Mopar1973Man

Do keep in mind DOR has a very long wait for products. So be sure to measure and get things in order before ordering. Expect 6 month or longer sometimes for parts. Let's see a picture of the truck...

What has to occur is the fuel sprayed in a fine mist that the compression heat can covert from liquid to vapor to go BOOM! so yes spray pattern and quality has a bit to do withi it. Another one that can impact the MPG's is valve lash and compression. If the rings are getting weak and excessive blow by starts occuring then power is lost around the rings. Valve lash could do the same thing too being valves will open later typically because of wear of the valvetrain parts. I know you have low mileage on this but I'm now listing all the different things I can think off.

Rebuilt? So the nozzles what was the quality of the spray? So did the nozzles and pintles get changed in the rebuild? Just because the change a shim on the spring doesn't change the spray quality replacment of the nozzle and pintle will. So you can see how little there is to the injectors. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/15-how-to-clean-your-injectors

I still tend to look at the injectors. Being the spray pattern is poor then the atomized fuel will not burn clean. If the pop pressure is low then the spray isn't as fine and the timing ends up being advanced. I would see if you can hook up with a 12V owner here and see if you can swap injectors with some for testing purpose.

Might work better to place a classified ad and post pictures. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/

That's the thing get a ECM from a like model truck and the test will work just fine but get a different model then you end up with errors for cam sensor possibly.

Still in all like I told my neighbor if it doesn't re-activate they will replace it for FREE. So it doesn't matter. Yeah we still got a Radio Shack up here its the local cell store.

(10 years ago roughly) Well I got to a story to tell. About 10 years ago I was over a friend house. He was digging through a drawer in the kitchen looking for something and he spun around... "Hey you need a cell phone take this one." At the time I wasn't a big cell phone fan but for free why not? So I grabbed the cell phone and charger cord. In the next few days I go out and bought some time for it and tried to active the phone. Come to find out it can't be done. So I called TracFone and they told me the phone was too old and would have to be replaced for FREE. Wow! So I gladly boxed up the old phone and mailed it back to TracFone and within about 2 weeks go my new cell phone. It was a nice LG phone and served me well for over 10 year now. In the last year or so I upgrade to a new LG phone again. (Yesterday) My neighbor comes over as always bringing my mail up from the mailbox. He start telling about buying a cell phone and it was a Jitterbug. How he spent $100 on the phone and within hours got charged a activation fees as well to he credit card. Not to mention spending over 2 hours in New Meadows, ID trying to activate something that does not work on our cell towers. So I told him about my cheap $29 LG TracFone and suggest he just make a run to the local Radio Shack in McCall, ID. Well I parted way with him and.... Thought a second... That right that old LG TracFone is in my desk drawer. So I whistle to him... Hang on a second. I ran into the house and and grab the phone, the house charger and the car charger. I handed it over to him and he was shocked. "What do I owe you for this?" I told him, "Nothing. I just paying it forward. I never paid for the first one so I can't charge you for this..."

Come on guys and gals I see all these new people registering post your pics...

Look closely at the seat and the screw part. Carefully loosen the screw shaft so it can spin. You might want to help it out with a little lube too. Very common for seat motors to burn up. Matter of fact I've got a old seat frame I save from the dump for repairing the 1996 Dodge power seats some day. I've also got forward and back slide but the tilt is working on one side. I guess I know what my future project is going to be...

Oh my gawd... I've been down that path too. When EPA started pushing for water based paints we done that too. What a mess...

PCM, ECM and VP44 is self grounded through the passenger battery cable adding extra grounds does nothing. No. It suppose to check disconnected. The reason for some of these test is to check for shorts to ground. So it should show infinite. Suggestion is to see if you have any friends or members here with a ECM you cam barrow for a quick test. Might drop a pin on the member map and see who is around you. I still will not suggest replacement of the ECM there is still not enough to convince me its it. Now if you swap ECM's and the problem goes away then I would highly suggest it. Just make sure to find a like model truck to swap with. I think Whitelightning is a early 24V...

That why I'm willing to provide the know how. Just up to you to get the work done. Funny thing is this morning I get to do a o-ring kit on a Ford diesel and get him ready to head back to North Dakota. Can of UV dye is rather cheap and black light flashlight is cheap too. Here is where the money get spent I will admit the manifold gauges and vacuum pump can get you for about $250 to $300 depending on brand. Everything else is standard hand tools except the the collar to release the couplings. Those are also fairly cheap at a part house. If you got that book you have all the knowledge you need to get the job done...

That is what is so fun about this group you can pick on them. We are all one big happy family of Dodge guys. Take the time ask plenty of questions and you might even give me a call so time.

So you hot wired the Vp44 and got the same results. Ok. So that does point to mechanical issues.

Right now we don't even have one smoking gun to a possible need of a ECM so let that slide for now. I will not even suggest a high dollar part before finding two tests that condemn that device.

Now he's got a shiny turbo but a broken engine. We still don't know what went wrong.

Ok. Have you replaced the crank sensor? If not I would start there first. If the code is still coming even with a new crank sensor then I would run this test in the above link. Even I'm a bit confused on step 8. How can measuring the ohms between the wire and ground determine if the ECM is bad if the ECM isn't even in the circuit. But this is what can out of the book.

Ok... Go back to your hole... (Just kidding!) It's always nice to put faces and name together. I funny how small groups of people are placing there pin on the member map. Then calling around and gathering up into group to hang out or help out.

Oh! I see, you didn't want to show off your custom ventilated dash right?

Heck at that rate if Russ went to Oregon I would have to follow the last bit of the trip to give you hand I guess... I really doubt Russ would do a cross country haul for a repair.

Or you could be like a local here that kept dumping can after can into the system. Every spring its 3 cans of freon in 5 years at about $11 a can totals out at $165 in freon. But it only took a simple $10 o-ring kit to fix and no longer leaking. So is it worth tracking down? Sure it is when a o-ring kits are cheap and you don't have to continue the cycle of throwing money out the window.

Tell her to slow down the fuel last longer at slower speeds... Also won't cost you a speed ticket either.

No kidding we are suppose to take your word for this??? Break out the camera and show us.

Sorry to hear that Russ... Like John said hopefully you find other way to enjoy life with your progressing MS problems.