Mopar1973Man

Ok... Then... How about in the blazing heat you able to kick 6 cylinder high idle to help cool down the cab faster with A/C? How about a friend has a dead battery. You can enable 6 cylinder mode and kick the RPM's up to make jump starting easier. Still you can use MPG mode any time you wish. It still gives a mild boost in MPG during the warm up stag.

Just watching the rain here, it has been pouring cats and dogs for a few days. I can imagine the increase in stream flows. So far Idaho is way low and long ways from danger. Now looking over MoparMom's shoulder and seeing the pictures of Portland, OR and its runoff and flooding... My prayers are sent as well.

You could get the high idle feature either by going to a dealer and have them enable it. Or... Barrow a Smarty programmer.

Check you battery temp sensor in the driver side battery tray. If the sensor is damaged then the batteries will most likely over charge.

I would leave it unhooked and see if the module is causing the problems or not. If the ABS module is having troubles and shorting out the CCD network then the rest will crash as long as it's hooked up but if you unhook it and everything works then the module should be returned for warranty service.

If you have a warranty I would send it back or contact them and talk to them and explain the problem. Like mine I just got my module back from "Module Masters" and still had the same problem yet. Come to find out the wanted me to clean the sockets and makes sure the connectors what making good contact. I was using di-electric grease in the plugs. So I clean them out and now found I was getting a consistent issues of pulling right. So I replaced my right sensor with a another used sensor and it went away. So what you'll need to do is get a code reader. Now reset the codes and see what comes up after restarting. Is in the same codes? Now unplug the ABS module (both plugs) and now reset the codes again. Now test it again do the codes return or not? I know either case the speedometer will not function till the CCD network issue is resolved.

Here is the wiring diagram... (attachment below) As for sensors. I will say if you still having issues I'm going to bet its like myself its going one of the front sensors is mismatched and causing the ABS / BRAKE light issues. As for the error codes that is CCD network bus error. antilock brakes.pdf

Just return from McCall ID... 31*F and pouring snow. Down here is raining. Yes there is a ploughed road ahead of me... Somewhere...

According to the error for the P1291 is that the ECm is looking for IAT temperature change in the first 15 second of engine run time, If you locked to 140*F there is no change and the ECM assumes the IAT sensor is acting goofy. What's weird I've never gotten that code ever in the 4-5 years of having the switch. So its a software difference between the 99 and the 02.

Hmmmm.... During the summer time I spend most of my time out in the woods either cutting firewood, camping, hiking, ATV riding. Which goes hand in hand with Search and Rescue which I volunteer for Idaho County Sheriffs office and the Salmon River Fire Dept. As for the fire Dept I'm a Station Captain so I've got a crew under myself as well. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/10343-tepee-fire/ Come winter time like right now I enjoy the web site. Not so much as a user but the server administrator and coder. Like this evening I was playing with CSS3 code and playing with site styling just for fun. This below was just being creative because I was bored. As for my 9 to 5 job. Well I'm self-employed mechanic here in the valley. Been doing Dodge Cummins repairs and modifications for locals. I've been contracted by a local that has a total of six Dodge trucks in his fleet to maintain.

That's all I every do is either park over a sprinkler or get out the power washer...

For guy here that lives in salt in country and has two trucks that have plastic bed liners. I'm still to this day rust free in the bed. The only thing I do is pull the plastic liner out once a year and hose out the bed and allow to dry. Then reinstall the bed liner.

Lets say by Thanksgiving the ski resorts should be open. Right now they opened and barely got 18-30" of snow to ski on. New Meadows, ID should bury the fence post along the highway by Christmas or New Years. Long ways from that. I should have at least 1-2 feet of snow in my yard right now. Older Video. (2011 winter)

I'm referring to 98.5 to 02 cluster and the oil pressure gauge issues. 94-98 clusters should be oil pressure sender to cluster direct wired. Still in all I would still test with a mechanical gauge.

Umm... No. Just rain here but snow above. Pollock ID New Meadows ID

There isn't any voltage regulator on the cluster like old school. There are fully digital stepper motors commanded by CCD network data sent from PCM (fuel and volt gauge), ECM (tachometer, oil pressure and coolant temperature) and ABS (speedometer) computers. That why to test the cluster you hold the trip pin down and turn the key on look for the word CHEC in the odometer window and release. This fires the cluster computer in diagnostic mode to test all gauge functions and spit out any error codes at the end. So as for the weird oil pressure gauge behavior that function of one of the updated flashes that Dodge created. Like another one I've seen too is once the voltage hits 12.00 exactly the voltage gauge drops to 8 volts and chimes the CHECK GAGE light. Even though the voltage isn't 8 volts it's 11.99 volts and falling. All data to the gauges is delivered on two wires. So basically in a nutshell the cluster is its own standalone computer.

Still not out of the woods. Yet... I'm not going to say anything yet till I talk to Module Masters Monday...

Grid heater is cancelled after a period of time or if your speed exceeds 20-25 MPH. The grid heater will remain off. Grid heater is more obvious when you start up cold and instantly rev the engine to about 1,500 RPM's and hold you can watch the IAT fall quickly and then the ECM will trigger the grid heaters. You'll see the voltage fall rapidly and the IAT will start to rise about 1-2*F at most then grid heaters cycle out again.

Well I got it in hand... Now to install it in the morning...

Still amazes me how much people attempt to ignore AC noise issues and build some new hack APPS sensor. I still say time to test for AC noise if you have to modify.

30" inch. I just installed a Diamond Eye 4" exhaust with 30" muffler on a 1995 that had a 5" straight pipe with serious drone issues at 65 MPH. Now its whisper quiet in the cab. The exhaust note is way better.

Here is a bunch more... https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=5.5mm+bore+scope&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#channel=fs&tbm=shop&q=usb+5.5mm+borescope

The OBDLink LX software doesnt have any logging abilities. Might be other apps out there that do.

Just do a part look up on Rockauto and see if there is two different clock springs.

Should I would figure... There was the standard central timer and then the high line series. High line provided the vehicle security, steering wheel controls and host of other options. For some reason in the back of my head the heated seat function is a central timer thing for high line... Just not sure..