Mopar1973Man

Keep use posted on any effects it might have on that cat... I'm very curious of the results.

I'm sorry to say you look back at old school cars back in the day and I use to run 160*F and 180*F thermostat in my Dodge Charger. Now my 96 Dodge is a 195*F thermostat and the 02 Cummins 190*F. But the technology of the engines, oils, etc all have improved and making things tighter and lasting longer. Heck look at my 73 Charger it was wore out at 100k miles and now look at the 96 its 159k miles and still rolling strong. As for thermostats typically the marked number on it is the opening temperature but usually in about 10-15*F more degrees its fully open. I think it more about proper operating temperatures than when the thermostat opens or is wide open. As long as the engine is in operating temperature which is typically above the stock thermostat rating, that's what matters.

Here is the issue most PPD (pour point depressants) are solvent based chemicals so yes adding oil is going to help over come it to a point kind of like having diesel fuel in your oil. I don't suggest adding much over 1 oz per gallon because as the fuel cools the fuel gets thicker and put more strain on the VP44. I see Rancherman is at 1.5 to 2 ounces that would make me squirm. Being that you want to keep roughly 2 to 5 cSt of fuel viscosity and 2 cycle oil can be upwards of 40 cSt. TFaoro I also believe if you add enough 2 cycle oil you could over come the pour point / cloud point issues but at what point does the fuel become to thick to properly pump and atomize in cold weather? Hence what was happening to waste oil burning people trying to burn high volumes and wiping out the pump. (Breaking the rotor free).

Like so many people over on CF tend to have blinder on concerning injector life span and performance. The assume as long as the truck is running that the injectors are not the issue. But like you found out there was possibly a compression leak past #4 without the copper shim as well as just old school 5 hole nozzles.

Cold air and cold coolant are counter productive to a diesel engine. You need enough heat energy to convert atomized diesel fuel to a vapor then ignite the fuel. If its too cold then it lags in conversion and then to ignition. So with the colder temps you got to run higher cetane fuels but high cetane fuels are lower in BTU's. So if you run warm air intake (100-140*F) and warm coolant (190*F or 200*F thermostat) then you should gain back MPG some. The rest is driving style and how fast you drive.

Here is what mine look like paint vs. sticker. Passenger side painted. Driver side sticker. Yes. My truck needs a wash bad...

I'm also running 190*F here. Highly NOT suggested to run 180*F this will reduce the efficiency of the engine. Diesel engines require a certain amount of heat to properly function. 200*F themostat from what I've heard so far will will run you coolant temperature about 197-202*F and bring slightly higher IAT temperatures too which you want to aim for about 100-140*F worth of IAT for good MPG's.

As far as what I understand of Edge products yes it does get more aggressive timing higher the level.

I've got one repainted. It's done in black paint. The other side is a decal.

Fuel Temp was at +44*F from a unheated shop. Less than 3 miles from home. Current temp when I left the house was like +27*F or so. Fuel pressure sender is on the fender. (Needled and Snubbered) If it was a gelling issues it should of happen in New Meadows at -3*F temperature where it ran just fine.

One ounce of oil for every one gallon of fuel. (128:1 ratio).

Actually look at the bottle most 2 cycle oil has a pour point of at least -40*F. Then snowmobile 2 cycle oil has pour point of at least -50*F so if normal #2 winterized diesel is round -20*F then 2 cycle oil will add but not sure how much... Might read up on PPD (Pour Point Depressants) and some of chemicals.

Some will debate that... Like you could do Opti-lube diesel additive which scores better and take less. But the price is a bit higher than 2 cycle oil but you can treat more diesel fuel. My problem is no one sells it locally and has to be freighted here. To much trouble for one product. I've got lots of 2 cycle engine so 2 cycle oil is required here at the house for weed wackers and chainsaws. But yes I'll ask any questions...

because they negate each other. 2 Cycle oil is a cetane reducer PS is a cetane booster 2 Cycle oil is a lubricity enhancer (low HFRR) PS is more of a injector cleaner (high HFRR) So after adding both you get basically nothing.

Kind of like saying you have increase wear from starting the engine without oil pressure. These truck start and run the first few seconds without oil pressure typically and go a long ways. So the VP44 is flooded with fuel for the parts I really don't think wear is a issue till its ran for a period of time without pressure.

As for tuning the pistons I use fine grade sand paper like 450-600 grit till its smooth enough fall back in easy WITHOUT the seals.

No. When the truck cold I typically hold my boost down below 10 PSI till it warms up. As for today it didn't do it at all. I fired up and left towards Riggins, ID and on issues at all.

Gotta point there. But its so rare for my truck to even do quirky things... Only I do quirky things...

I've got a dog like that... I just figure I'd toss it out there and see if anyone else had something like it.

I tend to agree to use a Holset kit as well. Even though you can get cheaper kits off Ebay and web not worth it to cut corners on quality. Personally I would just get a new gasket most likely doesn't cost much but why deal with a good rebuild and possibly have to change a manifold gasket because you cut corners again. Might as well get a gasket kit (manifold gasket, oil-return gasket, and oil o-ring for the feed line).

The key on pulse is not required. But at cranking pressure should be 7-12 PSI for good starting. Then after starting it should be 14-20 PSI after starting. So the relay trick would resolve a ECM lift pump controller. But as for 25 bump prime would be gone as for the safety shut down. But I know some people have damaged ECM and using wiper fuse to power the lift pump this would get you closer to the original design just missing a few things. I'm sure with a bit a time you could add a push button switch to give your 25 second lift pump prime set up.

Not hard a 2x4 and a bit of compressed air. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/78-brake-fluid-change

Oh I see a neat trick with that. Using a 5 pin relay you could trigger the fuelabs from the starter solenoid to be half rate during cranking and full rate at run position. Then you can rid the entire ECM control if need be. But remember the ECM safety of shut down after lose of tach signal will not occur.

Not that I know of zero error codes. Very quiet engine like usual. No excessive timing rattle.

I didn't go to Canada... Oregon. https://goo.gl/maps/GaiuR Typically step over to Oregon for shopping because there is no sales tax. No fuel starvation. Holding a steady 17 PSI. This was down around 1,500 RPMs. Like I said after warming up it never did it again. started at about 27*F here by the time I hit New Meadows, ID it was -3*F and been below the 32*F freeze mark all day. Even running 55-60 MPH through New Meadows with that -3*F temps not a peep out of the truck. Just humming along. I'll see what happens tomorrow. I gotta get fuel would you believe it it was more expensive in the big city than its back home. nearly $3 dollar a gallon for diesel but here in Riggins, ID its 2.539 nearly 50 cents less. So I limped home and just barely above tripping the low fuel light at 1/8 of tank. Even with the trip I managed 18.8 MPG for running 65 MPH most of the day in near zero temps most of the way. So as for the problem I'll see in the morning...