Wild and Free

When you lock up the converter in 3rd does it all work ok? Is it only OD with thr problem then? It could have a bad OD clutch pack too. If its just the OD that section removes easily, just remove t-case and remove rear section of tranny which is the OD section. Drive it with OD off and see if the converter locks and holds good. if it seems to hold good then shift it to OD at high speed to see if it tries to engage OD. If thats when it slips then I would say OD clutchs are bad. To flush the coolers it is best to remove them and run a solvent or diesel through them in a backwards flow from normal. Or take them to a shop that works with radiators to get them properly flushed with equipment setup to do it.

Sounds like the lockup clutch in the converter died. It will not shift into OD because it has to see proper speeds and pressures which it will not attain if the Lockup clutch is slipping. I would not drive it anymore do to causing contamination damage to the rest of the tranny since there is clutch material floating through the system already. You will be needing to do a full flush including the coolers now also as that material will and probably already has plugged up the coller and or the heat exchanger which is the one on the passenger side of the block. Since you already saw high temps that could be the probles along with the lockup clutch slipping will heat things up in a real hurry.

Did you chaech the relays and fuses? Sounds like a bad converter if the electrical checks out.

The search engine does work here. I checked it out myself and found this in just a few seconds. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1135-Installing-Tranny-temp-gauge?highlight=sensor

No need to remove anything but the belt and drain coolant and it removes easily.

You do realize they "Lukes Links" are adjustable for wear with shims IIRC? You will be nothing but disappointed at the moog and out money you could Spend towards the 3rd gen upgrade and the problem will be a thing of the past.

Thats a good thing. If you have any amount of water I personally would be filling at a better fuel station.No water is the ideal situation.

Jack up the rear end with tranny in neutral and turn one tire they should both turn the same way and same speed then its LS. If its jacked up put it in park or in gear if manual and turn one tire, if you can't turn it then you have a limited slip. if it turns and the other turns opposite its an open diff. This works for the clutch style ls diffs. the newer 3ed gen helical gear ls units are not as easy to pick out as they will and do act like an open diff when trying the above technique.

I think Genos garage sells the kits also.

We hung at 3.99 for a long time and when it jumped it went to 4.13 - 4.19 now in Bismarck Mandan ND area.

There is no standard for meats. They should then show that they treat most all store meats with Carbon dioxide to keep it red forever. But thats not on the label.

Thanks, I will definately check it out some day. Hasn't happened in a while. But I do use the tilt a lot and was wondering about that.

My first 2nd gen I bougth brand new was a 95 1/2 ton reg cab longbox 4x4 and I traded it in at 110k miles on a 99 2500 lbqc v-10. My 95 I put 3 or 4 track bars on it in the time I had it. My 99 I had to replace it when I bought it as 25k miles and when I traded it on my 02 a year later it was shot already some were under warranty yet I used Moogs and they were no better. My 02 got the upgraded one once I learned of them when I first got internet access and found about forums. I would tell anyone wanting to save money to just go with Lukes links. I personally have not used them but know a few friends who have had good luck with them.

I can't comment without getting super political on this one.:banghead:

You guys all have really good roads. I couldn't get a stock or moog to last more than 20-30k miles on any of my three 2nd gens. Went with the 3rd gen conversion on my 02 and have had no issues since.

Not sure if I feel sick or hungry after watching this story about the use of meat glue. This needs to be copied and spread wide to educate and get everyone to start asking there butcher about it and let them know its not ok. Makes be glad I raise my own beef for butcher. All organic grass fed. http://www.infowars.com/meat-glue/

There is no typical. Every vehicle is different and the conditions all affect it greatly.

Being it is on the air filter intake side of the wheel you generally would not see the oil leak "If it had one" right there as it would be pulled into the aftercooler and engine. Like you said the stock air box has to go. Since there is no damage to the fins just clean it up good and put a different filter like a cold air intake or BHAF and be done with the problem.

Yep if you put your original ecm on the donor engine being it is an SO vp44 you will be good to go.

So you must have found it was a Kubota engine for sure then?

Because there are subtle differences in how they run gauges ect. It may start and run but some or all of the gauges will not work. I just went through this on a few other forums and this is what I learned as I bought a used ecm just as a spare and was looking for interchange info. Even if its the same year there are differences between manual and auto ecms. Was the rig you got the engine out of a 5 or 6 speed? Its Not a big deal to have it reflashed could do it just to have a spare ecm on hand. If it was an engine out of a 5 speed rig and you swap the ecm from your auto over then you will be fine and won't need to worry about a reflash but if it was a 6 speed rig you will need to reflash do to having a different vp44 than the autos and 5 speeds.

You won't break it, its just pipe thread. I wouldn't spend money for something you already have an extra of.

Doesn't look like physical damage or wear but what are you running for an air filter? That is classic K&N filter junk. or any other oiled filter that has been over oiled and deprived of proper servicing. Clean it out good and let us know what you are using for an intake system. Boost elbows are all pretty much the same thing, pick the cheapest and go with it.

Yep the ecm needs to match year and tranny type. Bob Wagner of Mads electronics "Smarty" will do ecm flashes also. Just need to send it in to him. Might be cheaper than dealership smartypower.com

Why do you need the fitting? Is it stripped out? If the other part is just broke off inside it you should be able to get the broke part out of it with some time and patience Its just aluminum and you should be able to use a small saw blade and or file to wittle thru it and it tears out pretty easy. might just try a pipe extractor. There is no difference in trannies they will swap in no problems. If you are getting a different tranny the fitting you need should be in the replacement. There is no reason to remove the fittings. DTT doesn't show the line thats why you need to contact them. But the factory one is what most go with. The DTT one is braided steel line and they claim it will be stronger and more reliable than factory as the factory ones are known to crack although I have yet to see one crack personally.