Dieselfuture

Mike sorry to keep cluttering your thread but I feel it's related. I'm almost done screwing around and got the shrouds put on yesterday, got the pattern adjusted now just need to clean it up and bake lenses back on and hope nothing moves on me. On the other hand driving my car this morning (5am, that son of a bit.h should only exist in the afternoon) always thinking how much better lights were, it looks deem now after driving truck last night, what a difference. You really can't explain it till seeing it first hand.

For some reason this site attracts all the smart people for the most part... and yet somehow I feel getting dumber every year, it may even be on daily basis it's one of them the more you know the less you know.

Just a thought, but I think your issues might be related to a bad alternator, aside from abs, which is more likely from one of the front wheel bearings.

Was it low on oil or just old wore out.

Up and down is not as big of a deal as side to side, these cheap housings I got do adjust some up and down but to do side to side I got to move bumper forward take lights out disassemble grind a bit on housing put it all together and try it again, did it 3 times now, last night got close, hopefully will finish up today, just need a dark place, garage isn't cutting it for long pattern. I'm wondering how retroshop does it they must have some jig figured out. I ended up making a tool to remove a threaded ring that holds Morimoto's in place, best thing I've done so far, chanel locks just don't cut it. This made a world of difference.

Mike are your lights cross-eyed at distance, what I mean is up close lights seem parallel but after about 50 feet they meet and then go opposite way. I'm not sure if at certain point they need to meet or not. Oh yeah I'm kicking myself self in the as. for not just buying a done set lol, Mini's H1 would definitely be easier to do, but I'm determined now . Drove around a bit man what a difference, high beam you need benaculars to see that far. Now just need to finish adjusting beam and fit shrouds, we'll and put lenses back on housings. First picture is where you can see how left beam is over right and right one is slightly higher. Second picture you can see driver side cutoff line is too far on the left

Yeah it's behind turn signal but still a vent to housing, I'm not too worried about it anymore. Still scratching my head on where to mount all the hardware, don't want to do it twice but seems like anything I do is at least that. Edit. OK found a good place for ballast, just on the other side of battery, Used SS self tapers that I was able to put in through signal light hole. Also hi/low beam was backwards like in a lot of cases, so it Brown and White that need to be switched around in morimoto harness.

I just put a few in Mike's thread, you probably already seen them though lol.

Picture before last, there is a little white dot about 1/4" by turn signal bulb, that is a vent I was talking about @Mopar1973Man

@Mopar1973Man here is what they look like, are you saying you can see where they sanded flat part even more to where there is a hole? If so I guess I can just make my bullet shrouds work, just was under impression apollo2 flat stile fits right in Edit. Now that you said hat I think I can see a hole right through the shroud, aaaaaahhh, I think I'm going nuts.... next time will be listening to my wife and just by a complete set, NOT.... lol.

Where did you ended up mounting hardware, having trouble finding a good spot. One of them say mount this side down. Thinking about bolting things to side of battery tray.

Mike if you don't mind me posting here instead of starting a new thread. Plus I got exactly same housings minus all chrome and d2s universal kit. Thank you sir. I don't get it, these bulbs don't have an oring or anything to make inside the housing air tight, and there is a small vent hole in housing itself with a piece of fine mash over it. I thought lights had to be air tight to keep moisture out. Been scratching my head here with these things lol, I'm half way to just should of bought a complete set... but love the experience and heated garage.

So I got all the parts except the bullet shroud does not fit inside housing, too big around and I had to order apollo2 flat that Mike has with his d2s. My question is for high/low my harness came with brown/white wire that is not in the plug 9006 that it came with, I got to put that in and before I do it backwards any one has a picture maby, thanks. Edit. I think I'm asking about wrong wires, as I'm looking at instructions on line it says it doesn't matter how you plug them in its only powering silinoid for hi/low. I haven't got to the plug that originally plugs into old bulb yet. Still learning.... Edit. So hi/low to get it right, need to switch white and brown in morimoto harness.

I believe longer battery life along with less stress on the alternator which if loaded puts out excess ac noise that leads to electronics failure such as ECM, psg an so on. On proper way to disconnect can't remember @Mopar1973Man is the man on that. I use his mod for 143f resistor on iat which is ran thru a relay on toggle switch and it's always fooled in warmer months and only use it to start the truck in colder mounts and switch it back to 143f to keep greeds off.

I didn't have to take the bad off just a bit of magic and it went in , maybe little sand in eyes.

Just in case, when I put my air compressor in and extra lights for backing up or just to see behind me if I'm in the woods, I ran a piece of pex inside driver side frame as conduit and shoved whatever wires I needed in there, with few extra for who knows what.

I would listen to ^^^ I only know it's possible to fix it and get by for a while but in long run its a gamble. Depending on what you use it for, if you stay around town and not afraid that some day it will happen then I'd put new seat in and use it, there is always that chance of it falling out and doing damage to piston and etc. Actually my mom's old car was a 2000 ford focus and one time I drove it to the machine shop to get my heads for BBC they were working on and the guy told me that eventually valve seats will fall out and I should bring them that head. At first I thought he was kidding and just screwing with me since I just picked up a set of heads, but then I did some research and sure enough. Not even a year later it dropped a seat right in my driveway, couldn't be a better place. It had almost 180k on it and all rusty so I just hauled it to scrap yard.

You know, that sounds about right. Last time I greased it i pumped about 20 pumps and it all came out of sensor hole looking a bit dirty, I did it while rotating the hub till it looked clean, then I vacuumed extra out of abs hole. So maybe it's clean grease that stopped my abs from coming on and not cold weather. My bearings are also tight, I guess I'll just flush the grease out more often. Makes sense now, just a coincidence on cold weathermaybe.

@Mopar1973Man is this life tool easily available or is it something special. My abs quit coming on now that it's cold out, the only thing I can think of is grease staying solidified and not messing with sensors. I did grease my front bearings awhile back and as soon as I did it i started to get abs light. Just doesn't make sense @TFaoro also greased his and I haven't heard him complaining. Maybe because he used a sensor hole and could only get so much in there, where I put a grease zerk and packed them full, I did get a lot of it out with a vacuum but there must still be a bunch left and somehow it's messing with sensors.

Weird, they only offer 98.5 and 99

I guess if it's not a huge deal and Nick unplugged it and plugged it in a thousand times and I've done it probably 30 or so lol, then maybe I'll leave it alone for now, it just feels like it should have a fuse there. But then again if it has spikes in amps like that maybe that's why it didn't have one to begin with.

Kind of what I was thinking 10a, I think I might put one in, just weird that it didn't come with one, unless there isn't much draw to begin with and even with a fuse by the time it gets up in amps to pop one it maybe to late for a box anyway.

Maybe they can put new seat in if pressure test is ok

I believe it's been discussed before, but I need a straight answer on adding a fuse to a power wire going to a battery from the quad. Reason I'm wondering is every time I unplug the main connector to the box to flush it, something always clicks and I don't want to unhook a battery lead every time, plus if I do by the time you get it off it will click a few times anyway so it's almost better to just unplug the box. So I want to put in line fuse on positive feed, but don't know what size. That way it will be protected for whatever reason and won't be clicking a bunch of times. I'm guessing it will probably still click ones when I pull the fuse. I don't know I'm just thinking out loud and not sure if fuse is even needed.