Dieselfuture

Yes but, USA USA USA. Lol I own some harbor freight tools. That's how we by sh.t at wallmart too and wonder what's happening to the country. I see your point, if you bought everything made in USA, you'd be sleeping in a truck.

I just did a head gasket on my truck and all of bolts were in good shape so I reused them and didn't reuse the straps that keep bolts from backing out, so far it's good. I did have a tiny crack but decided to wait on changing it as I spent too much on HG job and head. In my opinion if both manifolds are good quality then get the cheaper one and reuse stock bolts. I would go with made in USA just because.

Here is what Toyo's open country are doing, nothing but daily driving, don't recall spinning them on anything sharp. Just developing random cracks and missing chunks.

It looks to be already drilled and tapped, the only difference I see is unknown place of manufacturing and no ss bolts between 2 links. I kinda like the one made in USA.

I have used test strip from cummins, but last time just changed it because it's been almost 4 years anyway. I don't see why any pH testing method would not work as long as it's used the way it was intended. You can buy a more expensive pH testers just Google them.

I've seen engines sit for years and fired up with no issues, watch gauges close. Definitely be a good idea to change oil and even antifreeze if it's been a while. Things turn acidic after time, even if not used, (not new in sealed jug, if it's been ran through the motor reaction starts) On older gasers you could pull distributor and prime oil that way. This is off subject but while I'm thinking of it I'll Like mentioned PH is very important, and not only in a truck but in our body. For example, viruses and a lot of bacteria love acidic environment. They say, you are what you eat, kinda sorta. So if a guy drinks soda eats fried fast food, lots of acids. Even most of water you drink from bottles bought at store is not good for you. Tap water would be better as it's regulated to a certain standard, most bottled water is not. But there is a catch, a lot of it is fluoridated along with chlorine and most time polyphosphate for corrosion control, ( Flint Michigan happened because of lack of maintaining pH and corrosion protection ) bottom line is our body likes pH of about 7.4 so if you want to stay healthy maintain that. Most bottled water is between 5.5 and 6.5. Cocoa cola cleans battery terminals. Some people choose to drink water with organic pure baking soda, for best results get a pH meter and educate yourself on this subject before eating it by spoon full. Too much of anything is not good. But there are cases of people curing cancer buy keeping pH of their body alkaline, cancer cells stand no chance in alkalinity but thrive in acid. Please do your own research on this important subject.

Pretty sure after some time they all say screw it. That's why we're all here, cause we're not all there.

Light load/throttle timing is how you raise your cruise timing. But you need to be sure your rpm timing is also in range of where you want to be.

When the end comes, they won't know.

I know yellow one's used to be considered fog lights, they probably designed to give light but not reflect of moisture or snow

Basically if you're using an aftermarket pump (fass/airdog), it's best to return fuel from pump in 1/2" to keep psi swing down. Return from head and vp don't mess with. Reason you want 1/2" for return, if you can return it in 1" for example them fass or airdog will be happy it's how they regulate pressure, ball and spring, whatever doesn't get used flows to tank, but if you pinch it off now you got all that extra pressure going to vp, and that's why those that don't do it correctly have trouble with wild psi.

I like my free topper, put some bicycle hoist in garage to take it off, takes about 10 min on or off.

If it's not relay it maybe contacts and plunger inside the starter sticking somehow, but does sound like a relay. If you can pull it to then you can rebuild it with Larry b kit, cheap and easy. Probably time anyway.

3m

I had a turbo built by North American Turbo Systems (Zach (574) 216-5032) it was 800 some bucks and I kept my original one, you can send it in as core for 100. He basically made me 62/67/12 I love it now that I got all boost leaks fixed, and quad pretty close to my liking. It's a hx35/40 with bigger exhaust wheel and compressor wheel, uses hx35 exhaust housing machined out and hx40 housing for inlet to fit bigger impeller. You may want a 62/65/12 but he can do whatever. Still has a 5 bolt flange with 3" outlet for exhaust brake to clamp on. That's why I went with it because I wanted to keep my exhaust brake. Or you can be like @Me78569 and use he351ve it has a built it exhaust break and a 4" outlet, but you'll need a controller for it.

Yeah auto spell check, just fixed it. Maybe up your canbus fueling a bit to help spool on take off. And pull more timing down low to help spool

If you pull vp, At 355k it wouldn't hurt to check compression, and I still think checking for boost leaks is a good idea especially with tweens.

Same here. You can't cut corners on fuel system. That's kinda what I'm wondering about someone like me sucking and returning fuel from basket vs you or anyone that sucking cooler fuel, and how it may effect vp.

You can just put a plug in the housing where boost elbow goes in and see if it helps, another reason for poor mileage could be caused by wore out vp How is your fuel system all upgraded I hope.

@Youngblood24v your pump low boost scale is at 5 psi that means your wire tap will come in at that if your tps is at 20% or above. Unless you're driving in level 3 where it only uses canbus fueling, you're dumping extra fuel. You might want to up your canbus a little more to start of and maybe slightly steeper curve, and set pump low boost scale to about 14psi. And at 80mph I would think you should see about 22-23 degrees of timing. That means your rpm range timing needs to be at that or higher or it will limit your cruise timing. I hope I explained it correctly, if not I'll get corrected

Check back side of the turbo where big snap ring is on the intake side, that's where I had a pretty good boost leak on mine after having a turbo built, if you do have a leak there you could simply take that snap ring out pull housing off bearing housing be careful not to damage impeller, and just use a small bead of rtv, let it sit overnight to cure before you apply pressure. I'm guessing you using soap water in the spray bottle to look for your leaks, spray the crap out of everything and pressure-tested. Do you have a mechanical boost gauge or you're relying on your comp box

Maybe he modified his fuel basket and something happened to return line. That brings another question @Mopar1973Man or someone that can check on fuel temperature at vp. Since I'm returning fuel to the fuel basket, I want to compare fuel temperature to someone that is returning to the filler neck. I've seen my temperature as high as 160 f. But I'll double-check.