notlimah

It could definitely be that simple, even with low miles. The biggest help on mine was the track bar and steering box brace. Still had a little slop after that which was fixed up with new steering arms and steering box. Sorry to hear about all the medical issues.

Trying to explain things like 'harsh shifting' over a forum is really tough because everyone has a different definition of the word. I will say that while mine will shift firm when low throttle, it's no where near harsh. You definitely know it shifted, and it's really pronounced but I couldn't describe it anywhere near harsh or violent. The more I'm towing or the harder I accelerate empty, the smoother it is.

The smarty won't store speedo settings once you put everything back to stock. The second gear being harsh sounds like a valve body/line pressure thing to me. I had Jon specifically build mine to shift better when towing. It shifts smoother with a load or when I'm around 50% throttle or more. 1-2 can be firm with low throttle (ie slow acceleration) but anytime you get on it fairly decent it shifts butter smooth. Now that I've been running the smarty the shift from 1-2 has really mellowed out I assume because of the higher throttle position earlier in the pedal movement but it's been a good compromise. Before it was definitely firm, but not spine jolting. My converter will idle the truck around at a decent pace but won't shift, that definitely sounds odd. Sounds like something either electronic or valve body related to me but that's just a guess. Also, if your truck is shifting at 17-1800 WOT from a stop 1-2, you should adjust your able so you're seeing around 2800rpm. That could be why you're seeing such early/stacked shifts.

Sounds like quite the adventure!

I get your point, makes sense for sure! I'll definitely look into bigger injectors with the quad.

Yea I understand the limitations of canbus tuners and it's pretty reasonable to say that no one tuner or stack will gain a TON more power then the other, possibly slightly more one way or another but nothing largely notable. I was just just looking for more info into seeing if it was even worth entertaining. I will definitely keep the smarty but will probably look into some slightly larger injectors and a quad in the future, as was my plan all along lol.

Oh well, charging system doesn't seem to be having a problem, all voltage looks good. Only thing I can think of is the alternator possibly on the way out (I'll have to check ac noise soon) or my batteries are finally on their last leg and throwing a weird code. Either way I'll let it go until something more obvious comes up to point me in a better direction.

Yea I have no problem keeping the smarty strictly as a code reader and speedo correction but was just wanting some more insight into this combo, thanks guys!

I'm not suggesting that it'd be a set and forget, but simply that there's less features to tune with that stack then there are on the quad, therefore making things 'easier' in that regard, but I fully understand tweaking is neccesary regardless of tuner. I think my main reason for even entertaining it is because I already have a smarty which I like for the speedo fix, code reader and helping friends if needed. Would rather not have another screen up on the dash as a 'gauge' of sorts. Also from what I've read, the smarty/tst stack was the most powerful stack. As as far as injectors, I'm sort of thinking 7x.009's possibly?? But was planning on going through infinite performance and was going to sorta trust their judgment on what size would work. Overall power goals I'm not looking to have more then 450-500, even low 400 would be fine. Can this stack be tuned to low smoke? Can it tow? Is it a decent daily tune? Didnt @TFaoro run this setup for a while?

So after just picking up a smarty, I got to wondering if I should just look into getting a TST and being done with it. I know quad is the go to tuner around here for its ability to tune out smoke and get any one setup to run great. But if someone doesn't want to test and tweak setting to get them just right, is the smarty stack still a good one? Pros/cons?

Whoops, realized I pasted the same code link. Second one should be updated in my first now, it's P0622. I didn't follow any troubleshooting yet because I wanted to see if this was normal for having a lock up switch installed. The 0622 code is a weird one and I don't have a scan tool that can do freeze frame (unless obdii can??) so I read through and eventually it gets to replacing the PCM based on resistance being too high/low, so got me wondering if that's just another byproduct of having the switch spliced into it?

Nothing??

I think it's needed on the older models or truck with bigger tires right?

08+ and whatever's cheapest, I think at the time I got mine from rockauto

Sounds good. Really hoping you can get the truck up and running so she's reliable for you again! I think I'll end up going with injectors for IP as well, just going to have to talk to them about a more 'normal' size then what they seem accustomed to making haha!

I had Jon give me the works on my trans and there was no break in period for the TC. Basically just a don't be a moron time lol.

https://mopar1973man.com/forum/167-classifieds/

Hey guys, recently picked up a smarty so in the process of tuning and changing tire size, I checked my DTCs and got a couple I hadn't seen before so looking for a sanity check on these. First one is I'm curious if this is a typical code to expect since I'm using a lock up switch? Seems like it, but some assurance would be nice. Second is Does this relate to the lockup switch as well? Or something else? My alternator seems to be doing it's job. Appears to come up with at least 12-ish volts prior to start and gets the needle up over 14 when driving so appears to be charging. What else should I be looking for? FWIW, I've cleared both codes and they come back every time.

Sounds like the stall is too low to me. Or things aren't setup right internally. I imagine if things are an 1/8 in or so out of line in there it could jam things up. When @Dynamic put mine together he was saying he trims things back to make things fit more appropriately. Hopefully he'll chime in with a factual answer then just my speculation lol.

Looks good man. Those injectors are from infinite performance right?

Awesome man, thank you for your service and dedication to our country!

I'm not sure how Airdog runs their lines. What's the instructions say? You will still use one of the small return lines from the metal piping coming from the overflow of the VP and overflow from injectors at the back of the head. The other small line is the old supply line (mine had a blue clip and arrow pointing away from the fuel module) and you can scrap that line, or leave it. Just plug that hole so nothing can get inside your tank. More then likely will need to either modify your fuel basket with fittings to run your new supply and return lines from the Airdog. Or you put a hole in your tank and use that as a pickup (aka old school draw straw method) and cut your fill tube and run the return line there. ***added pics for reference of how mine looked***

Good thought!

Not sure I follow. Are you saying the converter was rebuilt? Or your not sure of the converters stall because it was rebuilt before you bought it?

What stall is the converter? Pretty sure I've read people having this issue with 'super-ultra-mega' low stall converters and what not. Mine will give a good buck when dropping it into reverse for the first time in the morning and does drop the rpm a bit but never came close to stalling.