Dieselfuture

That's weird for sure

So what you're saying is basically higher pop (around 330-340 for 250hp injectors) is better for starting and clears up smoke, other than that no gains in power that worth talking about.

I'm jealous

There is got to be something wrong with brand of joints you're using, original spicers should last close to 200k imo, at least a100k in any condition. But there is always a but.... @Mopar1973Man when did your original ones failed. I can't believe @dripley still on same ones for 400k +

Spicer non greasable would last a lot longer

Check oil pressure sensor too for 5 volts, there were cases where oil sender wood internally leak and short out. When I learned that I just changed my oil sensor to be safe. Not saying you need to start changing sensors for no reason.

Agreed ^^^, but there is always a but, like maybe even 100hp injectors and with proper tuning you may not need wire tap, it was a bit of pain in the to learn and still learning quad v2 tuning but you can't pry it away from me, for a vp truck it's the only way to go imo.

What are these monitors worth these days, mine is barely used. At one time I remember reading fixes for buttons and thinking some day I may have to do it and nope,...iquad it is, technology lol.

Well .... Just when you think you're getting ahead ha ha, looks like i might be pulling more wires

So who is using this mod, I've just been relying on a relay that came with fass that uses ecm plug to energies it only, but my truck starts with half a crank so I'm not even sure if pressure even starts to rise while it starts. I can see it would be more important if it took at least couple of revolutions to start, where pressure may be higher by then.

I'm on board but still can't grasp the whole @Mopar1973Man reducing timing for better mpg

Sounds more like a lose wire or connection to me.

It may take some time for it to break in, brushes to armature can create ac noise when brand new, give it little time and check it again, also make sure all grounds are in good shape, for that matter all connections. Mine been around that since I rebuild it with no side effects, before I rebuild it it was close to .06 I belive at idle and over .1 reving up.

I can't even believe they actually make these statements and then expect to get paid

Yeap ^^^^^

No you won't have cad, I don't know if it was a question. Sorry that's all l know on this subject, I guess one more thing is if you have a vacuum leak you'll have more blow by because vacuum pump pulls vacuum in to crankcase so if you have a leak instead of creating vacuum in lines you pump air in crancase.

Sorry I'm just guessing but I would say anything after check valve should hold vacuum, pump itself no. Pump got little plastic like paddles if you will rotate and create vacuum so as soon as it stops then it would probably bleed through what's in crank case, I'm not 100% sure if it's a completely positive displacement pump. So that would leave check valve to do the rest. Don't you also have CAD on your truck being 01.

@JAG1 I'd have to agree. They're trying to weed out back yard mechanics with newer vehicles, soon you'll need too many advanced tools to work on anything and only would make since to purchase for a shop not for every day joe. That's why I'm keeping this truck forever no matter how much I hate it at times, but there is always going to be a way to hack stuff.

Trucks probably, drivetrain,.... not all. I'm speaking off an engine, manual transmission, Dana axles, NP transfer case, pretty much why I bought my truck. There seems to always be enough enthusiasts to keep things going, if our trucks were made much cheaper there would have been a lot of other vehicles without a drivetrain in them, just thinking out loud here.

I've tested mine at 20 with all the boots on through the turbo, found some leaks fix them, then did it again at 30 PSI and found more leaks but they were really minoot. In my mind minoot leaks at low PSI like 5 is more important to fix then at 30 PSI. But all boost leaks are bad. Plus I don't see a problem testing boost leaks at PSI same as when you driving, so if I can reach 45 PSI and hold it there for period of time then I don't see why you couldn't test for Boost leaks at 45 PSI, yes it does look freaky how boots swell up but if you want to find all the leaks then that's the way it should be done with everything in place. for example my rear bumper is also an air tank, if I put 100 PSI in there it does not leak, but if I go 130 then it will start seeping air and it will stop when it gets to around a 100.

I'll probably get one some day but still keeping the one I got now. Just waiting for the right time meaning price conditions options.

I was just thinking if you took housing off you could see more and possibly something jammed in there, but if you do take the whole turbo off then might as well rebuild it like Mike mentioned above and maybe get a slightly bigger wheel.

What state is this, man that's a nice place how remote is from civilization, I'd love to live at place like that and being able to enjoy life and nature.

I do like 4th gens looks and 4 doors but price and all the other bull no thanks.