notlimah

Cool, that's a nice area. I'm a bit north of you but nice to see more guys on here in the general area. Also, glad you got your issue fixed! Sometimes it's the smallest things that are easiest to overlook.

Out of curiosity, what part of the country are you looking? The last truck you listed sounds like it'd go for like 10k more in my area then yours haha!

Are you moving to Seattle? Hows the mpg's cruising around at 60mph and 2400rpm??

If your valve body is stock and you have any sort of aftermarket TC that could be your problem right there. Aftermarket TC's need the additional line pressure from a properly tuned valve body.

Well this is pretty awesome! Nicely done!!

I think I agree with ya on the injectors. I have no reason to suspect it's due to a cracked head gasket, piston or block, but my injectors have to be tired, which in turn means the washers are too. Valve lash is something I always want to verify but haven't been able to justify going through that without just doing injectors as well. New injectors are in the ear future that's for sure.

From what I've seen, I think you need at minimum a stock stall and ideally slightly above stock stall.

I wouldn't be surprised if its my injectors. Currently stock with close to 180k. Any reason compression would be low? Just to clarify, the truck starts fine. It just smokes like a train when it's colder, not plugged in and grids aren't working.

I have a 15 blade torque converter from Goerend and they consider it slightly lower then stock, I wanna say they even mention 2-400rpm lower.

I know that's what the book calls for but I think each truck is different too. Mine clearly does not like it when it's been sitting overnight in 40* weather, and gets fired up without grids. Never smokes any other time and it's only during the colder weather. Also doesn't do it as bad when the grids were working so definitely leaning towards that being the issue. Thanks for the advice, I'll look it over to see if I can find anything that stands out but it was pretty charred up all the way around. The one wire was fairly loose, but again, hard to tell if that was because of the thing burnin up or not. Either way, I'm going to use lock washers to hopefully prevent anything from coming loose and like @CTcummins24V said, probably look at going with OEM this time around to see if I have better luck.

Well one things for sure, my truck DOES NOT like chilly morning starts with no grids!! As far as starting she's fine, a slight hiccup, probably from getting nothing but cold air into a cold block, but boy does she smoke lol. I think I'll have to plug her in just to keep her happy, and my road smoke free hahaha.

I really don't know. Other then standing there starring at it while it happened I'm not sure how to tell. The nut and wire were loose when I finally found it, but I imagine that's partially due to all the missing plastic.

I think anything over 2in and you run the risk of it having nose high all the time. IMO 2in is leveled. I should've mentioned that even though my measurements say the nose is lower, you can't tell looking at it. heres some pics of mine for reference with 2in level and nothing else.

Yea that's sounds about right. Your still stock aren't you? From what ive noticed on my truck when it's parked in my driveway slightly up hill from fender to top of the wheel the front is maybe an inch lower, but looking at it it seems dead even. Sometimes at the right angle it'll look like it has a rake but other times (read majority) it's perfectly even. I thinknwith long beds this is exaggerated even more so good for thought.

Yea, I think so lol Not sure if it was a loose connection or what but I'll be ordering a new one. Sad part is this was replaced less then a year ago so unless it was really a loss connection (aka my fault) kinda sucks but I'll talk to Genos and see what they can work with me on. Theres no fuses I need to check right? Needless to say, check your connections often or use lock washers lol

Ok belay my last on this one. I was wrong. The TC WILL LOCK even without throttle input. I tried it out and it does work, it just takes a bit longner then it does when on the gas. Confirmed it while coasting down hill, then again with it in drive, which in turn stalled the truck. ? It DID NOT work in park. So this does still make me this hydraulic issue or TC is toast. Sorry for any confusion. ?

Exactly why it made me a little wary of 'half billet' when I read that.

I'm not entirely sure if that .5in difference would matter, but I have no personal experience with it and my guess would be that no it will not. Again, I think you mentioned this before, if you tow, a 2.5in level is going to make the truck sag big time, even when empty it'll more then likely look like it has a nose high rake so just be aware of that.

Electrical doesn't make sense either. Has to be a fluid/line pressure issue, or the TC itself is done. For example, when driving down the road coasting, I can hit my lockup switch and nothing with happen. Once I get back on the gas with the switch still being held, nothing will happen. It's not until I'm on the gas AND THEN hit the switch that it'll lock and stay locked until I let go of the switch. That's the reason why you can have a lockup switch and accidently hit it when at a light and not on the gas and it won't stall the truck. Has to happen in a certain order, so I'd personally say that the electrical checks out. I don't know if TC can become fused together or stators fail or something causing it to be locked constantly but sorta sounds what you have going on. What brand torque converter was used in the rebuild? You just couldn't resist hunh?! lolol! While I agree with what you're saying, have you ever heard of a 'half billet' TC?!?!

From what I understand, 33's will fit on 17's or smaller with no lift up front. I had a 2in level with 35's and they fit and would only rub the outside of the tire on the plastic wheel well cover at full lock. I have "33's" (285's) now and plan on going down to a 1in level up front so I'll find out if my understanding is correct or not. I don't think control arms are necessary for a 2in level or smaller, unless you were going bigger then 315/75/16, but it would be doing it the right way.

I personally feel you roll the dice in a sense when getting a converter rebuilt by anyone other then the like of Goerend, DPC, Cascade etc... and most of those companies will only rebuild their own units. Although i don't know all the details of your converter, when I see half billet, I immediately start thinking a shop is blowing smoke up your a** and it's a quick way for them to make some extra money and do little to no work. I hope that's not the case and just my opinion.

Stall is just reffering to when the torque converter will start working its magic. Stock stall is an aftermarket TC with a stall identical to stock (obviously) which is around 22-2400rpms (generally speaking and you'll hear different people say different rpms). So from there you can see where slightly lower, ultra low, higher then stock play in. You pair these TC stalls with setup, more specifically your turbo(s). Big single or the right compounds, probably looking at above stock/high stall. Smaller-ish single and you can get away with slightly lower to stock stall. The main goal is to let the TC spin freely enough to get your turbo to spoil prior to it engaging. Hope that helps.

Looks good! Let us know how those tires pan out. So far I'm pretty happy with my Coopers, and hard to beat a 60k tread warranty.

I'd say if you have any plans on towing regularly then those 18-20 wheels on 35's are going to make thing horrendous when towing. If you don't tow and you just want the look, then you can get away with it IMO. But if your towing then yes, the things you mentioned are kinda neccesary to maintain a good towing platform while still having everything the way you want. For example, I went from 315's on 16's down to 285's on 17's and it made a huge difference.

Not to mention with a wheel tire combo like that it'll tow like poo