Mopar1973Man

Measure the AC output with the trailer plugged in and see...

I guess it's one to put in the notebook...

I had to go read... http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

Ok another test run... This is after a run to town and left idling when I returned. Outside Temperature: 98*F Fuel tank Temperature: 85*F AirDog Filter Temperature: 85*F Stock Filter Housing Temperature: 98*F VP44 Inlet: 101*F VP44 Overflow: 130*F VP44 Case: 130*F After 10 minutes of being shut off... VP44 case 130*F. I'll try again tomorrow...

Myself I've been using Mobil products from the the local oil provider. Mobil 15w-40 in the diesel, Mobil 10w-30 in the gasoline stuff. I see things from a different perspective. As long as the oil meets or exceeds the requirement it should really matter on the brand name a whole lot. Like for our diesels they require CI-4 15w-40 for oil. Then today the current oil is CJ-4. Might have to switch up to lighter viscosity for the super cold northern states. So all the battles about synthetics and petroleum, brand names, etc. just doesn't mean a whole lot as long as the grade and viscosity is correct you should have much problems.

That's the first I've heard that...

Alternator...

Well I've gotta work in the morning... Hang in there...

As long as you fuel tank is 1/2 or better it will take quite a long time to heat the fuel. I'm going to do another pass of heat test tomorrow. I had a short day at work being there was a lack of parts so I was sent home early. I wanted to to do a afternoon run at the heat of the day. Morning run was still quite cool out in the morning. So hang in there another go is happening tomorrow.

Here is what I got. Fired up this morning drove 14 miles to work. Parked the truck talked with the Boss man (Lindy) for about 10 minutes grab the IR gun. Measured about 140*F case temp. Fired up the engine in under 60 seconds the case dropped to 75*F or so. The overflow valve took a few seconds longer to drop the temp but it was washing the heat out rapidly. Yes I had the IR gun very close to the fitting and case. Also idle pressure currently is 16.5 PSI. Also the VP44 PSG electronics can with stand a lot of heat in storage (non-running) but if I can flush the heat out in under 60 seconds I'm not worried on bit.

Here is food for thought... How many times have you seen a P0168 code (VP44 Over heat code) on the any of the Dodge Cummins forums? Here is a search for it... https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=P0168&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Southbend... Make sure to pay attention to the throw-out bearing fork/lever. It can be reversed and won't work properly. Make sure to add the shim to the ball stud as supplied. On assembly make sure the throw bearing is up in the sleeve of the input shaft.

Took a day off to get my ears lowered and take care of business stuff for the web site here.

Well since the diesel truck is out I might take it to work tomorrow and do some sampling of numbers for the site.

9mm Star (on hip) and a prayer book (in center console). Close enough.

Edge Juice or Quadzilla adrenaline can measure fuel temps. As for measuring inlet and outlet temps I don't have any means too. Now I bet if someone really wanted to they could contact Eric @ Vulcan Performance and find some plumbing pieces for sensors to be places in the inlet and outlet of the VP44. On second thought I do have access to a infrared temp gun...

The outer shell is not true temperature. The bottom plate towards the fuel is actual temperature being the PSG is mounted to the fuel side. This is why any top mounted devices tend to be poor at best because transferring heat by air gap is slow. Aluminum, circuit board, air gap, plastic cover, aluminum cover again.

