Mopar1973Man

I PMed him the link.

Slowly coming together.

I would pull the turbo from the truck. Then pull the wastegate motor off and then heat the casting around the wastegate shaft with a propane torch. Then using penetrating oil and small hammer tapping the arm in opening directing. Work a little at a time both directions using heat, oil, and impact.

Weight police. No I'm meant the people with tire failures. When you ask if they scaled ever most will answer "No." then when they do scale the trailer axle weight is typically over the tire capacity. But yeah I know the weight police you talk about too that scream about GVWR capacities. I'm speaking about tire capacities at stated pressure. I remember ISX sayin something about wheel and tire testing in a pass thread too... I wish I could find it.

I guess its time to file a complaint to the manager of the store.

You might want to peek over the RV sites. It will surprise how many people over load a RV and wonder why the tires are popping like popcorn. Most RV owners tend to inflate to max on the side wall. Common out here to see utility trailers over loaded with firewood and tires blown out. Industrial trailers a bit different than a smaller Load Range C or D tire on a utility trailer. Kind of like my utility trailer Load Range C's rated for 50 PSI I typically run 40 PSI. Because I've never gotten to squeeze the tires down flat faced much. Even with full loads of firewood. But still no tire failures. Or like my RV with Load Range D's inflated to 65 PSI. But I know the scaled weight of 8,020#. But still in all you should run within the designed limits of the tire for longevity.

Most tire failures are because people tow at excessive speeds. There is very few ST tires that are rated for over 65 MPH. Like with my trailers (utility and RV) I never tow faster than 55-60 MPH and never had a tire issue. I know both trailers have tires rated for MAX speed of 65 MPH. But how long do you expect a tire to last right at RED LINE? Just like saying your going to run your engine at red line and not expect it to throw parts. Second problem is over loading the ST tire with too much weight. Third problem is under-inflating a ST tire.

I like using this little spreadsheet it works awesome to figure out which vehicle is cheaper to drive. I just plug in the MPG and fuel prices and it figures out which vehicle is the cheapest for the job. Towing or empty. Like with today prices the 1996 Dodge Ram is cheaper to drive with current MPG numbers used.

I always get excellent service from my local Napa stores. they all know me by name and I get to use Lindy's account and gain a small discount for all my parts. Most of the time I hit them with odd parts and we have a understanding. Give counter guys the vehicle information, what part your looking for, if they can't find it right then they will call you back with a answer. Ford products tend to be the weirdest vehicles rarely in stock and most need to be custom order from the dealer.

There was old articles on CF from long ago people plugging up there oil cooling nozzles with bits of plastic, foil seals from the bottles, and other weird things killed engines. I really don't like pre-loading filters with oil through the center hole.

http://www.shallowsky.com/alignment.html

Did you get the bracket?

Maybe you need a new job. Funny I've got everything but the 2 post lift at home. But at work I've got the 2 post lift rated for 9,000 pounds.

Wastegate barely even moves really. I think in one of ISX video in the 12 valve forum there is a video of him showing the movement.

I had that exact issue was my stock air box was passing dust. The way I found it was spray the lid with WD40 then go out and run for a day on the dusty roads. Then when you get back home wipe the lid off with a clean paper towel if the towel is dirty then the box is shot and BHAF is suggested.

I typically use high temp grease designed for this purpose.

Darn keyboard. My laptop is prone to doing that from time to time. (Edited and corrected!)

As for the fuel temp information is from the VP44. There is the tone wheel and the fuel temperature sensor inside the pump.

Wonder about the failure problems all together. I'm still using the factory tee after 12 years and not had a leak at the tee yet. I will most likely just replace with proper factor seals and continue on.

Lets say the filter minder is measured in inches of water column. If you ever do this test you understand the restriction level. No that said the paper BHAF never will move the filter minder with engines all the way up to 600 HP that I know of. So the BHAF restriction is very very small if anything.

Ok. From what I've heard on this subject is the valve stem type are common to be stolen in parking lots. Only takes a few seconds for a punk kid to steal all you pressure caps.

Ok. Would you buy a washable oil filter? Why?

Just drop more fuel and make you move faster yet.

From what I know is its like a piece of vacuum line sliced in thin pieces. But the problem is the ID and OD size requirement. I heard you can buy it by the foot but expensive.