Mopar1973Man

Take a vacuum hand pump and put a good vacuum on one port at a time and watch and see if the vacuum falls if so the diaphragm is leaking.

Well good at least the ECM appears to be working correctly then that means one of the errors most likely is the cause of the limp mode.

Yea...

Ouch. The limited pedal worries me. That typically points to ECM issues. Could you do a AC voltage test on your alternator? Basically just use a good quality digital volt meter and measure the voltage at the BATT terminal on the alternator. If the voltage is over 0.1 AC volts then the alternator failed. How about the Wait To Start light? Does it come on instantly or does it lag a few seconds? Hot start is typically excessive fuel pressure at start up. Check your cranking pressure it should be bouncing between 7-12 PSI roughly. Anything higher causes hard starting.

You might have to separate the plug and add some di-electric grease and socket it 3 times and then snug the screw back up. That should help gain your connection.

I guess you going to measure the lift of each push rod correct?

P0216 code is going to be a wear issue code. The timing piston is most likely wore out and seized up. It could be low fuel pressure issues too but most of the time is the wear issue.

I found out on my 1996 Dodge the CAD unit had a vacuum leak in the diaphragm. So this made it weak to pull in both directions and typically had lag. I replace mine the problems are gone no issues. The NAPA vacuum motor was like $90 bucks but came as a full rebuild kit for that CAD unit.

The wild oil pressure reading tend to lead down the ECM path. But the common thing like a whole list of lo or hi volt codes. Typically the coolant gauge goes full swing and trips the check engine light and check gage light. Random revving of the engine and dead pedal.

Everyone here has good suggestions. Like myself I've got the same problem coming too. But I've got stainless steel body panels. So eventually I'll have to deal with my body panels too.

ECM is in direct control of the lift pump there is no relays for it. But if you using a after market fuel system like AirDog, Raptor or FASS then they all have a trigger relay for the fuel pump. Is the fuel pump under warranty yet? I would say look at returning the pump for warranty if so. If not I would open the pump up and inspect for damage parts.

Where is the fuel pressure sensor for your EV2's installed at? Most make the mistake of installing right at the VP44. Even with the snubber on it will still destroy the sensor. Like I done to resolve this I got mine remote mounted on the fender to give the water hammer distance to fade to the gauge. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/458-electric-fuel-pressure-gauges

Most likely not the APPS sensor or MAP sensor. You can unhook both and it should idle normally without them. Would be a good idea to get the codes though it gives more clues. I'm going to have to say it most likely injectors acting up. As they tend to age and wear they get pissy and pop at a much lower pop pressure. So I would consider having the injectors pulled and pop tested. A matter of fact my RV275's injectors failed the same way random misfire at idle fully warmed and under load it goes away. But on a pop test stand the pop pressure was as low as 240 bar way below 310 bar it suppose to be. Then as they start to pop they just piss a stream of fuel no atomization at all then POP! they would atomize the last bit. But diesel engines can burn liquid fuel it has to be in a atomize form so the cylinder heat can covert the liquid mist to a vapor then it burns.

Near failing state... Normal is 0.01 to 0.02 Volts AC Limit 0.1 Volts AC

Also if your get the PacBrake lock up controller it will help with this but you need to modify the valve body to get 2nd gear lock up other than that all you get is 3rd and 4th gear lockup.

Still hunt for solution or test so I'll keep asking around too.

Yeah... You might post up your signature and list your vehicles in the garage area too. Welcome to the site.

I was talking on the phone to another gent and mention your issue and he suggested doing the Blue Chip hot wire trick and see if the ECM is creating this issue maybe? Because this would be just the VP44 by itself no other computer or electronics to fool with it.

Codes might give a clue to why the pump isn't coming on. As for the fuel pump it should have a fuel pump relay in the PDC under the hood. ASD relay might shut down something because of another issue. I'm not saying ASD is the cause directly but the PCM sense something and shut it all down. Hence looking for codes.

Being your going for rubber flooring make sure to lift the flooring and check for moisture and dry it out from time to time. Most people tend to love the idea of just hosing the mud and mess out but you have to remember your putting water below the rubber liner to so make sure to dry it out. Even the guys that just broom or brush the floor clean in the winter months with all the snow and ice brings lots of moisture so again make sure to dry it out. A lot of guys up here opted for rubber flooring and they tend to have the worse failures of cab floors rusting out and looking like the Flintstone's...

Error codes? Fuel pressure at the rail with the key cycled on?

I don't see why not?

Come to Idaho you can listen all you want...

Correct the external regulator uses air temperature for charging values instead of the PCM using the battery temperature. So the PCM would be a milder charging voltage. What happens is a battery will sulphate some over time and the sulphated lead will shed off the plates and pile up over time creating a mild short in one or more cells. As this happens the battery tends to get warmer as it charged. So batteries tend to get gassy and go dry which is even worse. But its also good to over charge you batteries once a month to deal with the sulphated plates. The over charging tend to recondition the plates some. How you charge and discharge your batteries will determine how long they last. Like my OE Batteries lasted 10 years.

Even running 3" exhaust there is very little loss of performance being my cruising boost pressure is typically 1-2 PSI at 55 MPH or 4-5 PSI at 65 MPH.