Dieselfuture

That's a good point Me.

Pictures please.....

Probably just lose bolts

If you don't have any codes (in my mind something with map sensor) then check for boost leaks. It sounds like you're losing boost at lower rpm to me. Pressurize the system from turbo inlet and spray soap water everywhere, especially all of the boots and back side of compressor housing of turbo. Keep pressure regulated around 20-25 psi, not sure when your waste gate opens. I checked mine at 35.

You should be fine if you don't abuse it, DAP has brand new rv275 no core needed, keep old ones for a trade in later if you go bigger. Remember to get new orings for crossover tubes.

Yes every time I need some lumber I have to throw at least 2 boards aside just to keep one, and by the time you get home seems like few other ones decided to get twisted, everything else they sell is about same. Funny how they don't even bother you anymore when you bring things back, they just take it, kinda like Walmart. Garbage in garbage out....vinyl tube seems to be okay though, but probably causes cancer in California.

Welcome, cool built. like mentioned above I would also say if money is not a problem buy a quad with v2 tuning if you're staying with vp, if you're going to p-pump it then @jlbayes is your guy for advice, maybe @TFaoro can sprinkle his experience. Another thing is your 95 fass may be at its limits with twins, I'd say fass 150 titanium or a mechanical. Be nice to see finished project.

Why not lol, it's all same garbage

Off subject but your profile picture looks like fun, where is that at.

As much as I don't want to shop at Walmart you can get oil there much cheaper then orilys, while you're there get some 2 stroke oil for adding to fuel, it's the supertech stuff in blue jug. Bigger vacuum line might be 1/4 and rest 1/8 but don't quote me on that. I actually used some vinyl clear line on mine just cause I had some. Get it at menards or places alike for cheap.

Hard to turn is more then likely air never got pushed out of system, try going all the way left and right to full lock a bunch of times. If you put front end on Jack's it will be much easier, or I suppose you could rev it up and do the same on ground. If you're sure you found all the vacuum leaks then it could be actuator on front axle for cad if you have one. But sounds like you blend door is slow which would mean you still have vacuum leak. Edit, forgot to mention vacuum pump is easy rebuildble and if it's not working is because the vains inside could stick from varnish, easy to tear apart clean and new seal kit.

Thank you @IBMobile I'm going to marinade it for a while and see what else comes from this thread, but when I get board again I'll be doing this as I like to be in control of then the compressor is running. And for the blend door fresh/recycled I can probably use a vacuum solenoid like some did on CAD to have 2 wheel low.

Idk, I tend to enjoy it when I can get it...

May I ask why you went with xzt instead of adrenaline

Also make sure you have no vacuum leaks if you have big vacuum leaks that will contribute to excessive blowby or at least it would seem that way. The crankcase vent mod that a lot of us did will actually prevent oil from coming out of breather at steep grades if done right.

I was hoping to wire in the switch to the AC compressor clutch like @SilverMoose mentioned, that way we can turn it on at any gate selector position. So even if it's selected to the floor or vent/floor, I still want to be able turn it on or off at will. I don't know why Dodge ever went to this design, Simplicity perhaps almost like having no locking hubs and a cad on front axle.

Where I'm heading with this is my 2000 Accord has a button to turn ac on and off also it has a button for fresh and recycled air, which is very nice. I have full control over it. So I'm wondering if anyone put a button or a switch at least for ac, so when you have it on defrost in winter then ac compressor doesn't run and not only that heat is not the greatest like we all know it just would make sense to not have ac on. No I know when there is moisture ac helps defrost in that case you can always turn it on but for the most part I'd be leaving it off. And not sure on recycled/fresh air door if it could be put on a switch. I don't see why not for ether just haven't looked that hard in to it. Some day it will be like in a plane with all the switches and guages.

Is this some special flash, mine works fine high idle around 1200 and with eb on it almost goes a bit higher, seems to work good. I have latest flash for box and app from this site.

Basically use the wire that comes from ecm to power the lift pump and use that wire to power a relay, and then the relay would power the lift pump. Make sure to get a relay that has a resistor or diode on it so when it shuts off it won't send any spikes in voltage to ecm. Unless your ecm power wire to lift pump doesn't have 12v now that means something is getting weak in ecm on that circuit from running aftermarket pump that draws too much so you can just wire a relay on toggle switch straight from battery to lift pump (won't need that resistor/diode ether ) but if you get in an accident lift pump will keep running untill you shut it off, and you'll have to remember to turn it on every time you start the truck too. But it beats buying a new ECM. Another thing I'm not sure about is I believe when engine is cranked to start ecm cuts power to lift pump for a brief moment so something inside vp doesn't get damaged from high pressure, but I'm not sure how valid that is.

If I may add, front springs settle with time and put pressure on track bar shoving the axle to passenger side. So there is constant pressure on it. In my mind the only cure is to put an adjustable track bar on and periodically keep an eye on it if it needs adjusted. Do you notice how you have to put a jack under the frame and lift it up to get the bolt lined up. There is also a rebuild kit for the ball joint side that has lifetime warranty so you don't have to change track bar every time especially if it's out of warranty https://lukeslink.com/about And the bushing on the bottom side is sold at just about any part store, just make sure you get a poly one. P.s. I'm still young and stupid

Yeah somebody bright thought It lasts forever, which it does hold up but it starts to separate and blister. I got off fairly easy at 3500, I seen bills go as high as 6000- 8000 if it was complicated, clay tile is much better if it's done right, but obviously new poly or PVC is the way to go. Then it's like a water slide nothing can grab on.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Make sure that it's in neutral so shaft is free when you're checking for play. And remember to block the wheels. Or I guess yours is a stick just put parking brake on, man having hard time believing at that milage they are still tight. Have you ever changed seal and/or bushing in tail housing of transfer case where shaft slides in. Mine is wet but not bad drips once in a while, and I've changed seal before it didn't seem to help, so I'm thinking it may be bushing or my drive shaft has some vibration that I can't feel but it's causing a leak. Wasn't sure how common for these bushings to wear out, I would think it should last at least 300k. Funny thing is it started leaking after I did my u joints, with in few weeks. So I changed the seal and still not fixed, that's why I'm having doughts that drive shaft has something to do with it. I took it back and watched them balance it, it looked good as far as I could tell, he even heated it up few times and worped it just right to take more weights off of it. And this is someone that does it every day for the past 20 some years maybe longer, that's all he does is drive shafts mainly for big rigs and agricultural but he has a lot of car/truck guys that go to him. I would hope he knows his stuff.

Oooo, shiny new parts, always a good feeling.....

Had that at my old house, (orangeberg) ended up pipe bursting it with new poly line. Knew people with backhoe and pipe bursting eqipment still payed 3500 as no one works for free, had to do concrete patches and hall dirt and rock then concrete so it wasnt that bad considering the labor involved. That was almost 100f of pipe too. That poly they pulled is some thick stuff.