notlimah

If by local shop you mean HIS shop, then yup he does haha!

The fix(es) are in this thread, what's weird is that non of them have worked for you. Dodge (AFAIK) hasn't put out any sort of TSB related to this, or at least not one that's come back to be the permanent fix. Besides, this isn't really a 'Dodge' issue, this is just what happens when you have these trucks on the road for so long, these problems start to come up.

Gotcha. So my follow on question is with the quad being able to clean up injectors much bigger then most would've thought possible, would the recommendation now be leaning more towards the 6 hole injectors and utilizing the quad to clean things up? Just trying to wrap my head around this a little better as I'm going to get new injectors and a quad soon and am curious as to what combination I should be looking at. I may just need to start my own thread on it lol.

So without getting to deep in the 6 vs 7 hole debate, running 6x.013 vs 7x.012 would the 7 be considered 'cleaner' and the 6 'more powerful'?

What are you running @jlbayes?

I don't see what could hurt by doing any of that, especially if it's been 90k since the last time the bands have been adjusted. I imagine that front band is going to need it.

@Me78569 that's crazy, never knew that about those pumps. @rogerash0 if you want a 'drop in' I think the closest you'll get is a FASS. It should be pretty close, I think the only things you'd need to swap would be the harness and possibly some of the fittings going into the pump itself. As as far as pressures I agree 100% that pressure should be the same where you're getting it as it would be closer, just was another option, but sounds like this may just be these pumps downside. I've had zero issues with my FASS.

Just wouldn't want to risk a locked up or down shift on stock internals. I'm also not sure if stock VB line pressure supports lock up or not but if I were using a LU switch (and I do) I'd want to make sure everything was setup to support it. Just my opinion, and why I said I wouldn't recommend it but everyone's free to do what they want with their trucks.

Nick were you seeing the same amount of psi drop in your setup? From what I understand the Airdog and FASS pumps are basically identical (with slight differences) as they started as a family company then split. If I were you @rogerash0 I'd trying checking the pressure from somewhere else with a different gauge. I know I'm theory the pressure where you're reading it should/will read the same as it would 6ft down the line towards the VP44, but I think that's the absolute last thing you can do besides a different pump all together. I just can't believe that you're loosing that much psi with everything you've done to the plumbing.

Where was that gauge tapped into to get those readings?

Have you double checked your fuel psi with a different gauge or reading from a different area? Seems you listed just about everything else you could change except that.

Maybe it's trans itself. I've heard some hit or miss things from ATS

Well you could always get the 3 gauge a-pillar mount and put it there. I'm not sure mechnical is neccesarily better then electric, just most agree mechanical to be more reliable but I think if you're going with isspro you'll be fine either way. I know @Mopar1973Man is doing just fine with his electric ev2's from isspro so get whatever suites you. 40psi gauge seems a little high to me for fuel pressure on our trucks. You'd only be using maybe half that gauge at any one time and would make getting a more accurate reading from it difficult. I'd recommend a 30psi gauge.

Definitely would advise against a lock up switch on a stock trans.

Man, you move quick Mike!!

Yea selling things on FB is kinda sketch. Too many kids get on there and get in over their heads I think.

Nice! Movings always a fun time *insert sarcasm* but it always ends eventually! haha Looking forward to your experience with those injectors, I plan on getting some in the near future as well.

As long as the gauge can reach just up out the hood in front of the windshield you're good. Although I have the gauge from Vulcan that Mike linked, you only need the gauge to reach up from under the hood in front of the windshield so you can see it when driving.

Output shafts are just a lot harder to break period. You either need to be throwin a lot of power or doing things that'll obviously cause extra abuse ie; burnouts, boosted launched, sled pulling or any other tom foolery. Keep in mind that Cumminsdog was like the guy who CF admins seemed to hate because he contradicted everything that the general population of CF thought. What made things even worse for him, was that he was generally right and rarely if ever in the wrong, but I think the admin over there didn't like that. I think the main reason he got banned was because of his support of DOR and him trying to help people out who were having hard times dealing with them. Either way, he definitely didn't have a problem telling it like it was, regardless of who disliked it on the admin panel lol.

I asked the same question when I had Jon build my trans. Basically anything over 550ish is recommended to have a billet output. Output shafts are stronger then input shafts just by their size, they're a lot shorter and pretty fat. If you never ever plan on going into the big horsepower range then yea maybe it wasn't neccesarry, but one things for sure, you shouldn't worry about it breaking! My guess is @jlbayes was barely making 300hp because he didn't have his pump tuned like he wanted and was running some crap injectors at the time, but you can't turn down an opportunity to do a 10 minute burnout to show some duracrap what's up! I kid I kid!! Hahah

That's a quick splitter for sure. Makes the old hydraulic ones I'm used too look like they're standing still haha

I mean if it's in high idle then it's doing its job of warming up the truck faster. Just weird it's dropping from 400-100 degrees. I'd be leaning more towards the egt probe or sensor being the problem here.

One of those days where you're your own worst enemy! I know them all too well! On the bright side you got some nice lookin wheels out of the deal. I tried putting together the over the engine breather like Mikes but got my angles wrong when putting everything back together with glue and didn't bother again. Just running my extended flexible pvc straight down.

What concerns me is if they did install something other then a stock converter with a stock valve body. Typically you want to upgrade both of those at the same time so they can support each other. One without the other could cause problems, I'm just not sure if that could cause the problems you're having.

Hmm, you have a build sheet or anything that labels exactly what was done to your trans? Might help us make more sense of what's going on based on exactly what you have. I don't think you'd see anything in the pan if the converter was bad just because it's sealed for the most part, but I guess crazier things have happened.