notlimah

Is anyone else sorta loosing the nostalgia that is and was roadkill in the ‘earlier’ days? Seems much more a production then what it started off, which was what the major appeal to me was. I’ve actually been enjoying watching finnegan’s YouTube channel more lately.

Ahh, well either way, I don’t think these guys will blow their stock trans using a lockup switch, you just need to know how/when to use it, and just know that you’re at least running a risk of damage with a stock trans doing things these trans don’t do stock. I know you’ve been around these trucks long enough to know more then the average guy so I’m sure all this goes without saying.

If I'm remembering this correctly, the truck won’t lock in 2nd on a stock valve body when the gear selector is in 2nd. It mechanically locks a stock valve body from locking up. If you try to lock in 2nd with the truck in D, it WILL lock on a stock valve body. I’m sure you can see why that’ll be a problem.

You really need to check the codes. For it to just start smoking real bad and then all the sudden die could be a few problems. Try and get a scanner so you can at least see what that says and save yourself some money instead of taking it to a mechanic. We should be able to walk you through just about anything you’re comfortable doing yourself.

My guess is he technology just wasn’t there when these trucks were rolling off the line. Any time you left off the throttle when the trucks in D rpm will drop tomidle and the truck will coast with the only resistance being the friction between the tires and the road. Obviously it’ll hold back a bit if you drop it down a gear and are headed down a hill but it does it better when dropped in the appropriate gear and can keep the TC locked. I understand you know the differences but trying to give you an idea of how the trans runs since you haven’t driven one *inserts slight jealously here.* I will say, the automatic trans in the 4th gens with automatic exhaust brake, primo!

I’d scan for codes, sounds like something in the trans isn’t happy.

Arent you on a built trans? I personally don’t worry about it but I’ve had it built so I wouldn’t need to worry. I just think it’s good for people to know the potential risks, not saying it’s for certain.

When slowing (on my truck at least) it’ll hold gear until I left off the switch. It WILL downshift when locked if you mash the pedal. Obviously not ideal, and I didn’t think it would, but I found out it would lol. Typically if I was doing anything WOT or close to it I don’t mess with the switch until I’m ready for it to lock in 4th.

Wow those are pretty neat. Definitely going to keep these in mind next time I need some more connectors.

You either have the OD off so you know once it’s in third you can lock it and it won’t shift to 4th or have OD on and lock once in 4th.

I agree @JAG1, locked 3-4 shifts way smoother then when I let the truck do it on its own. Ill just say this... from my many talks with Jon I remember him saying something along the lines of a lockup switch when used incorrectly can damage even a built trans but if used right can be fine for either. So I’d say just use good judgement for what your trans has and you’ll be fine.

Hose clamps my friend! I usually take a paper towel and grab anywhere there could be a potential leak with the engine running. That’s a good enough sanity check for me to say no leaks.

Guess it couldn't hurt to double check your return spring to make sure it hasn’t got bunched up using the washer and is causing bigger fluctuations then expected. I’d also check the integrity of the return ball as well. Any sort of noticeable grooves or markings from the spring can cause it to give way more then it should and your fuel pressure will become erratic. I’ve had both scenarios happen to me. I wouldn’t assume your quad gauge would be faulty either, but a 30 dollar mechanical gauge to verify whether those pressure swings are being exaggerated or not via the electronic gauge is much more appealing to me then 5-hundo on a new pump. Have you thoroughly checked there’s zero leaks on the supply side? Even a tiiiiny one could cause a bigger swing. I assume you're also running 1/2in line on the airdog return line to the tank right? Just trying to think of everything cheaper than a new pump lol

Anytime you’re seeing fuel pressure drops like that, first thing I think of is what size fuel lines you’re running? If you’re 1/2in all around then I’d say double check the regulator (however your pump has it setup). Then I’d double check my gauge to make sure it’s reading correctly. If I had the fuel system open recently I’d leave it be for a bit to let the air work itself out. If all that’s been checked good, then I’d been leaning on the pump possibly being on the way out.

If I were you and I was gonna install a lockup switch, I’d only use it to hold 3rd or 4th locked, no shifting. Locked shifts are tough on the input shaft from what I understand so I’d want to avoid that without having a billet piece in there. Easy enough to make sure you stay in the right gear using the od button. That’s just my ! I’m sure plenty have done more with less then you have and gotten away with it forever.

Yea this is like what I think Mike made the most apparent for the longest time on these trucks! Torque converter hunting is almost always an alternator issue putting out too much AC noise.

Nice, I’ve been debating on just buying a fuel module from Eric just to solve my low fuel level issues. Glad to hear it’s working out for you.

Hah! You know it!!

No big deal man, just givin ya a hard time!

Heyyyy I mentioned it too!! But seriously, that’s probably the most important reason. When I’m using my lockup switch and towing a travel trailer for instance, I can keep my trans temp below 145 pretty easily even in town.

One big variable is how much work has been done on the trans. This will dictate what gears it’ll lock in, and what gears the trans can shift to and from without causing damage. Most people use it to have a locked 3rd-4th shift which is nice. I have my trans setup so I can also downshift from 4th-3rd locked no problem. The other main reason/scenario people use the switch is for slower speed pulls up hills either in a steep grade that the truck just can’t pull in 3rd so you’d naturally drop into 2nd. Being able to lock in 2nd to keep your trans temp down when hauling can save you some headaches. Last scenario is like @JAG1 mentioned and using the lockup switch as a sort of engine brake, which is does a surprisingly good job at.

Here’s another one from that same day.

I went with 4th gen 17’s. I personally don’t like the look of 18’s on 2nd gens and I got a good deal on them so I figured eff it lol. Heres a side profile of mine.

Yup Here’s a link to the kit options. http://custombatterycables.com/application/dodge_ram.htm

There’s certain things I’m more willing to pay a bit extra for to have someone do them right for me, crimping/soldering those big *** wires is one of them.