Dieselfuture

I made my return out of jic fittings but it takes a bit more time and ingenuity. The one to the lift pump I did use one from Vulcan because it clips in place of factory pump and travels up and down with the basket. My return is aluminum cut short maybe 1/2" of bottom. That was before they offered 2 fittings in one kit.

It's in line with power steering pump all one unit. First vacuum pump and ps pump bolts to it. Under injection pump.

When I first saw it I was like what a dambas. that made that happen. I would love to have hubs and serviceable bearings like old days as I only use it maybe hand full of times a year, why all this unnecessary wear. Plus a weak link and geometry of the whole axle .

I ended up making my own brackets, I didn't like the idea of putting them on the springs.

I threw away all wd I had never liked that garbage, I now use pb blast and once things free up i add a bit of motor oil if needed.

That we already know, no ifs about it. We're all lucky you're here How do you know your current ones aren't tired and already lower on pop pressure then you think. You right you could be testing injectors till cows come home but I think there is a hole in a fence.

At my local Cummins people that work there have gone full retarded and sad part is they don't know it, every time I go there it's something new with them. You literally have to tell them what to do and how or they are lost. I think Cummins head quarters have an agenda of some sort. I did change my oil sender once because if it leaks internally it will screw up 5 volt loop, and affect other sensors.

@BBHD is there much of a difference between 2 probes in normal operation being next to each other

Not sure if you tried it yet, turn airplane mode on and make sure the only thing that is linked is quad. I had some problems but after I updated to betta flash and app that Nick provided it's been good to me, I'm using quadzilla only with a load bar. Also might try moving iquad BT under hood, could be signal not getting through the firewall

I'm using quad probe in the manifold and pillar one in my exhaust break elbow, not that I need it but was in same boat you are so I'm using it.

Where does it usually crack, do you use torque wrench.

You seem to be on a right track, the only thing I would recommend is checking alternator for excessive ac noise/output

I don't know.... @dripley @IBMobile are all about hub caps, I usually throw them away. For some reason I can't stand hubcaps. I do like a nice set of rims like Im using now are of a 2012 can't believe people sell them somewhat cheap to get some junk aftermarket ones just to have them go to crap in a few years, and if you ever need to just get one good luck, unlike factory. Plus the whole weight rating. Sorry can't help.

joking right

I would ask Zach at http://www.northamericanturbo.com they deal with all kinds of turbos I'm sure he can help.

I like all the room I got.

1 for now maybe 7 later I'm relying on only fass150 with its 2 filters. For pressure I just put a T in big line kit. Some days I think I should of kept factory filter also, for extra filtration and heater. I hope fass 2 micron filter is doing its job, but I also think that by running 2cycle oil is doing more good for vp then factory filter, but I also know that @Mopar1973Man had outdoor trash in his factory canister that is used after his air dog 150. But I was never a fan of opening that canister to change a filter and risk dropping garbage in. I don't know, good luck with your decision.

And the rest of the story is yes you can tune things out like never before thanks to Nick and his creation of v2 tuning. I only have 75hp injectors and 62/67/12 and it's plenty for women I date. I hardly even use wiretap I'm scared of it

So, ..... I love mine, if you're patient you can try doing d2s if not get h1. Both will be better than anything else out there. One thing I thought I had figured out is couple of pins that need to be switched around for high/low to work properly, whell that part works but when I turn fogs on by pulling out switch it will turn my high beam on and even by switching hi/low it will keep highs on until I push in the switch for fog lights in. @Mopar1973Man guessing need to move pins around some more? If you ever close to your plug can you take a picture of it? I had to cut off about a1/4" on top side to make em fit in, just to clarify for anyone else looking at apollo 2 flat shrouds. And my original bullet shrouds I was going to use were too tall and would of hit the lenses or been right up next to them.

Just get some Morimoto's already

Mine is, unlock/lights on both doors open, light goes out after set time. Lock/lights off both doors locked.

https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO You can choose H1 or D2S

I always thought about relocating it inside the cab but seems like I'm always finding something else to do.

I never crimp important connections always solder, and if I do crimp something I always put dielectric grease on wire before crimping and then use shrink tube.