1/2 Gallon of drink water 1 MRE 1 Harbor Frieght pack of fuses (mini size) 1 Harbor Frieght pack of fuses (Standard size) 1 Windshield shade 1 Roll of toilet paper 1 Box of kleenex 1 fuel filter (AirDog) 1 Blanket (Dog's Blanket but could be used to keep you warm on a cold day) 1 first aid kit Behind driver seat (SAR's pack) 1 MRE 1 bag of hard candy 1/2 gallon of drinking water 1 sweat shirt jacket (safety yellow / reflective) 1 over coat (safety yellow / reflective) 1 poncho (cammo) 1 first aid kit 1 multi-tool 1 Plastic tube full of kitchen matches 1 Cigarette lighter 1 Magnesium and flint 1 Pair of Socks 1 Pair of gloves 1 cold weather cap You'll notice there is very little tools or parts carried in my truck. But now you see I worry more about my personal survival more so than the truck. At least I can abandon the truck and walk to safety. Remember I'm where there is no cell service and even limited radio signals at times. So far I've walked out the woods twice. Once when the PCM failed on the 96 Dodge walked about 4 miles. Then second time I got my 02 stuck in soft ground fully loaded with firewood and walked over 7 miles. Both times I've been lucky. Next time might not be as lucky and be happy I've got the SAR's bag behind my driver seat. As a matter of fact you can see my SAR's bag in my Avatar...

Take notice to the wiring diagram. Upper right corner is the fuel heater. Neither am I but all I can do is chuck out the conditions and what I don't into the pile and see if brings more information to the table. IAT fooling has nothing to do with fuel temps the only thing I made sure of is 14+ PSI fuel pressure. As long as the overflow valve is open return flow will occur. OVERFLOW VALVE DESCRIPTION The overflow valve is located on the side of the injection pump (Fig. 58). It is also used to connect the fuel return line (banjo fitting) to the fuel injection pump. OPERATION Fuel volume from the fuel transfer (lift) pump will always provide more fuel than the fuel injection pump requires. The overflow valve (a check valve) is used to route excess fuel through the fuel return line and back to the fuel tank. Approximately 70% of supplied fuel is returned to the fuel tank. The valve opens at approximately 97 kPa (14 psi). If the check valve within the assembly is sticking open, fuel drainage of the injection pump could cause hard starting. So with the bold RED statement keeping fuel pressure up above 14 PSI will ensure the flow is continued. So now the fuel tank is your radiator/cooler and with a full tank of fuel it can absorb a large amount of heat before the tank warms up.

I stand corrected W&F... Thank you.

Katoom I've got to make you think. Why is it I have summer temperatures of 105-115*F here in Idaho and have absolutely no issues with fuel cooking the VP44? I have no special coolers on my VP44. No blowers, heat sinks, coolers, radiators, etc. Nothing... The only change to the fuel system is AirDog 150 that's it. It not that my truck get light duty either I tow on grades as steep as 16%. Haul either a utility trailer or my RV. Still all done in 105-115*F temperatures. This VP44 has 185k miles and still going strong.

Fuel heater is not controlled by VP44 fuel temp sensor nor the IAT. It's thermostatically controlled within the fuel filter housing. From the FSM... FUEL HEATER DESCRIPTION The fuel heater assembly is located on the side of the fuel filter housing (Fig. 9). The heater/element assembly is equipped with a temperature sensor (thermostat) that senses fuel temperature. This sensor is attached to the fuel heater/element assembly. OPERATION The fuel heater is used to prevent diesel fuel from waxing during cold weather operation. When the temperature is below 45 Ϯ8 degrees F, the temperature sensor allows current to flow to the heater element warming the fuel. When the temperature is above 75 Ϯ8 degrees F, the sensor stops current flow to the heater element. Battery voltage to operate the fuel heater element is supplied from the ignition switch and through the fuel heater relay. Also refer to Fuel Heater Relay. The fuel heater element and fuel heater relay are not computer controlled. The heater element operates on 12 volts, 300 watts at 0 degrees F.

No. The engine temperature will only slightly rise at 1,200*F going up a grade. I typically run 4th gear at 53-55 MPH holding 1,100-1,200*F and engine coolant temperature will only slightly rise like 205*F for me. Pyrometer is the safest bet for monitoring cylinder/exhaust temperatures.

Well I guess now you can have one of the professionals now build it right.

Take a peek under about a 2006 or so Duramax and see how they made there fuel cooler but you won't be happy. It will work but if you drive in the mud at all it will plug the cooler up. Topic split for you...