Mopar1973Man

Same here... Don't get me wrong if I wanted I could turn up to 5x5 and still drive smokeless but it up to my right foot not to get aggressive on the throttle during low boost. I ran that way for years. But it's much easier to have the Edge set for defueling for you. What I get is a small lag time till 10 PSI is built and BAM! The power is on and the truck is pulling like a crazy mule.

There is minor things like the wait to start light and other diesel related stuff that might be omitted from the loom. I would suggest you stick with diesel truck.

Bigger the injectors the more you drop to lower sublevels to control smoke. Like my +50HP require sublevel 3 to be smoke free. Someone like TFaoro would be more like a sublevel 2 because of running larger injectors. I will use Sublevel 1 in the dead of winter to keep traction on slick roads. Keeps the turbo from lighting up and getting squirrelly.

Who us? Naw...

Here is the article on Edge settings.

Here you go.

Yes. The one I've got does.. (Tigerdirect)

I would like to suggest that you get in contact with @Dynamic on the site he's our on site automatic trans guru.

You'd like my 7" Azpen A729 tablet. https://www.azpenpc.com/shop/product/93-azpen-a729-7-dual-core-android-tablet-with-dual-cameras-hd-lcd-1gb-ram-8gb-storage-game-store-and-office-suite/

Just above the your throttle foot in the dash. So if your smart pull the entire dash and take it. It will take some effort to get the wiring out if needed.

If you going that far you could do a keyless entry, remote start and car alarm...

Highly suggest you use a relay for the lift pump circuit. Stock Dodge lift pumps are direct wired which is very risky.

You'll most likely want to get the central timer and the cab wiring (maybe). I'm assuming the wiring is all present in your truck already. Pay close attention to plugs.

No. No mobile apps required. This skin is mobile ready and automatically reacts to the viewport size of the mobile device. So like on my tablet it automatically changes from mobile to desktop by rotation.

http://www.rammount.com/device/phone_mounts This might help...

If you already done this testing then you might consider replacing the APPS with a timbo's APPS.

Go over here... https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2000Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=88 Scroll down till you get to page 106.

Interesting...

Crossover tube is because of water getting back behind the injection line nut. The line nut is not water tight so if you wash your engine off at all then the water could get into little space and rust the tip of the tube.

Even the chrome plated sockets will rust if given the environment to create rust. Like my set I keep in the truck they seen several rain and snow storms. Even had times where I closed the case and held it up to drain the water out. So even chrome plated sockets will rust. Now my stuff in the shop tool box I've not had any problems with them. I just wipe everything off and put it away. I'm not the typically solvent wash my tools a bit of oil film isn't going to hurt anything.

Be careful with grease near any kind of brake fluid system. Grease and oil will destroy seals in the hydraulic systems.

Maybe you got more room that I do... I've got big hands so a little bit of room goes away fast... Why not do us a favor and create an article of what you do on that pivot if you go that far...

Then your in for a big job of getting the pivot pin out so you can replace them.

For the pedal pivot I would lay a big shop rag on the floor and hose the pivot with silicone spray and see what it does for the pivot.

Like myself I'm running NAPA hydro's and Southbend Con OFE clutch no issues. So I really doubt it all going to be hydro's. Typically a bad hydro will bleed off and start engaging when you hold the clutch for long periods. Typically you'll see fluid wetness on the firewall side or maybe weeping into the bellhousing. I heard of on case where a pin hole was in the tubing.