notlimah

We don’t need your sound logic and judgement round here! *puts tin foil hat on* To the OP. If I were to be redoing things again today, I’d get an Airdog through Eric at Vulcan just because Eric at Vulcan. I trust him personally to make things right if something were to ever go wrong more than either company combined.

I’d get this and call it a wrap http://www.vulcanperformance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=PLT82

So you don’t like the setup or the size? Ive had zero issues with road debri and can’t speak much on gelling as I’m not in as cold a climate. Either way, mounted in that general area, which both companies tell you to do, will expose them to just about the same amount of elements. Not everyone wants to install them where you did yours Mike. Putting a shield in front of the pump wouldn’t be difficult either if debri and cold was that big a concern.

Thanks bud, that was on a clean install though so everything looks extra clean haha! Sure I’ll take some from the front to show the return. Give me a day or two but mainly I just wanted to route the hoses up and over the frame as soon as possible so they’d be left exaposed as little as possible to anything that could get stuck up in there.

If you’re worried about the 90s restricting flow you could always get other fittings from Vulcan or somethin. I have one 90 on my long bed. I think it just made the most sense to use it due to how I wanted to run my hosing but it’s been a while now since I’ve done it. Either way you’ll be fine.

That can’t be Jon, not enough ATF on him. Glad you were able to make it out there, and I’m sure your truck is too!

I’m not sure you need to flush it. As long as your trans lines are being flushed it should be fine.

Oh... I wasn’t implying that was the OP’s point of view. Just saying in general most people choose the SO pump given then choice because of the hp gainzzz

Should definitely be unlocking. Do you have any sort of external lock up switch? If not, I’d be talking to your trans builder and asking questions.

This. Most times that’s all people seem to care about.

Agreed. They may have been unhooked by the PO because they didnt want to use them, or because they weren’t working properly. I’d plug in the relay first to verify it’s working right, then move to the heater. If you want new parts look on Geno’s, they have it all.

@W-T Link to the batteries you’re using??

Do you have to measure the amperage draw to determine if the units shot? I thought I remembered reading it was just checking resistance? EDIT: found it http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm

Drawstraw 5 and quad xzt. Although I’m back and forth between the quad and smarty.

Seems weird. Rated to 500? My current trans was built to hold 550-600ish and i was told it wasn’t needed. I did do it just because I wanted everything done but curious as to the rating being what it is compared to stock.

Yea things are starting to become a bit cloudy. I think some actual mods to the trucks electrical setup with before and after of how the electrical behaved before versus after are what we need now. I have replaced aced all of my battery and ground cables with bigger and better quality stuff so I can help as needed, just let me know. If the grids really are what you think they are @Mopar1973Man then why not just change them out and find out for sure?

I’m not entirely convinced that Cummins engineers designed a system this flawed. I just think they didn’t expect people to be using these trucks as long as we are and just as time progresses, parts become outsourced to other countries and quality drops, so does the longevity. I think a mostly stock (electrically speaking) truck with a well made alternator, new/like new wiring, grid heater within tolerances, all connections/grounds cleaned and good batteries will work just fine for a long time as proven by a few of you. It’s pesky ol time that’s making this equation difficult. I still think the grid cycling is tough on the entire system given how much power it’s producing. Keeping quality parts going into these trucks isn’t as easy as it used to be and that might be the ultimate issue.

@Mopar1973Man It could just be other parts deteriorating. Could be grid heater itself, the relay, wiring it’s just harder to diagnose those smaller things. Also could be that parts just aren’t made like they used too.

^^^ see!

Rockauto has stock flex plates. I’d spend the extra hundred somethin on a Goerend flex plate before I bought the one you listed. I’d just prefer either stock, or go with the one you know will perform without question, especially when it comes to your trans.

Man you could’ve got away with just saying ‘everything’

@W-T So that alternator drops right into the factory spot, and doesn’t need a different pulley or anything? If so, mighty impressive. It really seems as thought the problem is the grid heaters. What else could it be really? Mikes example of his 96 is pretty solid evidence that the same alternator in an application without grids works for that long! Only other factor could be weak batteries and the charging they’d need. I think @W-T has got the fix for anyone wanting to keep using grids and not have issues in the future.

How much fab work is needed to mount that alternator? The thing looks impressive, but then I saw the price tag! Also, how the F did you get and keep your engine bay so clean?!?

That’s good to hear!

I’ve heard the stories of terrible wait times and bad customer service but I didn’t experience that at all. I ordered their track bar, it was in stock at the time, and it shipped fairly quick. I had an issue when installing the track bar and needed some insight from Danny. At the time I only knew how to get ahold of him via email, he replied back within an hour and got me set straight. It seems the bigger or more custom the order, the longer the wait gets. Although, a year seems pretty rediculous. I hope he was at least in contact with you throughout that time to let you what the delays were after spending that kind of money!