MnTom

I know there has to be some members from Minnesota on here. Post up! I am about 10 miles west of the tip of Lake Superior.

-30F here this morning. Truck gelled, torpedo heater gelled, son's car won't start (he has my car now), and wife had a medical appt. Oh well, no wind and a rescheduled appt. Guess I will just stay indoors where it is about 101*F above the temperature outside.

I have an idea. Disconnect the right battery and charge the left one. Plugged in it should be enough to crank it over (hopefullly). If it won't, charge the right battey and try it on just that one. You may be able to tell which battery it is like that.

The wait to start light comes on on my truck when plugged in, but only for a few seconds. What would happen if you unplugged one of the small wires on the solenoids for the grid heaters, besides the heaters not coming on. Would it set a DTC?

Your front axle is an open differential meaning you only get power to one wheel.

A few minor rules changes had to be made. New rules here: http://dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=968

You gotta get through your blizzard and then the flooding of the Red Riiver first!

Damn I wish I had the money for your centramatics. :cry:

Your truck shout start right up without cycling the grids when it is plugged in all night. Mine doesn't even hardly run the grids at all no matter what the temp is. Are you sure your heater is functioning? I had mine plugged in for three days and even the upper radiator hose had heat in it.

Do you have the truck plugged in?

The oil itself does not break down. It does not matter if you are looking at dino or synthetic oil. The additives become depleted and the oil holds solids in suspension and will get to the point of not being able to hold any more.

Be glad you aren't here..... Global warming my @$$. -17F as I type, supposed to warm up to about +10F tomorrow with up to 3" of snow then a HIGH on Sunday of -11F a low of -33F back to a high of -15F on Monday...... Up by the Canadian border it was -59F and the all time state record is -60F. Winter sucks.

Well, I do have places around there to stay (Windsor, Orwell, Hartsgrove). I spent quite a few winters there and if it got to zero it was real cold!

The first thig wrong with that type of two cycle is it uses a mechanical blower (parasitic loss) to pressurize the block for the intake. That causes oil to be pushed out in places you couldn't even imagine. About all you need to do is change the oil filter for an 'oil' change! When they were used in big trucks (v configuration) we called them "Double Breasted Yamahas". They remind me of some people I used to work with. They make a lot of noise but don't do much.

Oh yea...... 'dry' so it don't go through ya..... You guys want snow? Come and get all you want. We have had 136.8 inches of the white crap in the last 12 months. We even saw 50 inches just in the month of April. Temp tonight -22F and about -5F for a high tomorrow. I can't wait for it to warm up.....

10 mpg at 22k is not bad at all! Towing I normally get about 14 mpg at 60 mph, 12 mpg at 65 mph and 10 mpg at 70 mph. Actually the weight isn't a big factor in mileage unless there are a bunch of hills involved. The size of the load is a lot worse (wind resistance).

That buzzing does sound like the dreaded water hammer. Close your needle valve a bit more and see if it goes away. For your pyro, you would not be the first one I have heard about that the amplifier failed, but check the connections and clean the ground for it.

I have 3:54 gears. My truck seems to do just fine with them. You will get an increase in EGTs anytime you run into a headwind, crosswind, incline,etc. because the load is increased. When the engine speed climbs in a lower gear you are pumping a lot more air hence the reduction in EGTs. The load is the same no matter what gear it is in. When I am towing my fiver my set up weighs about 17k pounds so no matter what gear I am in the load is still 17k.

That is an old wive's tale. I put synthetic in mine at 175k miles and now at 289k with absolutely no issues, leaks, or blowby. You can switch to synthetics anytime you want.

I keep forgetting that I have a modified HX on my truck. I can't remember what was done, but I do recall being told the exhaust housing has been 'upgraded'.

I have learned that our trucks don't really play well with aftermarket brake light switchs. I am going to be on my fourth one soon as the weather warms some.

If the fuel is supposed to be good to -30* then it is a blended fuel. I would run that with some good antigell. Like W&F I have never ran straight #1 fuel. #1 fuel has higher cetane and less BTUs than #2 since it has less wax in it.

Your truck has been designed to run approx. 600* with normal driving. It sounds to me that you have a brake (or brakes) dragging. Mine at 60 mph runs at 550* and 0 to 1 psi boost. The reason you saw the EGTs drop when you went to a lower gear is because the engine was pumping more air than it was in a higher gear. My '12 VW TDI has a display that shows instant mileage and it always shows higher numbers in the highest gear it will pull in. That same concept was beaten into my head way back when I drove big trucks 30 years ago.

I use Amsoil in mine, but I just dump three gallons in and don't worry about the extra quart. I don't have to add any between oil changes, but one thing to remeber, Amsoil WILL clean your engine and any dirt that was blocking some oil leaks will be removed allowing oil to leak out. That is the biggest complaint that I hear as a dealer.

My daughter's '98 12v is the same way. Pressure gets below 20 psi and the gauge goes to zero.