volkswagon

Wow that is a lot more than I would've expected:stuned: I guess i need to get myself a scanguage to monitor that.

What happens to fuel consumption with the 3 cyl versus the 6?

Not sure if I follow what you're asking but you install the needle valve into the fitting and the sender onto the needle valve. Or run a grease gun hose from the needle valve and put your sender on the end of that to further dampen the water hammer.

I like that:lmao: But I feel for you. I had to do tires, then within a week my lift pump died, then about a month later the tranny quit:spend:

Still no replies, can anybody help as I have not found a solution on my own.

I guess I'm confused again because I thought the HX35 was the turbo with the flexible waste gate control pipe but what you're saying is the one that needs the J-hook is the HX turbo.

Now I'm having problems with getting power to it. I got power from where Edge says to in the instructions but after I've had the truck shut of for a while and restart it the thing won't power up. I have to disconnect the power source and reconnect it and i'm good to go. It will power up if I only shut the truck off for a little bit but not if it is off for any length of time. Seems pretty strange to me but maybe somebody has an idea.

My thoughts too:thumbup2: --- Update to the previous post... Personally I'd shy away from that Lucas stuff. I know a guy from around here who blew his 5.9 cummins and he blames it on that stuff. It is so stiff in the cold that he figures he didn't get proper lube where it needed it.

I paid $4.12 today and the guy said he should have change the pump to $4.20 already:broke:

Is that turbo in the above picture an hy or hx?

Thanks Moparman. I went back to the shop and found it right away. Wow that little box livens up the truck!

Where is the data link connector to hook up my edge comp? I've spent a lot of time looking but no find. Is it a loose connector or is it connected to something and I have to disconnect it? I did find a loose 4 pin connector but it does not match what the comp came with.

Thanks:thumbup2: by the looks of ISX's chart I have 3.55's

Is there a way to find out what gear ratio my truck's diff has? I know I could call a dealer with the VIN but I was wondering if there was any other way.

My edge comp will be arriving in a day or 2 so I'll be needing to get a boost elblow. How do those things work, it seems to me that by just turning the set screw in to restrict the flow of air to the diaphram you would just prolong the waste gate from opening, not prevent it. I do some pretty heavy towing in summer so if I pull at high boost for long enough won't the pressure build beyond the elbow to a point where the waste gate open and I loose the advantage?

Looks like I should move south, I've paid $1.06 a Litre recently which is $4.01 per US gallon:cry: Having said that I can get dyed fuel ( farm use only ) for a about $3/US gallon so that's what I do mostly.

Thanks guys. I got er done. And I didn't even have to pull the shocks, just disconnected the top and pushed it down and pulled the spring:smart: But when I was under there I discovered that I'm due for some ball joints:banghead: So what should I be ordering for parts? Over on CF I read about some sort of offset ball joints or something that are supposed to help with steering wander. Anybody use them or know about this?

I'm wanting to start changing my front springs soon and wondering if there's anything I should be aware of before I start, like how long does it take, any special tricks to doing it etc.

I see I forgot to include RPM-1600Winterfront-no

Is there supposed to be a picture or video in the first post? I'm not seeing anything so I'm wondering if somethings wrong here.

Here's what I had today coming home from town. EGT-625Boost-5 psiSpeed-60 mphTemp,+8*FYear-2000Truck-2500, 47re trans with HX turbo

I had mine mounted right at the vp44 but couldn't control it so I added a grease gun hose to get the sensor farther away and she's good now:thumbup2:

What I did when I had problems getting enough heat was flush the heater core. I filled a 5 gallon pail nearly full of hot water and mixed in a bunch of rad flush stuff, hooked a little pump to one side of the heater core, and circulated it thru for a while. Sure did the trick for me but I also knew my blend door was moving some at least since I could get lukewarm air.