Mopar1973Man

So am I. Being that HFRR score testing proved already that 2 cycle oil was a good improvement over straight diesel fuel. Beyond that at least in a 24V Cummins engine the fuel is sprayed in the cup of the piston. Should not make any contact with the cylinder walls. So beyond that there is no gain to the engine (piston / cylinder) but there is for sure a gain for the entire fuel system from lift pump, injection pump to injectors. Again US petroleum diesel fuels score at 520 HFRR typically unless biodiesel then its way down to 200's HFRR. Again EU fuel or other countries might have different standards for their fuel so comparing is not valid. Still between the independent lab test, and Bosch's requirement numbers I tend to still hold to. Of commercial products will always have test results that will sell their product even through it could be nothing more that kerosene in a bottle. (Yes, there is a product out there that is just that...)

Most likely brittle with age and just the pure flexing of the plastic gave up.

BHAF are a good filter for the 24V trucks. Much better than the stock air box.

Go over to BlueChip page and do the hot wire test.

Sounds like the VP44 is brain dead and needing to be towed home and VP44 replaced.

P1688 and P1689 are bad signs. The P1688 means the VP44 is brain dead and the P1689 means the VP44 is not talking with the ECM. I would get hold a coder reader and erase the codes and see if it starts again. Shooting from the hip. I know disconnecting the batteries will not reset any codes or computers but if there is a problem where the computer isn't letting go maybe it might buy you one more start. Also it might resolve a bad ground. Double check the connector in the PDC for good connection. Be careful the bolt is "Really Easy" to strip out. Still I would highly suggest you have the alternator tested for AC noise.

65*F and lower should trigger at least 1 grid heater. I'm not sure when 2 is triggered. Then again that why I suggested a second person turn the key to ON while the other is probing quickly to see if power is present or not. If you got a high idle switch setting it for 3 CYL mode would for sure trigger both grid heaters for MAX amount of time.

Really easy on a cold start using a test light probe both studs on the grid heater and have someone turn the key to ON but do not start. There should be power to at least one grid heater on a cold start with the freezing weather you should see both grid heater posts with power or test light lit up.

Nothing wrong with it is there?

That was my thought too. Color. 2 Cycle Oil tints the fuel that strange blue-green color.

What's wrong with a little 100 MPH tape for both problems? ☺

How often do you see semi-trucks scattered along shoulder of the interstate with gelled fuel issues? That's a good place to get fuel.

Pretty simple just run your heater hose all the back to the fuel tank and back forward again.

I can tell there is 2 cycle oil in the fuel but that fuel is awfully cloudy looking. EDIT: I'm going to say if the banjo is starting to rust... Then you have a watered fuel issue. Apparently your water separator isn't working to well with because your fuel filter is of low quality.

I've got a truck parked in the yard with ZERO fuel pressure. Has been for quite awhile. The previous owner install a Edge Juice CS and didn't both to install either the boost elbow or the fuel pressure sender.

Yes sir..

Ok. Then how about watching it rain here but in the distance mountain watch it snow. No fancy devices, no fancy internet sites. I say the weather today is going to be rainy and mild. High country snow possible with 1-3 inches of accumulation. LOL...

Interesting video... Link...Video

Then we must be having a summer heat compared to all of you.

I still say to turn the grease trick it should make a temporary fix and problem should go away for a short time. Eric at Vulcan Performance has warned me of the suction line being known for rolling the o-ring back and getting air leaks. Thick axle grease should fill the void for a short time and make a change. If so then you know that it would be best to just change the fittings out and replace them with Parker Push-Loc fittings.

Weak batteries will cause problems on the PCM possibly an alternator noise issue. As for the linkage just check quick to be sure the throttle bellcrank and the transmission key down arm are moving at the same time. You should barely be able to see the transmission arm while moving the throttle bellcrank. They should move together at the exact same time.

Call Module Master in Moscow, ID they can rebuild the ABS module for a good price and comes with a 5 year warranty. http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/

First of test your cluster and see if it is damage or throwing errors. Second there is a plug on top of the oil filter mount. You can add a oil pressure gauge there for testing or permanent. The actually oil pressure sender is typically right near the ECM on the driver side of the block. 3 pin plug.

Ah here you go... Local outfitter. Small bones Eh? It's still a trout... Steelhead...

We got a local reservoir full of perch. Fish and Game have been trying to get rid of the perch and bring back the trout. If you show up in Idaho I'll take you there.