Dieselfuture

I'm guessing this 2.6.1. Is so quad doesn't freeze when changing levels

It sounds like psg on vp, pour cold water over vp when it acts up see if it helps. Have you checked ac noise on alternator, you mentioned some external regulator. Sounds kinda like vac may be doing its thing. Your lift pressure is still lower then we all like to see. Any codes

Fill out warranty card and send it in new air dogs are not as good as the old ones at least you'll have a year warranty

^^^that or a mechanical pump, you can always take it off and put it on 12valve if you sell 24.

Your lift pump failure is what caused your vp to give you death code, if you get a new vp get a good lift pump. Sure you can try to put a new lift pump on and see if it helps but chances are having that code vp is on last leg.

I don't know, I love my 5" with see through mufler. Drone comes on around 80mph I usually don't drive over 75. Sounds great too, but this is like who likes what color and taste.

I just posted it's in my thread on busted gear case. Apparently brake light switches and headlight switches do waky stuff, especially when towing an aluminum trailer ( what I heard). Wireing gets hot and melts

Little update not related to gear case but don't want to start a new thread. He's been hunting for tranny problems and found that brake switch is bad along with wireing and maybe headlight switch also. Still need to address his alternator but I guess this is a common problem. Do they sell brake switch wireing harness Here it is

Boy that does suck. We had a major flood in 08 that no one expected. Me and few of my friends spend a lot of time helping people move things out as the law just stood by and watched, worst yet tey were kicking some people out and forcing them to leave pets behind. We've lost count how many pets we got out from addresses people told us to go and check. Then we had a mail man telling us where there were handicapped people that never got rescued, sure enough walking through first floor find a lady on crunches sitting on couch with water touching her butt and electricity still on. After getting some of these people to dry land we had some angry residents that were ready to tear lawenforcement apart as all they would do is push everyone back as water came up. They tried arresting us few times but we would always find a place to drop someone off and drive back in water before they get there. Aventualy they cut up to us but by that time we were giving rides to news channels and when we got back and cops seen news people they just politely asked us to leave. Here is a video of us driving around flooded naighbor hood.

Can it be apps in any way, maybe level 0 doesn't use it

Guessing you have 3.55 and not 4.10 most people put these on, have 4.10. No smoke is probably due to shifting later, more load is because of bigger circumference and rotating mass. Hate to say it but I don't think quad will help much. If more smoke on take off you can tune that out with v2 tuning. Cruising you can play with timing and canbus too and see if you can gain some mpg. If you got quad questions just go to https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/ pick a topic an fire away.

I got both of mine at Carquest, they were original mopar or a really good fake. Did them as one unit like Mike's video shows. Been working good so far.

Nice install. Better halfs tent to feel it when to bother us with stupid sh.t at best timing. Looks like you're missing rear brake shields, just incase I had to change mine and couldn't find them anywhere, turns out 3d gen ones fit just fine, slightly larger in diameter. I got tired of looking for replacement and said f it and got the ones were available thinking I could modify them, but they identical.

I've dumped enough money in past projects, that's why lately I'm more after longevity then crazy hp, although if I had to do it all over again I'd probably do same thing, lots of experience gained and fun. These days it's house payments, kids, and enjoying life when possible.

Sometimes it takes few days for fuel to stop coming out from behind the nut. In my opinion it's extra fuel behind the nut that comes out when engine is hot, aventualy it stops leaking, no need to kill that nut if it's already over tighten. If still leaking after few days then mating surfaces not true. If you have no hard starts let it go for few days and see what happens. And yes some of my lines are over tighten, but that's just how it is sometimes.

What would it show in oil analysis like? Iron or something else. May not hurt to do oil analysis once in awhile. Man all this hype about cummins and more you into it the more you find. I guess other diesels are not much better and harder to work on. Just did my valve guides at 150k and didn't even look at rockers that hard just put them back on. Now thinking about looking at them. When I had the head off and was cleaning the block, I was thinking should I crank motor over till oil comes out of holes just incase some crap went down oil holes. Guessing if there is anything in there it will not flush out through rocker and will reduce oil flow and cause more wear. So idling truck for more then few minutes is not good at what rpm is oil pressure sufficient to keep things lubed up.

always wanted to have a radio in my truck just I guess never really had a big need for it, but sure is nice write-up if I ever did decide to put one in. Thanks. All I can say is where is all the rust, clean truck. I thought 73 was used in Europe and 10 4 in US but then I don't know any better ether.

I won't be much of a help since my 5-inch was on when I got the truck not even sure of a brand, but I'll put it in my . they do make stainless steel so I would say that's the way to go. I cleaned and painted my exhaust when I first got the truck and didn't even use high temp paint for exhaust because it doesn't seem to last, I used high temp engine paint. It's been holding up pretty well, I did have to touch up downpipe a few times and random places but not much. Now if it rusts inside out that'd be a different story on the outside it still looks good.

I do know if in airplane mode I have much less problems

Diesel with heavy mix of 2 stroke, or just motor oil, you can maybe put some motor oil in and move it around so everything gets coated in it and dump it out, plug holes from dirt and moisture. When ready to use flush it out with diesel or it would probably be fine the way it is with oil resedue.

Probably not a good idea, but I've done it myself on other vehicles

So this might be stupid on my part but after doing head gasket I still haven't changed my oil, put almost thousand miles on it since. I now have 3500ml on the oil. I don't believe water ever got in oil and I do have a bypass filter. So I'll be changing it this fall when I get around 5k on oil. It is still half clean on dipstick, I do know if I put it in a bucket it will look black. Smells ok too. Screwed up part is I got 20 gal of new oil and like 8 filters, I guess I'm wired like that.

Well seems like his jb weld been holding up and no leaks there for now. Looks like his vacuum pump needs to be rebuild dripping oil a little. On his tranny measured vac and it's 0.15 at idle so it's a fail. We took fuse out and lock up didn't seem to work at all when going about 60-65 and applying brake. And his tranny just seem to shift up too soon, guessing kick down cable needs adjusted.

I always thought hold down for injectors were pretty dead on not much room for wiggle and it keeps them lined up. But I do know it works different for some. In my opinion it's the injector line to cross over tube is where most expirience the leak, over killing it and damaging contact sufface and dirt maybe. I did hear of some injectors having scratches where tube contact. But then again why are you seeing fuel from 3 injector lines without vp rotating. If vp truly has 300k on it I'd say just change it out anyway dought there are many miles left on it.