Dieselfuture

I think it's safe to say you got every penny out of them. But I believe it's time for you to change them out to be on a safe side.

I know that it can be a pain to hit menu button on top left corner of screen so wanted to share this. I got this s6 that has an older software on it and when I downloaded the app 1.9.40 from download section my phone also has a larger circle with 3 buttons on it in bottom left that is much easier to touch. Now I don't know if its my phone that does this or something else, but on my other s6 that is up to date with same app I only have the smaller menu button top left that is hard to excess.

A good quality non greaseable joints like Spicer has very good seals that don't let grease out and water in. They usually last over 100k, but if you want to grease yours at least every 10k or if you've been through water or even power washed it where high pressure water can get behind seals then get greaseable ones. If you look at the difference yourself when you're at the shop you'll know. Ether one will work fine imo, it was just a recommendation to go with non greaseable if you mostly stay on roads, sure off road you're probably better of with greaseable. Shop better know what size of joints to put in, but going of my memory front should be 1350, and rear 1410 which is only wider and not bigger, caps are same size. Next time I'm going to be working on my rear drive shaft I will have them built me one from aluminum tube with 1480 and a new yokes. Front not sure yet.

You guys both have a good point, I'll take a machine and some 134 and few beers.

I didn't think air line would work ether when I seen people use it, but after some research I did it myself 1/8" and as long as it's away from anything that can melt it it works great, I even used quick push in connectors, one screwed right on the back side of the gauge and the other in my brass T (one male one female). I ran it inside a 1/2" fuel line from under the hood to the gauge and it slipped perfectly over the quick connect fitting on the guage, so if plastic line ever breaks it will leak outside the firewall, plus I'm using niddle valve that is just cracked open so even if it did Leak it would be a very small drip.

I believe u joints are 1350 not sure on ball and pin kit, I would use non greaseable Spicer joints as they are stronger and don't need the maintenance unlike greaseable they tend to lose grease and let water in and make a mess. Make sure you get a new strap kit and clean yoke really good, where caps sit in and I even took a file and lightly went over the yoke surface where straps bolt on. Also if you do it yourself clean all the groves for snap rings so when you assemble it back and smak joints towards clips it doesn't bind. Hard to explain but you'll figure it out. Sometimes it works out great and other times I had to take it in to balance. Mark everything so it goes back same way.

It will cycle a lot if system is under charged. You can get a vacuum pump with gauges and save in future ac fixes, instead of paying someone to vacuum yours every time. https://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m4084.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xac+vacuum.TRS0&_nkw=ac+vacuum+pump&_sacat=0 Make sure you don't apply pressure to vacuum pump, you can still use the gauges that it comes with to read your high and low side when charged. I'm pretty sure these pumps are only to vacuum system if it's already empty and not like the professional ones that can evacuate a charged system. Maybe someone knows better, I only used it for empty systems and then I fill freon with cans from wallmart and use gauges that come with pump, just don't hook up the pump.

Not sure if it's related but today I drove the truck with new flash and when I got off the hwy sitting at stop light I noticed some smoke went by the truck so I reved it up few times and it smoked mostly white with light blueish tint to it every time I hit the pedal, but when I took off it was normal grayish smoke. It was idling around 11 for timing, not sure if it's related to timing. Drove around town for another half of the hour and it never did again Edit Fuel pressure was around 17-18 psi unless vp timing piston is sticking

That makes sense since it's resistors that do foolling, reason I asked is truck sat for few weeks with switch set to mpg went to start it this morning and noticed battery voltage was 11.8 (before starting) where normally it's above 12. It's probably from not being used enough.

@Mopar1973Man does this switch draw any current, say if it's left in MPG mode for a mouth will it drain batterys

I also think better batteries (bigger in size and cranking amps) would also help. They may absorb the load better from grids and not overload the alternator. Just a thought.

Thing is in Alabama they may not use any winter additives at all if they weren't prepared for cold weather, where is in Idaho at good name staitions it gets a good treatment. So in your case you may need to add some antigell if the store did not.

Just got one coming, mine is little damp inside the cab, figured I'd rather be prepared. Been thinking about getting a kit for a while now but wasn't sure which one or kind, this made up my mind. Thank you. @outlaw7 @Haggar

Fass 150 titanium is what I got, complete 1/2" lines all through out, modified fuel basket with draw straw 5 from Vulcan, quadzilla Adrinalin with v2 tuning, is what I would recommend if you don't mind learning a few things. Check your wires going back to rear end sensor they rub on sway bar and short out or break, even inside wireing loom. I would not trust a lift pump from auto zone or orily, get a fuel guage if you don't have one 14psi is minimum. For reading whiping codes get obdlink.

No, it's mainly for monitoring and setting low psi warning if you wish.

Got a link for the kit

Too much, especially if accessories and grids were off. Diodes will fix most of it but good chance you'll need new armature and brushes, they also contribute to ac noise.

Are you speaking of 2.7.6 Final Release or is this some other flash

Yeah sorry about that I'm using speak to text on my phone it's retarded, I was wondering how you turning on your high idle if your ECM is not enabled

You should be fine I've done it and many others, @Mopar1973Man I believe that is the idea behind it Edit , ignore my post my phone didn't show me all the replies right away How are you getting that to turn on, wife ecm is not enabled. With quad?

Maybe shoot for 0.1 vac who cares if light comes on when grids are cycling, under normal conditions it will be less, maybe 0.06 with some accessories on. So if you're driving down the road and light comes on and you experience related issues then you know. Definitely need some life testing, there's got to be a guage out there that reads that low on vac. I suppose for testing purpose you can hardwire a fluke and drive around recording readings at different conditions.

Yeah I'm jealous of rust free things, hate rust.

Man can't a guy at least dream once in a while

My next set will probably be in 150hp range whatever it is 7x11 maybe, I got 62/68/12. Running 75hp now it's good power but I easily max canbus out with no smoke at all. Now if I didn't have v2 tuning I'd be in 60-75hp range, that's why I have these injectors, got them a while back before v2 stuff.