Killer223

just for the sake of sharing, here is what i ended up with from the 4th sale. i had 285/70/17 bfg at's on it before, loved the ride and snow performance but not the mileage from the tires, already at 6 thousands with 20K on them, new are Goodyear wrangler adventure kevlar, 275-70-18's. so far i like them. running 50 front and 45 rear. these tires were 200 mile take offs and i'm sure glad i stepped into that deal. still got the rebate as the previous guy never sent it in.

i'm not sure about the second gens, but on my 08, i can swap spring in about an hour. take me more time getting the tools that doing the job. 3 15mm nuts for shock tower, lower shock bolt, sway bar bolt, then let axle drop, out comes the old and in with the new, then jack up axle, align lower shock bolt, line up swaybar link, continue jacking set upper shock tower, start 3 nuts, jack up axle, tighten all nuts n bolts one more time, install wheel. torque, remove stand on frame, drop and head to other side.

your steering wheel might not be straight but that's easy to fix your self. other than that. i'd leave it alone.

why is iron so high? every amsoil sample I've seen Iron is always high. look at the calcium though!!!! wow lots of antacids.

this is why i think the in tank pump is best. 98% of all parts houses will have it on the shelf. they have proven to be very reliable. where are you broke down at?

well i ended up not being able to pass up the sales event even though i don't need tires just yet. i was after new 18" rims for the load capacity. then they had some 200 mile take offs. in a Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain Adventure With Kevlar. in a LT275/70/18 LRE with a 60K mile warranty. So my plan is to use these for my road trips and my BFG's for hunting and winter tires.The BFGs have anywhere between 6 and 8 thousands left on them. so i'm not sure how much winter driving i'll be doing with them. but we shall see. all told i got the rims for $110 each down from 133, and tires 185 a tire down from 280, so i'm happy with that. had to get 4 TPMS sensors though at 40$ each. and lug nuts. yada yada yada... anyhow i get over 400 back in rebates as well. not sure if i was supposed to with the tires being take offs but i'm not going to complain. And i went in to get the coopers. and the store manager was all i'll make you a great deal on these goodyears. i asked how good. and as you can see. it's a great deal. kinda hard to believe he still works there, after 20 years, he was my boss when i worked there in high school.

the set of ATP's i have on my 04 are noticeably louder than the bfg's on my 08. i'd like to stick with an American made tire if i can. coopers and good years are what it's looking like to me. The ATP's are a nice tire, when new up till around 40K miles. then they start to get noisier and not so good in the snow. still hard one to beat on price and performance.

i have those exact ones on my 04, they wear like iron. i have 48K and still at 8 thousands thread, but i'm not a fan of how loud they get or the fact that they are not all that great in snow past half tread. but i'm a fan of those tires. i was just looking at options. what i'm really thinking is getting another set of 18" rims and having winter and summer tires. but i have no desire to store a set... but it could be done if that's an option.

how low do you let the tread get before replacing tires? as much as i love the ride and traction of my BFG's they are already at 6 thousands. i have just under 20K on them, not sure they'll last the winter. i have a 3-4K mile road trip coming up here on the 20'th. up through Oregon and Idaho. so i'm sure it'll kill the remaining life on these, So what do ya'll think? AH64ID has the ST MAXX's in 255/80R17, i'm thinking about those, but how many miles might they last? I'm in need of a nationwide tire dealer for all the traveling we do. should i go with 18" rims? we don't tow much with this truck, not yet anyhow. it's mainly a road trip queen. i need a good highway tire and still good snow tire. i could go with two set of tires if need be. thoughts.

flea bay my friend. but even still i'd spend the 1500 if that's what will do the job. others are recommending the Autel Maxisys... does anyone here have any history with either of these?

im looking at the ethos from Snap on. but hard to find info on what ones work on my 04 and 08. one being Can bus the other not..

That will do more than just scan for codes, i want one that will let me play with the computer in the truck, run diagnostics, and such. reason i ask, the AC on my 08 is no where even close to that of my 04, so i hooked up gauges, all seemingly ok, now it's time to do tests that the FSM says i need a scanner for. EG: With the scan tool, read HVAC DTCs. With the scan tool in Data Display, read the Evaporator Temperature Sensor voltage. things like that. So what scan tool do i need?

algae in the fuel. it'll keep clogging new filters. or you have an intermittent lost of lift pump pressure. check grounds, and lift pump flow.

dang i've boon looking for a set of 18's from a 4th gen.

just look for a CK SM not SN, if it retains the SN, it lost the good stuff. retella T4 or T5 has the SM rating and not the SN, so it's still the good ol oil. as is Valvoline offerings.

you need some gauges first, Is the compressor clutch kicking on? is it an airflow issues through the condenser? all the blend doors work as they should?

i thought about this, but the drain on the batteries would be to great. i wanted to have it to aid in heating the engine up in the winter. i've not found out one way or tother either.

i'd love to see the inside of that engine, crank bearings, flat tappets, all of it. You send them back to Cummins correct?

you got the truck? where is the PICS??? come one now!!!! show n tell!!! congratz.

ask him what the RPMs are at 70.

that's no fun, what does the inside look like? i went to real plywood, not the OSB they used stock, and when you do get to the wood, treat it with several coats of urethane, that way it repels water. check the walls, as i'd bet they have some damage as well. see if they are soft n spongy. the bad thing about that FRP panel is they hod the moister in, not letting the wood air out, really isn't a hard fix, just time...

been there done that. all the wood was replaced with pressure treated wood, then coated with 2 coats polyurethane (i'll bead the water). seams were taped with eturna bond, windows re caulked with DPI lap sealant. and so far, no leaks, that was 3 years ago. the fiber glass siding was ordered in a sheet of 10x10, then applied with contact cement rolled on both surfaces, then the seam was fiberglass bondo back together and white rattle can paint. and you can see post fix. i had a 2x4 slightly out of alignment. oh well. it's sealed. not bad for a 4800$ trailer.

That was a nice read, I am sure not a fan of the fast talking people that have no mind to slow down and HELP the costumer. they keep it their way, i'll keep my money. Many a times i've told a buisness that i was a costumer for well over 20 years, and i'll NEVER come back, because of how i was just treated. The sad part is, they could care less. But boy i tell you, the next place i go is sure happy to see my dollars in their stores. i shop local when i can, and i try and stay out of the big box stores, yeah i might pay a little more, but it's worth it. have another cup of joe.

do you have juniper trees in your area? shaggy bark? those would be the best to use. else not much is going to last long. that said, i'd soak the posts in the preservative for at least a week before placing in the ground. after soaking i'd wrap them with the aluminum flashing, it comes in roles at depot. that'll keep the dirt off, seal the top and bottom with a good silicone, then place in a graveled bed. the pretreatment in a bucket of preservative will be the best you can do, and the longer you let them soak the better, water isn't the bad guy here, air is. you can bury a post in water and itll last for decades, (alaska building stilts) but soon as air gets to it, it rots away.

i took the driver side bolts all the way out, and the passenger ones just very loose, i had two 2x6's about 2 feet long, one laying flat to kinda wedge between the bed and frame, used it as a lever, then i took the other one and had it up n down, to create a 6" gap between the frame and bed, my problem ended up being a bad wire going to my lift pump, but i serviced everything under whilst i was there.