AH64ID

Just think how much you could improve the mileage by selling it!16-17 is pretty good for a TBI 1/2 ton, don't think we ever broke 13 on our TBI 350 chevy.

Put about 225 miles on the truck yesterday. We hit some hot springs on the Middle Fork of the Boise, then went Christmas tree hunting N of Idaho City. We hit snow, ice, and dirt. I am quite happy with the settings on the Jr! And I still had plenty of power for passing in short passing spots on the local roads!

I have put a few miles on it since getting it finished up. With both the WAI and OEM holes open there was a nice improvement at slow speeds, but at higher speed's there wasn't even a degree difference. So I then tried blocking off the OEM hole a little and it made a difference. I run about 5°-20° warmer under most diving, including at 65 mph. So between the WAI and winter front my IAT's think is early summer! Now to see if it makes a difference on mileage, but either way it will help the motor stay warmer on super cold days with a light load.

It wouldn't be all that hard, but you would have to change ECM's or get a tuner like the Smarty and ask MADS for the file to make your truck think it's a manual.

They are either manual trans trucks or confused owners. It is very common for owners to think the 48RE is a 5 speed because the OD lockup is so abrupt it's like a 5t

Did you ever get good measurements on the small turbo?

Dodge never offered a 5 speed and there is no stand alone controller for a 68RFE or Aisin yet.. So your options would be sell and buy a 6.7 or maybe www.destroked.com has the controls needed to run a stand alone Allison.

low 7 figures....

Home Depot, or Lowes.. this morning. --- Update to the previous post... Well my PVC cement is cement in the can.. but here is the pre-fit.. It will draw air from over the coolant and boost hose, both of which radiate some heat! When I was pulling grades this summer and had a temp sensor outside the OEM airbox the under-hood temps would go up 40-50° with increased/sustained boost and more coolant flow from a closer, or fully, open thermostat. --- Update to the previous post... Finished, and quite an easy change.. I am going to call it the "HD Warm Air Mod".. I'll get results this weekend.

The T700 is under 500 lbs and there are versions with 2,000 shp!

Yesterday I modded both of my gas rigs.. and it was easy. The VW has a 2 piece ducting that direct airflow from the grill to the air box, I simply removed it and now it can draw air from the engine bay. I haven't driven it with the SGII yet to see if it made a difference. On the 4runner I just removed the 3" tube between the fender and air box, got about 10-15° rise over what it was. Instead of putting another hole in my OEM box I am going to modify my Home Depot CAI. I am going to put a "T" in it, that can be plugged in summer and open in winter. It's a little bigger hole than I wanted, but it will also be about 6" lower and the temp should be a little cooler down there. Best part is that I don't have to pull the air box to do the work. Pulling the air box sucks as I have my winch power solenoid bolted to it and it's a PITA to access those bolts.

Based on what happened to my buddy with his '11 and outer wear I wouldn't be surprised if it's the culprit, or part of. Does the banks replace the torque tube?

It has always been controllable with the manual.. but I have all these tuning options so I may as well use them :-)The lower TQ just effects the low speed operation and isn't noticeable above about 30 mph, and PoD is changeable on the fly.. so really I still have my 400 rwhp tune loaded, it's just not as harsh on the tires... which is good as my winter tires are the $$ ones!I only use PoD a few times a year, hunting and off road has been it, but thought I would try it for winter this year. What PoD does is re-map the throttle.. So at PoD 70 my WOT TPS single is like 70 with the PoD at 99. So each of the 99 positions on the TPS is really only 70% of a normal TPS signal..just makes it a little less sensitive and since I rarely go WOT I won't notice it other than it takes a little more pedal and is easier to control on slick surfaces (or dirt, which is where I normally run PoD 50). Why do you guys have snow, its crystal clear down here

I just checked the cross on that filter and it's the cross to a BF1212 so it's should be about 20um absolute.. so about as loose as you can get. They are only rated for about 90 GPH, but then again that's all you can really get in a 1-14"..

It's the reason OEM's went to filter minders and in-cab indications for air filters vs the old mileage routine.. better filtration. If you think about it the dealerships are making less money on the new system, so you know it wasn't a $$ venture.

If you think it's filter related the BF1212 is a 20 um filter and may help if the fuel is thick, but I am not sure that's your issue. When you first start the truck can you see the feed line collapsing under pressure?How cold has it been?Have you tried slow-blow fuses? Or a 40 amp fuse to see if your really overpowering the system or just tapping the 30 amp range? If your voltage is lower (grid heater) and the motor draws the same amount of juice the amp requirement goes up.

Have you upgraded your trucks ECM software recently?I know that later VP trucks (if not all) would just have a short prime then shut the pump off until the motor was running. The VP doesn't like to start with high inlet pressure.

Yes a filter is cheaper than an overhaul.. but if your average filtration rate is lower you will be overhauling from "dusting" sooner.

I personally never see a difference from SW, just from TM.. SW seems to make a big difference on the auto's, but normally not much for most manual trans trucks. --- Update to the previous post... Just went for a short drive.. wow those setting took a lot of the snap out of the truck.

While I was changing my spare out to my winter spare and re-tuning my Smarty today I closed the opening on my HD CAI... now to look into installing that 2" deckplate.

Yeah, I want to see where mine sits with the OEM slop.

I agree.. can't beleive how much of a difference tires make on my little car.. goes from scary to glued to the road. Tires are not the issue for me (got those taken care of), it's the higher clutch engagement torque and more aggressive throttle response than stock.. I didn't have a traction issue when I was on the lower Smarty Jr settings, but usually turn the PoD and TQ down becuase it drives a lot nicer on lower traction roads.. but have never tried stock torque or PoD below 80.. Just going to see how it drives.

This is my first winter since I have been running SW3 exclusively, but don't want my normal setting for snow/ice.. so here is what I am going to try. SW3 TM2 TQ1 PoD 70.. it should still have plenty of go-juice if I need it, but less low end (mainly weaker throttle response) for more traction from a stop.

I have developed a slight pull to the right, and all my alignment specs are within spec... I though it was a BJ on it's way out.. but now you have me thinking. 72K on the OEM one, with lots of windy dirt roads.

Whenever I replace my OEM damper with a fluidampner I am going to inspect my OEM sensor and see where in the movement it fits. I may move it full fwd (without drilling) and see if it does anything.