Mopar1973Man

Here is what I found... KSB unit is the black part on the side with the tube and there is a single blade connector.

Actually VE pump are dynamic as well. But its based off of IAT temp which releases the KSB solenoid on the pump and the timing is controlled by fuel pressure. Crude but it does have some timing. P7100 was one of the only pumps without timing. Then the VP44 was the first electronic controlled pump out for the Cummins ISB (Dodge Trucks).

Neither do I... But I will say it better than the old school P7100 with absolutely no timing at all.

With rolling hills and some flats here in Idaho I typically see 550-600*F at 55 MPH and about 1.5 to 3 PSI of boost. Today temperature max'ed out at 79*F and about 25% humidity.

Timing is checked by both the VP44 and the crank sensor (cam sensor later series). ECM is in control of the timing based on boost for the most part. As boost rises timing retards which is based off the autoignition temperature theory. So at normal atmosphere the ISB typically produces about 400-450 PSI of compression so at 30 PSI of boost it about 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. With those kind of pressure there is a lot of heat so the VP44 can retard timing because it does not need the long amount of time to ignite the fuel. But now on a cold morning at idle the timing will be bumped up to aid in keeping the truck running. Now add about 10 PSI boost pressure you'll hear the timing shift and the rattle goes away which is the VP44 retarding. Optimal timing is when your near zero to 5 PSI of boost. Now the only thing I can't confirm is as you increase RPM I know there is a certain amount of advancement required to fit the ignition into the right window. But again most of us daily drivers don't keep it wound tight at 2,500 to 3,000 RPM. Well maybe some of the 4.10 gear guys do...

Expires on 3rd month of 2016... That what the 03 is month number. Also years are color coded.

I would like to make a shout out to the member that sent me the front sensor back in the spring of the year. Long over due but now I got the time to replace my well wore out and damaged ABS sensors. So here we go I'm going to do both side. Total time to replace is 30 minutes for both. Start out by jacking up the front axle and jack standing the axle for safety. Now remove the tire using the proper socket and impact gun. Mine being aftermarket wheels is a 3/4" socket. After the wheel is removed grab a large flat blade screwdriver and pry both caliper piston back a little. Now using a 5/8" 12 point socket remove the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Now lift off the caliper and frame as a assembly. Now you should be able to remove the rotor. Note: Early series trucks have the rotors held in place by the wheel studs which requires removal of the unit bearing. Now grab a proper sized Allen wrench to remove the Allen bolt holding the speed sensor. Now you may lightly bend the shield metal up to gain some room. Now I'm working with the passenger side so I got to get the BHAF and heat shield out of the way. Now I will have access to the connector up top. So now just careful remove all the old ABS sensor and lead taking note of where its routed along the brake line and frame. Now route the new sensor in the very same manner. Making sure to snap in the wire in all the clips and push the holders back into the holes on the frame. Now carefully bend the shield metal back down over the ABS speed sensor. Slide your rotor back up on the wheel studs. If you need to use a pair of open face lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Now slip the caliper and frame back over the rotor. Grab your blue loc-tite and put a bit on the bolts. Re-install the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Before mounting your wheel again double check that the wire is out of the way of any moving parts and not going to be damaged. Now remount your wheel and tire and torque your lug nuts. Now for the lights ABS and BRAKE both lights should go out within a very short amount of travel. Like in my case just getting outside the door frame of the shop the ABS and BRAKE lights went out.

Article updated thank you...

Not always so. Depends on your working speed. As timing advances so does the torque curve. So if you running highway speeds with 65 MPH to 80 MPH then yes some extra timing is desired. But like myself 45 MPH to 65 MPH is typical for me. So less timing is more desirable because now it brings the torque curve back down into lower RPM's creating power where I need it. Over advancing timing will move torque higher in the RPM range so you have to spin higher yet to make power.

I would contact the shop that did the transmission work. 600 miles it should still be under warranty.

Upper right corner click your username. Menu drops down select "My Settings" The on the left tabs look for Email & Passwords"

It's actually India... There was a article in Daily Mail web site about traffic over there... I had to snag it.

No. The compressor will not start unless there is a at least 35 PSI on the low side. So if the system is empty without pressure then the compressor will not run at all. If you want to insure no damage just unplug the compressor or remove the A/C relay. If it was me I would recharge the system enough to circulate some UV dye. Then start doing your leak checking during the fall season with a black light. Another way to deal with it is buy a o-ring seal kit and spend about 1 hour and change all the o-rings. Some part kits come with the wrong sized o-rings and don't seal properly. (like your evaporator replacement).

More live cameras... http://511.idaho.gov/ Live Boise Camera (Flying Wye) Just 5 miles from home... Live camera

Ain't telling...

Vacuum or fly by wire system? Vacuum you might want to check all vacuum line and the vacuum motor for holes or vacuum leaks.

I'm glad to stick with my standard open differentials.

Fuel in a liquid state will not burn. You can take any fuel you wish and light it up and the flame will burn on top of the vapor. Diesel having a high flash point will normally take longer to reach this state. But since a diesel engine is based on "Autoignition Temperature" then the compression shorts this conversion. Boost pressure make it even shorter. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature The autoignition temperature or kindling point of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will ignite decreases as the pressure (boost pressure) or oxygen concentration increases. It is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture (diesel fuel). But again its about of fine of atomazation you can get. Now if you got crappy injectors that are pissing in the cup of the piston then all bets are off and the efficiency is going to way low.

Also on CR engines they start out stock firing ATDC. I remember AH64ID posting the Smarty table of a stock timing table. Now as for the 24V it only one massive event. The whole efficiency thing is based on getting that liquid fuel converted to vapor in a mere few degrees of crank travel to make it go BOOM! So as people go up injector sizes the atomization isn't as fine as the stock injectors but more fuel is pushed into the cylinder hence why most larger injectors get smoky because the droplets get to large and don't convert in a timely manner.

Correct. 7 Holes and each hole is 0.008 thousandths of a inch.

I missed it even... The problem we are all missing is not a donated member. The option is disabled. Thing is it was a BoD group decision when the site rules and options where made back in Feb. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/471-donations-membership

Yeah he's a Idahoian...

From the fire... Look close at the fire and there are homes... Then a fav...

Here is the article on how to do your own EGR delete on your 6.7L Ram Cummins. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/4th-generation-dodge-cummins/75-engine-system/487-egr-delete