Mopar1973Man

I'm working on getting more into it. first thing is build up another accurate trip computer. Start simple and learn as I go.

My thing is I see the BLM issues more so being I'm directly involved with USFS, BLM with forest fires and see some of the impact here of BLM control. Sickening...

Well gang... I'm back to playing around with OBDII Data again. I'm wanting to move the ScanGauge II to the 1996 Dodge Ram and use my OBDLink LX bluetooth dongle for the 2002 Cummins. The OBDLink LX is basically plug and plug. The Android Software you can get off Google Play. Now as for setup there is a bit configuring. Make sure to fill in the easy stuff like year, make, model. Now the important stuff is the volumetric efficiency, engine displacement (liters) and select intake manifold absolute pressure. You see the 77.5% that is figured from the base line for Cummins ISB is 63% then my old ScanGauge II had a offset of 14.5% so adding together you get 77.5%. So I took off and did a quick test run. So the numbers look like they are close to right. I'm going to need to do a nice long haul and get some test data to verify number. As for my display I use. You can configure anything you want. I added warning zones and normal zones making easy to glance at it and see the needle in a lime green zone or not.

That's a myth. Biodiesel does not clean out a fuel system also petroleum diesel doesn't gunk up a fuel system either. I've opened a lot of fuel tank here locally and never seen a dirty diesel fuel tank from petroleum diesel. It's all about the dispensing pump at the fuel station do they have filters or not? What type of filters water blocking or standard media? This will affect that out come. Like myself majority petroleum diesel and changing filters at 50k miles because its a waste at 30k miles the filter still looks new as seen below.

Yeah... Tuner. I'm running Edge Comp no gauges with the Edge Comp so stand Alone. Comp in on the column. No extra wiring just 8 wires on the tuner.

I still say fix the issue. Why is it people like me can drive 2 hours get out grab the line in it just mildly warm? I still say there is a restriction creating the heater where I'm not sure. As for when I'm going to bet that the first pump failure ejected debris into the system and it's still there hence why you frying pump yet. Remove the debris the heat is will go away. I've seen the same thing too. Ford was really known for issues for heating up the power steering being they typically ran ATF vs. power steering fluid like Dodge did for years and very, very, rarely in a few heavy duty series did Dodge add a cooler to the power steering. From all the Dodge vehicles I've owned including a Dodge motorhome Class C none of my vehicles had a power steering cooler. Same old pump and saginaw gear box.

Stand alone gauge. Remember the Edge juice and iQuad can only report the sensor data from the CANBUS. So if the sensor is failing so is the display data.

I have a hard reading anything that comes From U. S. Department of Energy: Alternative Fuels Data Center. Of course they want to sell Biodiesel. Now get a independent lab more likely get a different story. Same people that bought you EGR and DPF's. Our wonderful gov't and infinite wisdom. Basically like running winterized fuel all year round. Still in all petroleum diesel still has the highest energy content. Just like unmolested gasoline has more BTU's than ethanol mix gas.

Again in the video high pressures will cause the pump to burn up. So restriction...

There is two adjustments on the gear box one adjustment you can do on the vehicle. The other you need to remove the gear box to adjust the bearing preload. The adjustment you most likely did was the over center adjustment which is the jam nut and the Allen stud. The bearing pre-load is the red collar in the picture which you have to remove the gear box to do properly. Some rebuild kits will have the bearings for the output shaft. Not much in a gear box.

Then you should be able to order just the tail section from MBRP...

Call some of the vendors you might be able to order just the tail tip too...

No replace everything from the turbo to the rear bumper. I just finished an exhaust kit on a 1995 Dodge replaced every bit of the exhaust system. So much nicer going from straight pipe 5" dumped forward of the rear axle to 4" fully mufflered, full exhaust all the way to the tail. Turn out excellent. The owner extremely pleased. The 5" at 60-65 MPH the drone was so bad two people couldn't talk in the cab unless you slowed down to 50 MPH. Full exhaust system is right around $350 bucks and all new then.

For the money it would be just smart to just do a exhaust system for your truck.

Damp, mildew and more mildew. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.24525270653619&lon=-116.3321042060852&site=mso&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text#.VuIQFCZVKlM I got to dry out sooner or later. I'm going to start to mildew... Or turn into a frog.

That is technically the same as 265/75 R16. Anywhere on the pressure side most likely. Gear box rebuild kits are about $40 bucks and can be done with most common hand tools. The "wear" can be adjusted out typically as long as no parts are damaged. Yeah because the 3rd Gen is running ATF and also have a heavier front axle weight vs the second gen body. Not to mention belt driven pumps vs. gear box driven. I know there is a RPM difference as well.

Fluid is getting burned because of excessive pumping or flow restrictions. Not using ATF are you? Thing is you not running oversize tire or anything to add stress on the front axle so there should be any other reason but a flow restriction. The only way to add heat is to restrict flow. Also remember most all power steering pump do not have a true filter other than a screen. Again if the debris is already forced into maybe the hydroboost or gear box port and restricting flow then heat is going to be produced. Kind of like saying you got a overheating issues with the engine instead of fixing the thermostat (restricting flow) your going to install a bigger radiator. I still say to find the restriction and the heat issue will vanish.

I would have to say you have a restriction somewhere. Mine never get that hot. It's warm to the touch <140*F. Now I have to ask what kind of fluid are you using? Rather common for folks that ruin a pump to end up pumping debris into a small port somewhere causing a mild restriction. I would highly suggest you resolve the heat issue and not add a cooler till you figure it out. Because most likely you'll still ruin pumps with a flow restriction.

After talking to you on the phone last night kind of nice to put a voice to a picture.

Still have a problem with that... How to you create energy from nothing? It's already been documented that biodiesel is lower in btu content but producing more MPG's? Normal #2 Diesel Fuel at 129,500 BTU's per gallon or 113.64% more than gasoline. B20 Diesel fuel at 127,250 BTU's per gallon or 111.11% more than gasoline (2.53% loss of power) B100 (the worse) at 118,300 BTU's per gallon or 104.17% more than gasoline (9.47% loss of power) Here is showing my local fuels I did this some time ago.. Dark green is summer and light green is winter. ATSM grid.

ECM, PCM and VP44 ground...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent Biodiesel might be better lubricity wise but the BTU content will always be lower. So MPG's wil typically be lower than normal #2 Diesel.

Bathed in gear lube typically.

More... http://www.wnd.com/2016/03/set-up-assassination-alleged-in-fbi-kill-shots/