Dieselfuture

04 is old enough, find a used one I'm sure they are out there. What the hell did you do to crack it. On other side I seen something that looks like a crack but it was just a casting thing. If it's seeping oil then yeah.

Weird I have an 1/8" line to both my fuel pressure and boost guage and it's been fine for years. I have a needle valve on fuel pressure that is barely cracked open. Could there be a kink in line somewhere or maybe just a faulty gauge.

Welcome to the greatest cummins site ever. Sounds like you're on the right track checking the alternator. I'm not sure if your scan gauge can monitor your apps, or you can use a Multimeter and check resistance and make sure there is no dead spots. I don't believe it's a good thing unplugging sensors and leaving them unplugged, not only you should get an ecl light but you're breaking the 5-volt loop. I believe your old quad as you say, is capable of being a new badass quad. Just get a quad BT for Android device if that's what you have and flush new software to it from this site. You'll be able to monitor a lot of things, apps included, and get lots more power without wiretap. I believe someone like @Me78569 will be able to help most on your issue, as he knows how to debug and rewire a grumpy woman's brain. Not calling your truck a woman or anything just a reference, no offense to anyone.

How do you like it, any lag, would it still work with 60-90hp injectors. What's all needed. Thank you, I never really looked in too far in this direction.

I think reason you're not getting a lot of responses on two wheel drive is because most of us dealt with four wheel drive and I don't believe it's that common to jack up a 2wd. I do remember back in the day some of my friends messed with putting bigger wheels and tires on two wheel drive cars, and part of the task was extended control arms and heavy duty ball joints. Not sure if it would be same for your application.

I'd like to maybe do this hybrid thing, what is a good way to go about it. Would it be easier just to run hx40 instead. My biggest thing is my exhaust break, it's bolted to exhaust housing of hx35, I don't necessarily care if I have a waste gate as mine been seized shut for years now and having a good defuel option with quad its all good now. Also my exhaust housing is in bad shape from rust, I may need a new one. I'm almost thinking I'll be better off just buying a new complete hybrid from someplace, but not sure if it's really worth it.

Just did a quick search and found Turbo Lab America, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M9NJIOU/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 They say hx35 housing needs machining and also "This is a HX40 Compressor Wheel and Housing with a 60mm by 86mm Billet Extended Tip Compressor Wheel. This is an Excellent HX35 HX40 Hybrid Kit also! Details: *Compressor Wheel is Balanced and Ready to Install *Light Weight and Aerodynamic *Designed for Faster Spooling *Outflows Stock Wheel by 5 to 10 % NOTE: The Bearing Housing Must Be Machined to 87.5mm for the Compressor Wheel to Install. We offer this Service for $20, but You can have this Done at a Local Machine Shop Also!"

Yeah, they also have their towing mirrors flipped out for extra hp.

Can someone explain a little better this hybrid thing. So on the outside you can not tell the difference, still says hx35 on it? And what exactly do you need to make it a hybrid which piece goes where? I've always wondered if mine wasn't the hybrid, few guys that rode in my truck thought that it has more power than it should. One has a Ford another drives a Chevy and I got a Dodge what do you know.....

For some reason I can't just reply to thread, I think I'm quoting. But anyway oil pressure sensor shears same close 5volt loop. Change oil pressure sensor just in case. probably won't help but ....

Only if they are reading this thread. ...

So it is possible

@NorthernDodge ha ha, love the profile photo. Don't get me started on this subject. Around where I live, it helps to spot retards on the road. No offense to anyone that is using it for intended purpose. Ok here I go

I'm glad we can all get a good laugh, I'm a horrible spellar felas, good thing for auto correct, although sometimes it makes things seem not what they are.

Ha, I fiberglassed my dash on inside and was going to use some sort of hide/leather for same reason and never finished it. I think I might do it soon if I feel board. Is abs good for that too? I guess it may be as it's made to melt plastic for bonding. little Honda I drive to work now has that vinal dash and I like it, other vehicles have it too, be better than carpet on top.

Or a Turbo seal

I cleaned mine before, just pop besel out and few screws that hold that plastic. Careful not to toch niddels.

Like dripley mentioned, fuel flows freely to basket it's just the line is smal in ID and if you blow through it, feels plugged but it's not. I believe it will run fine with return line plugged but you won't get cooling to vp, and heat is what kills that computer on top. As for Hard start with return line empty, somehow it's effecting pressure side. After it bleeds down it pulls fuel from pressure side and causing hard start. Try changing return banjo bolt, it has ball and spring that may be tired. Chances are your vp is acting up, but to say for sure..... I thought mine was bad, but after changing injectors and taking care of ac noise it seems to run fine again. Dripley is expiriencing same issue I did with random miss, and mine might come back also. We all could have a vp that is acting up, but I'm not wanting to change mine without at least a falt code that says so. Not sure on solution, we can all drive around with a spear vp in back of the truck you can be another guy to cause p pumps go up in price.

Ha ha, we'll good they must of listened. When I got mine they only gave you one for suction, you had to return through factory quickconnect and it didn't work worth of crap. I wasted whole day before I decided to get some jic fittings and make my own. Then I explained them the problem and recommend that they sell two fittings to go through basket. I'm really glad they listened. It really makes a huge difference especially on bigger lift pumps.

It's an aluminum tube, can't remember size but it fitted snug inside plastic tube, your can probably get it at hardware store in a roll and just buy a foot or so . I notched bottom of it so if bottomed out it will still flow. You definitely need to extend that down. I did a bucket test with my basket and if lines were not in fuel when returning, it made that whole basket fome up. @notlimah did your kit come with 2 fittings to go through top of basket? And two plastic lines? That was my argument with them and that they needed to send 2 fittings, because if you return fuel from lift pump through smaller factory line you will have bigger swings in psi.

^^^ Id like to agree, but I never had hard start issue so ..... here is my basket after draw straw 5 and home made 1/2" return from fass and smaller one is returned from head/injectors, I made sure they all went to bottom. Never had a problem,

I believe returned fuel goes towards bottom of basket, unless its from an aftermarket lift pump that comes with filer neck adapter. When I replumbed mine both returns from fass and vp/injectors are about 1/4'' of the bottom. otherwise fuel will foam. Another reason I put ball valves by fass, so when changing filters fuel won't keep sifling out of tank.

@Mopar1973Man@Me78569 What would you suggest for towing tune starting points, maybe 4-5k gtwr and 10-12k gtwr. I think Mikes tune for performance slightly modified will almost work perfect as I've been using it for DD but haven't really pulled a trailer yet. My set up is very similar to Mikes too, minor difference is I have 60hp vs 50hp injectors 5 vs 6 speed and slightly bigger tires, most of the time I drive like an old fart too. I'll keep playing with stuff, just want to go right direction.

@Mopar1973Man I noticed on your max timing, economy vs performance, you have less timing for performance. Could you explain a bit why? I was under assumption on race motor you advance timing with higher rpm to help complete the burn of the fuel by igniting it sooner. I'm sure there is a good reason, I just can't seem to get it. Btw, how do you like your canbus starting higher with steeper curve? And I assume that, what is posted in spread sheet is for 50hp injectors and not your stockers that you are currently using. Anyone else is more then welcome to shine the light on my questions.

I haven't used wire tap since Nick made it possible to have all this adjustment on canbus and timing. Just few times to get a feel for it.