Mopar1973Man

Depends on the leak. It could be sucking air into the mater cylinder. Look at the rod under the dash and the firewall see if its wet looking.

Personally I would just buy a another stocker full assembly and install it. Stock system seem to do fine even with a Southbend clutch rarely ever have any problem. No need for adjustment works without all that special gadget. I would ditch the stainless hose for the plastic being the stainless attracts and holds heat on the fluid longer. But that's just me..

Thanks LiveOak very good article and I love the video at the bottom of the page. So very true...

Welcome to the family Ken. So you not a newbie to diesel then. You'll fit in with all the other diesel nuts here in the family.

List all your numbers for each cylinder.

Shouldn't. The sealing copper washer is there for that purpose. No compression should make it past the copper washer on the tip.

You not going to run the test slug and there is no other injectors in the rail. There is no fuel there to seal out. So don't worry about the o-ring.

You'll know what I mean when you run the test. With the other 5 holes open you should here a free roiling engine till it hits the compression stroke and it will make a off beat sound. That would be 1 beat or one compression stroke. I typically stop after 3 times. Also I've had a few test the theory on hot vs. cold compression test typical the hot test shows higher pressures. Rings seal up better.

My first thing I normal do is grab my handy test light. Then run through both the PDC and the cab fuse panel checking fuses. When you check fuses tap both post it should light up on both sides. If none light up then that circuit is not powered. For example the radio fuse will show no power because it requires the key to be ON. So a blown fuse will have one post with power and the other post dead. Pull the fuse and check. As for the bigger square fuses under the hood you'll have to pull them out and use a ohm meter.

Hmmm... There is a thought but every thing is in a tube or channel so there is no exposed wires to the outside of the trailer. All completely protected design. I've got all my new plugs for the rear tail lights I just need the time to do the repair work. Been really busy around here between shop work and site work.

One day I'll get time to install mine. I've got a 95 Dodge in the shop now again. So it's on hold again and again...

That's a heavily modified racing engine. Stock engine would never hold up to that. Like said before get gauges. Protect your investment. If you want to verify your engine health just do a compression check and do a pop testing of the injectors while their out.

Really simple. State the facts and keep it minimized in responses. Nothing to it.

Just rather be truthful than hiding the facts.

After about 25*F mine won't even start without grid heaters.

Heck just being in the mountain of Idaho and completely stock truck with no mods you can melt something really easy pulling heavy loads. That was one of the first things I learned after installing gauges in my truck going over 7% grades at normal highway speed it very possible to exceed 1,400*F worth of pyrometer just hauling a heavy trailer.

Again you shouldn't. Because you not a vendor nor are you staff of M73M. Lets say the eyes are heavily watching me right now and I don't dare even say anything about High Idle over there. It would be what would get me banned for sure. I've already been warned once already.

Yes as standard users you can but none of my staff member should be public talking about the high idle switch really. It too risky if CF staff member realize or another vendor reports them they could be warned or banned for vending without paying CF fees. Since you not a vendor nor a staff member of M73M you are fine.

Count the beats. Typically I'll do 3 beats and stop. Check the measurement.

You will get banned... You stealing vendors sales from the site or vending without paying $400 a month fees... (Not a typo).

Contact in the relay do over time get pitted like starter contacts and eventually arc weld together or arc pit so bad that they no longer make a good connection. So investing few bucks into a fresh relay is "cheap" testing.

Just ordered a test cap for the rail and a fuel pressure test gauge (low pressure side). I've got my OBDLink for the high pressure side. So as soon those tools come I can continue testing.

Here is a vid on the calipers...

The one on the right looks like something out of MadMax...

Lets say losing 1 manifold bolt is enough to drop my truck from 35 PSI to barely 8 PSI and EGT's sky rocketing instantly. So if you have several small weeping leaks it could add up.