Mopar1973Man

Trust me... If I find any secrets I will gladly post all of right here.

You'd figure after 16 years someone would of fixed these mysteries. But why invest in a obsolete technology since common rail came out. As for pressures the vane pump goes directly to the rotor in those ports IIRC. As for the body of the pump its at fuel pressure level. So that would be you middle pressure from the vane to the rotor head.

Another thought on this just past... Now take notice the 3 ports are screens assume the screen are plugged up with debris. Then place a vacuum on the chamber. Now could you see the plastic flexing downward into the chamber till it broke or cracked on the center hub.

I think I found the answer on this. While taking my morning shower I was thinking about that plastic backing. We all assume there is pressure there because most of us use a fuel pressure gauge. Let's assume the owner doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge and a bad fuel filter. Now the only time that plastic will flex is under a VACUUM. The plastic is not glued to the steel. So if there is a vacuum present it would pull the hub inwards and crush against the inner o-ring till it deformed and cracked. Sound about right?

That's what I don't understand that disc is on the back of the rotor assembly. It has no connection with timing piston. Maybe hydraulic it might be connect dumping the pressure back in the body of the pump. I'd have to pull my pump off the shelf and pull it apart again. But the steel plate is held in by 1 snap ring and has 2 o-ring seals. The plastic can't flex with steel backing it. Like photo above I wonder about the crack like it was force or pried again from the center hub. Improper assembly? Because if you got a steel disc backing the plastic there is no way to flex the plastic. But being the crack is larger at the center hole going to the outer diameter this seem to me from prying out.

I'll have to ask the local propane guy what the prices are some time.

Another thing you can do is contact the store owner and find out what the specs of the fuel are. It's a Hazardous Material there should be a specification of pour point, cloud point for most fuels. Just most people don't give a rats about these numbers. Strange though I found some places in Idaho that do post the numbers up. Being that most fuel are blend when loading the truck some much know what the pour point and cloud points and and should have a receipt of the shipment.

If you need a boost in cloud point add a product but don't get mindless and continue to add the product to long or too much. Make sure measure out what your doing. Cetane is a good thing for dead cold starts. But once the engine is running high cetane in no longer needed. More a less a trade off easier starting higher cetane. Better MPG's lower cetane.

Outer plastic? Majority of it a steel disc. You can see my damage from prying it out.

I'm also straight piped in the main house. But my problem is my chimney is so long from being a 2 story house that the tip of the chimney is known to build some creosote because of it's length. But What I do is run the stove good and hard twice a day and get the pyrometer up to 1,600 or so and then let it settle back down for the day or night.

What's the cause of the crack is my question?

I still shake my head. Harden steel disc held in by 1 snap ring. Then sealed with 2 o-rings one outer and one inner. Still in all the metal should protect the plastic from flexing. The metal will not flex at all I've tried.

Here you go. This is a harden steel plate with a plastic cover.

Question is was the turbo spun balanced again after the rebuild?

1 point for me... LOL

Typically where you drag your tail across the seat.

But for the larger fuses in the PDC you can do that the only way to test is to pull them out and ohm test each one.

Walmart Or Autozone Here...

Check the fuses under the hood. They are best checked with a Ohm meter because a lot of times it really tough to see blown fuses.

At any time there should be vacuum on one side or the other. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/39-transmission-systems/80-central-axle-disconnect-cad-system-troubleshooting

Just for other to watch here...Wonderful video I watch about 15 minutes of it and he's right on the ball. I'll watch more later.

I would look into the turbo and intercooler being you are using oil.

4 ways of killing a VP44... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements

Inspect your turbo and intercooler. Check your oil level. CCD bus issues. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

AH64ID what do you think about the whole BB idea?