle feel rough. So it would be worth checking tire inflation vs axle weight. What I do is calculate full load and empty pressure and take a sharpie and write it on the driver door jamb.

The volumetric Efficiency is the number that will calibrate the GPH flow number. It calculated from the MAP sensor and a few other things. Brake Specific Fuel Consumption is not used for this but you can place that in for I think HP / TQ calculations. I'm check that this next trip. Disregard that funky Mar 11. I was still attempting to figure out the VE setting and how to get it right. Yes. You need to fire up the display device first and get connected as you get started. I'm trying to find a simple way of get everything fired up. There are a few setting for auto connection and auto display of the dashboard. As for saving it saves the data internal and is ready. It creates daily bar graphs of MPG. I will warn do not set the logs function up for some reason for me it crashes the App after about 8 miles. I'm not sure what data it capture yet but will find out soon as well. As for display or dashboards as the App calls it I created a new dash last night that is rather interesting and managed stuff 8 radial gauges on the display. Now is the data present for them I don't know. Also take notice I went for full range of the two temp gauge. I know the full range for both is -40*F to 240*F anytime I can see real value. Now if you limi the gauge to 100-240*F as the dash is then you get the same result as the stock gauge. Also on the two temp gauges I added the lime green normal zones or optimal zones.

Typically the compressor either has a label or you can call a local NAPA store for thee recharge quantity.

Well most know I'm on the way of having the 46RE fixed because I lost my direct clutch pack according to Dynamic. Got 160k miles and the transmission crapped the bed on me. Now my NV4500 manual everyone always scared of the 5 speed with the 5th gear nut issue. Nearing 260k miles and still working flawlessly. No issues at all I most likely clear 300k without a problem. Which is twice as far as my 46RE made.

Always best to pull the compressor and drain the oil. Then recharge with 7 ozs of PAG 100 directly in through the drain hole. Guessing at oil charge is dangerous over charge and you could blow a compressor up or under charged and eat the bearings out of it. As for recharge I typically run by pressures. Lo Side I aim for 35-40 PSI and Hi Side should run about 225 to 250 PSI. Typically right around 2.5 to 3 can (12 oz) of R134a freon. Best to have ambient temp above 70*F when you recharge. Too cold outside could produce lower pressures at that point I typically go by volume which comes back to the 2.5 to 3 cans. Properly charged system should not cycle the compressor even if the RPM's are raised to 1,500 RPM it should hold solid.