Dieselfuture

I'm guessing fron is about 200lb and rear about 160-180 all I know is its heavy.

Most of the time when I want great mpg I drive my Nissan sentra get close to40. I payed same price I payed for my new FASS so not sure how some people say they can only afford one vehicle. But I'm just being smart as.. Sorry had few beers.

CPP are the ones I'm having problem with, FASS send me new spring and ball for free after I told them pressure was all over the place.

Couple people I know in town said same thing, but unfortunately I just don't have time anymore, building mine got me in enough trouble.

With getting steel, wire, gas and time in garage plus paint, probably 25 hours on front and 15 on rear. But if I did it again which I hope not for a while, thinking I can almost cut time in half. Biggest fight was my wife, that I don't spend time in hose but rather in garage. but that's expected and perfectly normal. I seem to have more time than money so waisting time vs buying one is fine with me, plus I know how it's built and also the way I want it.

Ok small update on my new FASS 150 I got through CPP. No problems with pump except that I had to modify spring and put new ball in, pressure is steady at 18-19 and only fluctuates 1/2psi at full throttle with my fuel basket mod. But what I want to mention is that I ordered extra fuel filter for FASS and received wrong one for older stile FASS, and it wasn't even a filter but water separator, after being on hold several times for 15-20 min they said that they will ship the right filter 2weeks went by I called them again and after20 min on hold told someone else about what happened and they said someone will call me, a week later no call no filter. Just throwing it out there.

Thanks, just an acetylene torch and straight edge.

Yes that is correct. I keep tabs of parts I get for future reference.

Just thought this might help someone when they decide to build their own bumpers. These were somewhat simple to build and didn't cost that much, mainly time. Main brackets that bolt to the frame are one piece and go all the way through bumper, that way you don't have to rely on how good your welder is. I ended up making main brackets out of 1/2" because that's what I had laying around. Front bumper is 1/4" except very bottom where its 3/16. Rear bumper is 4x8x1/4" tube. I don't have measurements, because I just built them as I went, most of it is eye baled and within 1/8" of side to side front to back. I didn't want winches permanently mounted anywhere that is why I put receiver in front and its tucked in so when walking by you don't hit your knee on it, same with front pull points. Also the reason receiver in front is lower and so are tow points is because they line up with frame, that way when you pull on them it wont try to flex frame too much. I didn't put receiver on rear bumper because the one on the truck is much better and held on to frame much stronger. I don't have many pictures of rear but it's pretty straight forward, just notch it how you like it. Forgot about a small thing I added to my front bumper. 2 brackets that hold bottom of my aluminum front winter shield on.

I just found some pictures of my old toy. Mike you can move it or delete it if it's in wrong place. One is original paint and the other is how I liked it. One of my favorite old toys. That is actually how I got to by my Cummins, after selling this one.

here is some of what you're talking about

This is what I got and supposed to be for stock +2'' of lift, mine is stock in rear and got plow springs in front maybe 1/2'' over stock. these seem to work good. ride is better too. They are a bit on long side, should work good with 2" you got.

I just noticed, are them chrome balls hanging of your truck? LOL. One time I put two basketballs in a net sack and hung it in the back on my monster truck I used to drive in town, got a lot of people honking and waiving, also in big letters on tailgate it said "if you got the nuts follow my ruts" we had great time, and now all places we used to go play got closed down, what a bunch of joy killers we got running the show.

I guess I feel better anyway, the axle is rated at 11k so before we brake that, we will blow tires and bent rims.

The way you're saying that it wouldn't start and felt like it was hydro locked, Maybe you blew HG last time towing and somehow it put pressure to coolant and made water pump leak, in mean time while changing your water pump coolant leaked in to cylinder and made it hard to start, and when you cracked injection lines somehow coolant got squeezed back through the injector and let the motor spin free. If that's the case you should be seeing white smoke from exhaust and should be hydro locking again. I hope I'm wrong and half of what I said isn't possible. JTOL

How about when you shut the truck off, shouldn't pressure from coolant work it's way into oil

On pressure fluctuation it can be ball and spring or return line from AD to tank is restrictive. On losing mpg I'd have to agree with you, probably vp is wearing out.

This is what I was talking about http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_80

Great now I'll be scared towing my gooseneck, how much is too much? Mine is only 14k gross and I don't think I had it over 12k so far. Except once one of my friends friend wanted to move small backhoe across town and he thought it was right at 14k which would still be over for that trailer but figured in town we'll take it easy, yeah we drove it on the trailer and I thought my truck was going to do a wheelie. Found a tag on it that I believe said 18k, so we drove it off the trailer and I told him sorry but you'll have to pay someone to get it done. I think he payed around 300 to get that thing moved, not even sure why he has it in first place without a way to get it around. PS I though max weight on d80 SRW was 11k

How is it different from liometer that's in a truck. Mine is about 3-4 miles off.

If you have Denso then http://www.fixinrams.com has diode pack, if you have Bosch then this is the only place I found on net, http://store.alternatorparts.com/ibr256---bridge-rectifier.aspx or http://store.alternatorparts.com/ibr225--.aspx Also Gould gear has brushes and bearings for both just doesn't have diode packs for Bosch.

According to your numbers the lower your speed is the better mpg you get, I'm going to give it another try between 45 and 55 and see if it's any better. Might take me extra 10 minutes to get to work but I usually get there 20 minutes early anyway.

You must of forgot about my post, you replied to it too. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/5903-no-codes-but-will-surge-a-little-on-steady-hwy-speeds-or-up-hills-please-help/page-3

I guess what I was trying to ask, is it nessesery to change a filter once a year regarding of use, or only when they strart to get pluged up. Reason I'm asking is I'm not sure if media or body goes bad in certain time period. Let's say I put new filter on, run the truck for a day, then park it for 5 years, assuming fuel is fresh or oil, will that filter be good for another 5 years if I only put 1000 ml on it in 10 years? Talking to several manufactures of filters they all seem to say same thing change it every so many miles or once a year, maybe they just covering their behind. I know for a fact that a guy I know along with my dad has a vehicle that only gets driven 100 ml a year at best and both of them haven't changed oil for at least 5 years. It still looks new too.