Mopar1973Man

Sorry there really isn't any pictures to take. There was a hot spot burned in the case from the inside. Right in the brush area of the cap. The drain tube is burned off from the fire. So I pull the starter and the owner has a lifetime warranty with the local NAPA. He's replaced several starters that I know of. Basically I got to repair two wires for aux fuel pump back by the tank (stock carter) and install the new starter.

I was talking rotting the freeze plug (corrosive failure) not racing and blowing the freeze plug (pressure failure) there is a small difference in worlds. Where most daily drivers don't see those kind of RPM's where some one that is a weekend racer might.

Kind of like unscrewing the oil filter and dumping out the oil filter to change oil in the truck.

How else are you going to learn if you don't ask plenty of questions? Like my knowledge on 2nd Gen 24V is very strong but put me in the CR engine I'm all thumbs. Why you see me asking AH64ID and other about CR stuff how else will I learn being I don't own a CR truck.

For also the 2nd gen trucks too. It needed so when owner forgets to change coolant and it rots out the rear plug that can bolt that on to resolve the issue. But if you change coolant and flush the block out on a regular basis there is no need for such a device.

Like I've said before Diesel World is just like the Muscle Car world of the 1960's. We had big block that produced some serious HP/TQ. Then comes the 70's and start of smog equipment. Really basic just like the VP44 and early CR engines. Then Heavy duty stuff came in the 90s for span. Just like the diesels now with Urea, DPF and EGR and all the sensors. Eventually it will settle down and straighten out again. But in the meantime people will buy what every fits their price range.

Still I need to give the owner options so as for delete kit who carry them? As for programmers which one?

That is part of the problem. The pump only hold maybe a pint where the power steering gear box hold nearly a full quart to itself. Then you have the hydro boost with maybe another pint. So just pulling a few ounces out of the pump did nothing for the other quart and a half of fluid.

I'll stop by the owners place and talk to him about it. Still in all he might still want the option of deleting everything.

So this is a dealer flash I'm assuming your talking about?

John its a local rancher that is crawling around the back country slowly tending to cows. I'm unsure of the software on the vehicle. All I can say is the vehicle won't regen till he's running a bit over 100 MPH. No joke. He's been fighting this truck since he's bought it.

Here is write up AH64ID did for common rails... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/53-engine-system/119-power-steering-flush Basically the same but the return hose comes off at the back of the power steering pump. Return lines are easy to spot being they are hose clamped on and pressure screw into the pump.

I've seen one case of that on my truck but after changing the fluid out the problem was gone. I'm due to flush mine out right now just need the time to do it.

From my experiences a size of pipe goes up the drone changes when its going to occur in RPM's. Even with 4" exhaust on 24V it seem more common for drone issue than the 3" did. I know 3" is not a option for you but just looking at noise issues. Now there is a few that changed drone by band clamping T post to the pipe. Another way is where in the pipe the muffler is at closer to the or rear will change this as well. But again kits don't give you much choice for placement.

Its a 2008 Dodge.

Vacuum connector is near the throttle pedal and you should be able to do some back testing. Might be debris jamming the doors. Possibly a bad vacuum line most of the vacuum stuff is near the throttle pedal the other is the fresh air door against the passenger kick panel.

Thanx... I'm on the left and MoparMom is on the right.

What Nick attempting to do is allow it to branch naturally and see where it goes more or less. Then there could be a stand alone and maybe something a bit more. It working more or less like open source coding for Linux. Every is welcome to take the design and modify it how they see fit and see where it goes.

Not a very good site... When you select 2008 Dodge Ram 5.9L and it returns a Duramax EGR cooler? They don't even list a 5.9L delete...

May I ask what your going to use it on? If you considering the truck for long term storage I would consider pulling the IOD fuse out. This will keep the Ignition Off Draw from drawing the batteries down. I've done that in the past when I was using the 1996 Dodge more. That's why they made that funky fuse clip for that so you could pull the fuse without losing it. Then I just typically use a normal battery charger and I can just plug in morning and unplug at night. Once a week. Another way to cheat this you can put the charger on a lamp timer so it runs for say an half an hour or hour every day. But as for continuous battery tender we have them on the fire trucks. The bad part is if your not paying attention to electrolytes ANY battery tender is capable of boiling a battery dry. Once a cell plate is exposed to air it ruined. This why I tend to use the timer idea vs. continuous.

I invested in making some changes for the office area. I got us a two computer desk measures 72" x 24". The desk has a cord tray under the table top to keep all the cords and cables from being seen hanging. Then stopped by Home Depot and picked up a sheet of 1/4" plywood. Then JAG1 had a can of gunstock red stain left over from his project. That was just enough in that can to stain the sheet of plywood. The sheet of plywood is $25 for a 4' x 8' piece where chair pads at roughly $45 a piece at Staples. So now with the new desk I can have my indoor veggie garden started.

The problem is the extrenal regulator is prone to over charging the batteries. The PCM regulator has the battery temp sensor and is capable of adjusting the voltage based on battery temperature so cold batteries like extra voltage where hot batteries like less voltage to stay cooler. The external regulator bases it value off of under hood temperature which is OK. But if you got a battery with a cell issues starting the batteries tend to boil over throwing acid all over the fenders and hood. This is a reason why I don't like that mod but it does work in a pinch.

I've also got a job for a 2001 Dodge truck by a local rancher that has just had a starter fire. When I inspected the truck tonight the truck does indeed still start and run but watching closely I started see white smoke from the starter again. After crawling on my back and looking up there is something damage in the brush plate and shorted out. Which then allowed it to ignite the oil and fuel slobbered on the engine. There is a few 3rd party wires that are burnt but nothing system critical. So when I get back down to doing the job I'll take my camera along and pop some pictures. Safety sake I left the truck with the batteries disconnected till I get back.

Ok Gang. I've got a local rancher that has had his fill of DPF and EGR problems. He's got a 2008 truck he just barely purchased used. Using it to tend to the herd of cows and travelling dirt roads and slow travel is plugging up the DPF filter constantly. So he's ask if I would do the delete for him. Now I need to pull the knowledge from other in the forum for part suppliers and what part I need for this project. What tuner that works the best for this application. I'm all eyes...

Optimal gearing would place you around 1,800 to 2,000 at highway speed for best results. Another way is the best gear ratio will produce lower EGT's. But the wrong ratio either too low or too high will increase EGT's.