Dieselfuture

@dripley you're not going to believe this but you look exactly how I emagine. And what a nice cabin.... @Me78569 lol you posted few fake pictures of you and then a real one!? So I'm still not sure there.... still smiling. @Buzzinhalfdozen nice down riger, we're just using a manual one, cannon ball, works pretty well, go few nice Lakers that way. @Wild and Free respect!

The place that I wish I could be at more often, but... ya all know the rest. Ontario Canada, I tend to have a great day there every day even in bad weather.

Boy I hate to say it, but after all the monkeying around with greasing my wheel bearings, it seems to be grouling more and more now and my abs keeps coming and going. Wired thing is they feel tite and smove when rotating tire on jack stand. Maybe just tire noise

I would put extra in, counteract site said 6oz for my tires and I had a slight shake once in awhile. I think I have close to 8oz in there now, feels good.

Women most will never get it. I wish I could make it and meet up with all you, maybe when kids get older. I'm jealous in a good way. You guys have an awesome time. I and 4 other guys hopefully will be going to Canada for a week in middle of nowhere in September fishing and enjoying no cell service. Long overdue.

If you're not using coolant then probably not, I was just thinking out loud. I know sometimes when there is a crack someplace then it would do odd stuff cold vs hot etc. Reserch white smoke in diesel and see what can cause it. Like air in fuel, water in fuel, timing maybe.

You may have a cracked head and that could be reason why you blowing smoke. Just a speculation.

My exhaust side looked similar not as bad on oil resedue, wow on your valve seals nothing left, how many miles on rebuild. I'd be all over your rebuilder I don't care if you took it to the track every weekend it should last for quite a while. Unless you use send for oil. Just kidding of course. Looks like poor job to me.

Can't be much harder than cleaning AR15

I also added a filter in return line to mine.

Greeds will cycle pretty much every time you start the truck, and can cycle on and off first few minutes and wts will not come on while the ruck is running already even though grids are cycling, but wts does need to come on righ a way when you turn key on.

Yeah I see your point.

Wts is also a communication between ecm and whatever else @Me78569 can explain better. If it doesn't come on then it's not getting booted and probably can cause all kinds of issues. When it's warm greeds will still cycle just won't stay on very long. A new alternator from part store can be junk, it can still charge but ac current will not pass. Most of time it's diodes or also brushes and Armature can cause ac noise. I rebuilt my alternator for that reason because ones from part store 90% of time are junk right of the shelf or in a short time will be junk. You can by a factory alternator from a site like moparpartsdiscount or something like that.

If you had your engine rebuilt recently and your guides are bad already it has nothing to do with changing brake in oil too soon that stuff is mainly for seating rings to cylinder and braking cam in. There is not much oil that gets passed seals unless seals are old and wore out. Plus they put thick oil on valves before sliding them in to head. On older motors where they just used umbrella seals more oil got on valves to keep it lubed up, in my opinion these newer positive seals almost seal too good. There is a good chance they overlooked your valves and called it good. Not all of them were bad on mine, and I only checked few and got lucky/unlucky and only seen the good ones so when I got to the machine shop to drop the head off, he said your guides are shot and need new ones, I said no way I just checked them, he said did you check all of them. Well sure enough. I spent $1000 on the head. Surface, mag, pressure test, 3 angle valve job, all new seats. He treated me right and I trust this place as I've been dealing with them for close to 20 years now. On your wts light it should come on every time you start the truck, doesn't matter how hot it gets. Good chance you cooked something with a bad alternator. Ujoints should not have any slop in any direction,

I've heard they are not hard to go through but need time like anything else. I just changed one on a k2500 suburban and we ended up just buying a rebuilt unit with life time warranty from orily. Took almost 2 hours but we were not in a hurry. I think it was $150 didn't pay attention it's easy to spend friends money lol. Probably would be cheaper on line but for sertain parts I don't mind paying more so you can always exchange it and not deal with shipping and wait.

Did you find your leak

I paid around 15k for mine with 120k on it and few aftermarket parts and thought it was a decent deal. I bet I spent another 6-7k on it in passed 6 years witch is not bad at all. And every time I check prices on similar trucks I'm still able to sell it for what I paid for it, maybe more. Not a lot of vehicles you can do that with.

I just had to put all new valve guides in my head, 10 or 12 of them were pretty lose and had oil resedue inside at least on the exhaust ones that I could see, guides were oveled out and that's what machine shop told me too if I put new seals in it will eat them up quickly. So I ended up putting all new guides. Not what I wanted to do on a head that only had 155k on it. At least it wasn't cracked, these heads are hit and miss.

I was in the same boat so 8 got the ones that mount over leafs rings and modified them to fit on bottom out blocks. Not the greatest but been working for 4 years now.

I think sometimes if not greased regularly and not cleaning out the cap so there is room for grease to go, then grease gets hard with time and when you try to squeeze more in it goes passes the seal.

From what I've read counteract are supposed to be better, and people would use just about anything even ss shotgun bbs.

Believe me I tried, he has his ways and who knows it just might last. His determined to get it done today, got these parts from local cummins, $6 kdp, $37 seal, making a tab now, jb weld priceless....

He's getting a pin and too cheap to get a case, he got it jb welded and feels pretty confident in his job, time will tell. Also putting in a new seal, any tips for him on doing seal, post something here. He has a link to this thread and been checking it. He also says thanks for the help. @jlbayes what fuel pressure should he be seeing to p7100, all stock at the moment, but he's been reading things about boost elbows and fuel plates.

@dripley I did added grease zerks and by taking sensors out I pump grease and rotate bearing and let all dirty grease come out of sensor hole, and then I use a pretty good suction vacuum and suck as much as I can out, I would guess they are 80%full of grease when done. Better than having them lock up on hwy. I did feel them after long trips and they were never hot, barely warm. I should go by a lottery ticket as I had it happen on 3 out of 4 tires in few hundred miles lol.

So where did this all ended, kinda curious. Is there a particular device that will work flawlessly with quad, I'll get one if I have to, or all devices have glitches. Not sure who developed it if it was aimed at particular device.