Dieselfuture

When I use mine it's on a timer for 2 hours before the start. Didn't see much difference between that and plugging in over night other then using more electricity, just make sure timer is rated for the watts.

Not a bad idea for cheaper lift pumps and mechanical pumps. I'm pretty sure airdog and fass 150 and up the ones that have dual filters, one of then is a prefilter. Fuel goes through prefilter 20mic? first then gear rotor (pump) then fine filter 2mic? Something like that.

Just hook it back to normal before doing the test if required, may need a cheap scan tool to clear codes. It sets 2 codes like you said but no light on the dash.

Must be nice to be special and have extra options I think it was somewhat available for everyone then it got changed, so be careful what you're saying it stays in the cloud forever, this really goes for anything on the internet. I bet someday if not already it will be used against people, I'm talking about normal people, get out of line and maybe things could even be added to make it look like you said something, like planting drugs on someone that didn't have it. not talking about this particular side just in general. Food for thought.

Put relays on toggle switch, I'm using push button switch so I don't forget it on. Will probably make your grids last 100 times longer.

I remember discussing this before. I can see how filters are protected from debris but I didn't think that wind has anything to do with temperature, it's not skin. If you're saying it's wormer there because of the tcase I can see that just not when you're going down hwy, I'd think the wind would get under everywhere on bottom side of the truck. I suppose it could be like when you get behind a simi close enough it almost drags you with it, why they put wings on trailers now, so maybe filters are in sweet spot where there's no wind and warm air from tcase keeps them warm.

I just changed batteries on the truck this fall after almost 10 years not because they were bad but because one of the studs had a tiny crack that acid was escaping from. I gave my old ones to my step dad for general use. I check electrolytes once a year on all my batteries fill them up with distilled water if needed. My boat trolling batteries are usually the ones need water every few years, truck every 3 years or so. One thing to check is when you get a new set make sure they are full, mine were low a bit.

To my defense all my fuel is returned to the basket, so in the winter it stays warm and in the summer it's not crazy hot unless I'm running on empty tank. If I keep half a tank or more it stays cool 140 or in that range, if I'm running empty I have seen it close to 170. Either way should be fine as long as it works, I would think we would see more failures or associated problems with how things are plumbed, if one way or another it didn't work as good.

How is that heater controlled, is it always on or iat does it?

I just wish I didn't listen to some stories about how you can't have any travel up and down on lower joint but you can on upper, my original joints had about 16th of an inch up and down upper and lower, so I was like ok lowers are going out. So after I changed them with new I had exactly same travel oh well they are new now. I still think about how can you possibly check upper without moving the lower without disconnecting the whole assembly so there's that. For all I know I didn't had to change them for another 100 or 200k hey they have anti-seize on them now same with axle joints on front I changed them because they we're right there when doing ball joints, looked rusty and old but when I got them apart like new inside, so that was a waste too, my own stupidity on that part. On the other hand changing my Y style steering to T was one of the best things I've done, Y wasn't bad yet but it made a nice improvement in how it acted.

I have lots of work to do deleting my post

Didn't know we could do that, guess I never looked into it, didn't see the need to. I think @JAG1likes doing it just to mess with people

I never had a problem using anti-seize on certain fasteners in the motor. Internal components I generally use arp lube same with head studs or other studs. Exhaust things I use high temp anti-seize, has copper in it I believe. What's crazy to me is how much torque specs can change from using motor oil to arp lube.

I swear autocorrect is messing with me, it changes things after I submit, I reread what I typed looks good then later it's all screwed up. Instead of ( will start ) it should have said ( a stud )

The click might not be as loud because you're using 9 volts. All that relay is is basically on off switch, when activated should have 0.000 ohm or very close to it, the higher the ohms indicate loose connection. When the relay is disabled (no power going to it) should be OL, if you're reading 3.5 ohms that means they're partially staying on, or so my brain tells me. Testing the alternator, one leed on the case one leed on the stud using ohm meter should read OL if you getting any reading then it's shorted to ground.

I'm just messing with you anyway, I'm sure you know that too.

Where does guage get signal from? Pcm? Cluster talks to pcm? This is above my pay grade @Mopar1973Man would know, I can say more things but don't want to talk for no reason, I do enough of it as it is.

I seen it few years back, was going to make one but never need it so ... But hey I remembered that I seen it Whatever works, this one seems like a good idea. Need to be light and strong though, that's probably the cost of it.

The one you install with WT mod, don't remember how you got yours ran. I guess that shouldn't effect the gauge, doesn't it go to pcm directly from alternator Pcm protection fuse then I'm about as good in electrical as you are

Sure

Your fuse?

I get it , it's not so much being born in usa it's the mind set. I've met a lot of people that weren't born in USA that are more American than some Americans that we're born here.

I'm one of them, I think I seen mine at 170 before