mopartechnician

What I would do is pull the downpipe off and see if you have oil out the exhaust side of the turbo, it only take 10 mins to do that. Also take the intercooler tube off of the turbo and see if there is oil coming out the charge side of the turbo. I don't believe he dusted the turbo, unless there is major play in the compressor wheel. You should be able to see where the vanes of the turbo are hitting the housing.

Where are you getting your solenoids from? I have been getting mine from cascade transmission parts (their website is down right now). If I remember right, the stock ones are about the size of a 5/8" socket and the ones I get are like 7/8 or 1" socket size. I have never had one go out after I installed them and they drastically change the way the truck shifts.

Common rails don't have the vacuum setup like the vp trucks do

Was he using a pressure box like an edge? Does he idle it alot? White smoke? Most likely he has an injector sticking and is washing down the cylinder. I have never seen a broken ring but its possible. I would do a compression and leakdown test if possible.

You can hook it right to the back of the filter. If you already have 1/2" line to the filter you will only need to change from the tank to thr pump depending on which one you get

Section 9 of your owners manual has a place to order them

Yours should be plain ol green fluid

I don't know why 35's and the 47 have anything to do with this

Have you pulled codes?A smarty won't help if your tranny is slipping

I set all my pumps to 18. The fuel is lubricating and cooling the vp44 so the more fuel you can supply to it the better. The return valve pops at 14psi so if you aren't above that then there isn't excess fuel to cool and lubricate http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/88-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve

What most likely is happening is the syn is breaking away the buildup that has kept your seals from leaking, they say there is additives in syn that are suppose to lubricate and swell the seals but it could take a year. I have seen it happen many times by switching over and like said before, I see no use or advantage in running syn. I ran it once in my wife 4.7 grand Cherokee just to see what it would do and I saw no mileage increase and actually smelled oil burning the 6K miles it was in there. Once I switch back to dino oil, I haven't smelled oil once. I run 15/40 year round in western Nebraska. If you have to change out the oil pan, you just have to take all the bolts out, then reach up in an unbolt the sump. Then the pan will pull right out without doing anything with the motor mounts. I would try tightening the bolts on the pan, also look at your crankcase vent bottle and vacuum pump for leaks.

I have installed many with the quick connects and, knock on wood, no leaks so far. I just ordered 2 ad2 165's and opened the one box for the one I am putting on my truck and seen the composite plates. I have been using that opening in the frame for the fuel line and wiring, I really like the way it cleans everything up. I also have a rubber cap that I put over the end of the fuel line to keep junk out of the line when pushing it through. Hopefully pureflow has got their poop in a group with these pumps

I started out using the paper fsm, but in 2005 I think they went to the electronic so I have used both, I actually like the electronic manuals because you can search and they are cheap. The best thing to do is maybe go to the dealers and see if they will sell any or watch ebay.

That's the problem with syn, if you have any leak, it will be 10 times as bad. I only run dyno oil because I see no need to syn unless you are doing extended oil changes.

My truck with 35's does 85+ easily

I'm gonna guess you don't know fuel pressure and you don't know if you have any codes.

If your adding filters, just go with an airdog, its the same setup but cheaper. Donaldson P551315 is a 3 micron Baldwin BF1275 is the best water separator Baldwin PF7977 in the stock housing is 5 micron http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/150422-3rd-gen-popular-fuel-filter-data.html

I would get a raceme programmer and exhaust. Trust me you won't go wrong with it. Its very easy to download the programming also. http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=categorie&cat=1

I pretty much answered your questions in your other post.

The fittings are tapered so they don't need sealant. I never installed any whenever I do any gauges. The only one to use is anti-seize if you plan on removing the egt probe, but I have also removed them before with no problems.

Here is a write-up I did on my 3rd gen 2 micron filter setup. This will kind of give you an idea on what the fittings are. Now that I read it, I see I am using 3/8" fuel line and -6 jic fittings. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/477364-my-2-micron-fuel-filter-setup.html

Most common problem with abs/brake light is the rear wheel speed sensor. Now with the noise you are hearing, I would unplug the abs module and turn the key on to see if the noise goes away. The intake heater relays will make a loud clunk noise when they turn off and on also.

Thats where i got all my parts for my 2 micron filter setup and big line kit for my 3rd gen. They have everything you need and at the right price

I cant find it in the service manual. The only thing I found was the a/c light flashing during a a/c performance test that is performed with the drb. If the test fails, then the light keeps flashing. I would probably try unhooking the batteries and ground out the power wire to drain all the memories. And also unhook the hvac controller and see if there are any burnt wires or pins.

Looks like fuse F. From what i see it runs the lights to cluster and radio. Also to your switch and to the turn signal/ park lights