Mopar1973Man

As long as you making one change at a time and measuring each change. Then yes.

Like both Yankneck696 and myself have called Pureflow about this and heard all the acknowledgements of the issues. But I think its a matter of too little too late.

Comparing mine from 2006 to current. * Mounting brackets are now plastic compare to steel in the past. * Wingnuts is news to me but my old 2006 is all Nyloc and harden bolts (grade 5 I think). * Plumbing is quick connect and pre-cut. My old system gave you the fittings and a roll of hose. This made it nice for custom installs.

Sad... I typically suggest buying new so at least you get manufacture support and warranty on your new toy.

Mine happened yesterday and today... Maybe tomorrow will be a better day.

Well even mine feels fine from year to year but I know if I don't change it every 30k miles it tend to whine in the cold of the winters. Just like engine oil the power steering fluid (or ATF in this case) has to lubricate the pump and parts and withstand heating and cooling of the fluid eventually it does break down and require changing.

Power steering fluid could be... But typically it should whine when you pulling against the steering wouldn't it? But if it been quite some time I tend to agree with AH64ID and just say change it.

Sad to say most here will suggest you look towards FASS now being AirDog have lost there quality in the pumps. Seems like you here of constant issues with AirDogs now and most are looking for other options like FASS or FuelBoss (mechanical pump).

I've done exactly that for 10 years without a single leak in the cab. So I'm sure with the proper setup and routing of your tubing you can get that kind of service and more. From what I can figure out on isolators they typically end up taking the full hit of the water hammer pulse constantly flexing the diaphragm/piston till it ruptures or till the coolant leaks out. I've not found anyone yet that made any kind of long term head way with isolator installed with a mechanical gauge.

Welcome to the family. Make sure to ask plenty of questions. No dumb questions here and most people here will dig up any information you need. You should not get "Use the search function" or "Google it" for answers... So pull up a comfy chair, cup of hot coffee and get to reading. If anything you don't understand please ask!

During reloading with gear fluid I suggest you load the diff completely full till its running out. The find a large area and do several tight figure eights. Then check your level again. I typically load mine till the fluid runs out the hole slightly. Then checking fluids is really easy. Loosen the plug, tip, if fluid runs out its full, tighten.

Edge EZ have had issues with the circuit boards corroding and shorting out from water / moisture problems.

Ok... Good I just wanted to verify that fact. Way too many people just leave it sit and rev the engine up with a heavy foot. But now you also need to address the pressure fail. 3-5 PSI is more of a typical span of pressure fall. 8-10 PSI is rather scary. Like myself with winter weather I'm seeing 2-3 PSI drop in the cold.

Here is a little article I made up for electric fuel pressure gauges. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/458-electric-fuel-pressure-gauges

Oh my... Heavy amount of snow and now serious warm up. Bad Deal...

If is a belt pulley issue just pull the belt off and hand test each pulley you'll know if you found a bad bearing.

I have to ask is this 2,000 RPM's in neutral or actually rolling on the pavement?

I tend to agree I would park the truck till you can get at least 10 PSI on the highway. Now I would be looking at checking the power to the lift pump and be sure its a good 12V when the truck is running. Then check the Edge Juice fuel pressure sender against a mechanical gauge. Really common for electric gauge sender to get damaged from water hammer. Mechanical gauge at this point would be your friend. If the pump is still running and not producing then I would replace it under warranty.

Now we are putting faces to the names now.

I typically grab a pair of vise grip needle nose clamp off the supply hose. Then when done just release. Then bump the starter and re-prime the system. Nothing fancy.

Bad diode? Check you AC noise levels just for the sake of tracking it down.

Like YabbaDoo pointed out there are more than just Guys here there are a few ladies too. Like YabbaDoo and BluePine are the two ladies I can think of right now.

That was cool that you all got together...

Not voltage but the IVS has to be ground on the idle pin.

Works on auto and manuals transmissions just fine. Remote starter doesn't hook to the IAT or ECT sensors. It doesn't press the brake pedal nor the throttle. So I also call BS on the dealer. You need to find a dealer that is more intelligent.