AH64ID

Boost leaks can’t happen at cruise? This is a NEW issue for the OP. Still changing the symptoms to fit your fix.... this is how issues get created where they don’t exist. Look to fix the easy stuff first....

Never said you didn’t, just simply said that it’s not that solution to every problem. Its likely not the OP’s problem based on his symptoms and progression of symptoms.... yet you’re trying to make it his problem, and an expensive one at that. You need to get past the most recent thing you did to your truck when talking about other problems. You always relate your truck and use to everyone’s problem, and if they aren’t setup just like you they are wrong.... it’s clockwork and if you don’t believe me just go threw some old threads. It’s getting really old reading about how people need to make their truck just like yours. A guy asks about 3rd gen brakes, you tell him to get an exhaust brake because your pads have x miles on them.... you didn’t answer any of his questions, just told him to make his truck like yours. Guy has recently increased EGT’s... here comes the tiny tires and final gearing from your truck. Those are just off the top of my head, pre-coffee ? Really, look at what people are asking and giving you for information and work with that, not the difference between your truck and theirs. You want people to pay for this site then give them meaningful and appropriate advice, and start with the cheap fixes not the expensive ones.

Already posted.... You're too busy telling the OP to regear you’re missing the rest of the thread. These EGT issues are new... Ever since you swapped to 245’s it’s amazing how many people have gearing issues. It’s like you feel the need to justify those tiny tires to yourself. Sure some people have gearing issues, but not as many as you want us to think.

The gearing didn’t change to create his issue... but you can keep ignoring that and we’ll keep up with legitimate eye rolling. Ever heard the phrase, can’t see the forest for the trees??? Lets keep making issues where there aren’t any... thou I’m starting to realize that’s the unspoken motto of @Mopar1973Man. Everything doesn't have to be a huge problem....

Not apples to oranges, more Gala’s to Granny Smith’s. Turbo’s work on exhaust flow, and plenty of exhaust flow at 2000 rpms for the OP’s turbo. Lower final Gearing won’t increase airflow at 2000 rpms. Trying to compare a recent change in EGT’s to a constant gearing is apples to oranges thou.

OP, look for a boost leak, check your air intake, intercooler cleanliness, etc. Since it’s a recent development it’s likely an airflow issue. @Mopar1973Man not everything is a gearing problem, thou it’s your go to fix. He stated it’s a recent change in EGT’s, and his load doesn’t indicate it’s a gearing problem... but I do find it funny it’s your go to for anyone running taller tires on a 3.55’s, even what came stock at times. 275/70R18’s are the OE 4th gen size, and they come with 3.42’s and double OD’s. The VGT does help low rpm performance, but a 5.9 can handle that combo at 80 and not be lugging, since it’s 2000 rpms with 3.55s and a 47RE.

I thought the vacuum system on these engines was completely independent of crankcase pressure?? With an external vacuum pump how would a vacuum leak manifest with additional blowby?

55/40 would be my WAG for a CCSB 2nd gen, but that’s only a guess.

By weight is the best way. I like this chart as it has most sizes in it. https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf

Having driven both, it’s not a fair comparison between the two.. the 6 speed is in a different league for low-mid range towing speeds. The extra gear is very noticeable, especially with the fairly small rpm band of a diesel. I always wanted a 7 speed in my 05. I rarely had gear spacing issues in the 2-4 range, but often 5th was too low and 6th was too tall. A double OD 7 speed would fix that with a .85 6th and .68 7th.

Two very different upgrades. Personally I'd do both on a 2nd gen. Better service brakes are always a plus, and an exhaust brake is invaluable. If pads/rotors are being replaced anyways the 3rd gen brake upgrade isn't an expensive mod. Not a fair comparison with your current driving routine. Mostly highway miles without traffic or a trailer will greatly extend the brake life over the "average" driving conditions.

Those are the symptoms if high return flow, not if an injector stuck open. A stuck injector will typically have excessive smoke and knock. A stuck CR injector will often melt a piston as the initial damage, after that all bets are off. The poor piston design in 04.5-07 5.9s leads to excess carbon build up, and then rings fail. More ring issues in 06-07 thou, not sure if it’s the difference in valve lash or what. Tuning is the same. This is the reason many rebuild with 03-04 pistons and injector nozzles. Bad rings will manifest in the OP’s manner, and the injectors are likely just fine.

It does suck, and they are expensive.... but paying the labor 2-6 times in 20K miles is still more money.

I’m looking for recommendations for a couple different sets of LED lights. I’m installing a front receiver between my tow hooks and wanting to put a LED light bar on either side of the receiver. Hoping I can find a quality one that’s approx 1.5”x8” in a flood pattern. Then for the rear I’m looking for flush mount 2”x2” square LED lights. Any recommendations?

I’m surprised you only replaced one with that many miles on them. He won’t be happy when he has to do the rest. Very few shops will swap just 1 with that kind of mileage on them. The others generally fail in short order and the labor bill is doubled for the owner.

Stainless are also good options, but generally a decent amount more cash. Nothing wrong with a nice 3 piece at a good price. I ran a used 2 piece on my 05 and would again over the cost of stainless.

I would still weigh the trailer, but either way it’s well within what the truck can handle. Stock can run hotter safely. I really haven’t noticed too much of a difference in coolant temp vs EGT’s, just total power vs coolant temp. More power means more heat, regardless if the EGT’s are 1000° or 1200°.

In stock form the only thing that can really get too high is the trans temp. EGT’s should be fine where ever they are stock. Get some miles towing and then you have a baseline. Where is the pyro installed? Good rules led of thumb for modified engines is 1250° continuous and 1350° momentary if the pyro is pre-turbo. Stock engines can, and will, run hotter due to stock timing being more retarded than a modified motor. Retarded timing means more heat out the exhaust and less heat absorbed by the piston/cylinder... thus safer at higher EGT’s. It’s the equivalent of running rich in the gasser world.

Can’t have it all... income usually detracts from free time, and probably not the worst thing to complain about.

A compression test would tell you if it’s the rings.

Sounds more like broken rings than gelled fuel. What injectors did you install? Blow-by is not caused by injectors, as there has to be a physical path for the combustion gasses to follow to the crank case

The 05 had final charge in it. It’s a Peak product.

Interesting.

What makes the combustion incomplete? We only see this with excessive idle on a cold motor... aside from early 6.7’s.

I would do this test, and see what it says. The analysis will tell you if you're getting combustion blowby into the coolant, and it will tell you if you need to do any maintenance on the coolant. https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/LT36268.pdf