CTcummins24V

Just replace the whole assembly, that way everything is fresh and rust free. I just went through this with my girlfriend's subaru, it was more cost/time effective to do the complete a-arm then ball joint and bushings.

If you put injectors in your truck with a stock tranny you can pretty much say goodbye to that tranny, especially 100s or over. Not to mention if you have an HY35, as stated it can't handle upgrades. Unless your injectors are bad, start with a programmer, edge comp/EZ and play nice. I had an HY35, stock tranny with +60 HP injectors and an edge EZ and neither the turbo nor tranny liked the added power. A "budget" upgrade would be genuine Bosch rv275s ($400ish) and a used HX35 ($200-300). Again, your turbo and tranny are your limiting factors.

Love my 100s, very controlable. I would consider 125s or 150s though. 100s burn cleaner than my 60s

I did that already, it's tight there. Further up the column in the firewall is where the movement is.

Is there another bearing in the actual steering column itself? I just replaced the intermediate shaft that hooks up to the gear box and now the whole assembly wiggles all the way up to the steering wheel...I already did the the bushing that's in the engine bay. I'm trying get the steering tight on this thing and the hole just keeps going deeper. My old intermediate shaft only had about 1/16 of play at the bottom u-joint so now the culprit points to the column itself.

It all depends on who and where. My oldest brother is a dermatologist and worked for a state hospital for a couple years. It was run by business people/unions, not by doctors and the care was sub par. Not to mention the workers are in unions and if they couldn't do there jobs or they were terrible, they couldn't be fired and were able to stay and work and be protected by the unions...bad atmosphere. Now my brother works private practice with all the right people in all the right places. I always consult my brother and mom (nurse) before going to see the doctor. It's good to have someone that knows your health history when diagnosing/testing so money isn't wasted.

Menards will get ya... especially when they do 11% rebate. Then you go twice in one week and spend almost $500.

That's cool!

I wish my 1/2 ton would get that good of mileage, I'm averaging 15-17 mpg, mostly highway.

Ah hell...me and the red headed step child

Just saw this, great read! Having lived in CT for a couple years, honoring the constitution and owning firearms I can't help but agree with all of it.

Dodge dealer, got a new installed one for about $950...still paying that credit card bill

Mine doesn't always down shift when decelerating, probably something internal or low stall torque converter. If you have the small dodge solenoid when you drop the pan, it's probably stock.

Might as well do band adjustment, borg warner solenoid or DNJ extreme, mopar pressure transducer and 3-4 accumulator spring and filter while it's down. http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/a61847rh-re.aspx

I'm a big fan of NAPA fluids, aka Ashland/Valvoline. NAPA ATF+4 is $1 or 2 cheaper than actual valvoline.

Hahaha, going through that right now. Turbo is put on hold again due to bathroom remodels, floors, lawn mower and an engagement. Wedding...uhhh

I have EBC green pads in the rear, I hate them. Squeaked forever and when heated, won't stop. Coasted through a stop sign or two with those rear pads when loaded.

NAPAs, non-ceramic

Factor in dropping a couple grand in replacement parts, steering, suspension, tires, sensors etc

Definitely upgrade, The HY 35 is good for about stock and stock only

Ya, I don't have an answer that explains all of this. The weight alone shouldn't have done this, the leaf spring install shouldn't have done this. It's suspect...

The clunk was coming from the diff housing. The mechanics drove around in the garage pulling a guy on a creeper with his hand on the housing. Truck has 67,000 miles, they said u-joints were tight. I'm guessing the damage was done and the extra lift in the back just exemplified it and driving 4 hrs just made it even worse.

The center pin or some pin was wallowed out. The rear end has been clunking ever since I hauled those concrete risers. Didn't start till after everything was unloaded though. My ride home empty it clunked a few times, then I did add a leafs and it clunked like crazy. Made it 4 hrs out to Indiana though! Thank God for powertrain warranties!

37s? Wow! Daily driver or strictly tow rig? If you get 4.56s and you ever want to sell your truck or downsize your tires your truck will not be fun to drive.

Note to self and others on this forum, 1/2 tons do not like over 1,000lbs of concrete in the bed. Plus a couple hundred pounds of tools...rear differential getting rebuilt now.