notlimah

What's the exact hardware needed to plum your boost gauge in where you did?

So not sure exactly what's going on right now, but I don't think it's a bad thing. I filled up my last tank and up until yesterday I thought my fuel gauge was stuck! It FINALLY dropped off the full peg and is starting to get under the first tic mark. I'm currently sitting at over 100 miles on my trip counter. The only thing that's changed from this fill up from previous is I set the smarty to fuel mode. Does it really cause this big of a jump in MPGs?

I'll be honest, I didn't see anything wrong in that video. Pretty sure mine idles at the 850 mark in PARK and 800 in DRIVE. Ideally you want between 800-850 but it looks like your at 900 with one drop into the 850 range. I don't see anything wrong here though.

Ahh ok, that makes more sense. Still doesn't seem like it'd even be necessary though. Did you try it?

Does anyone ever go in the chatroom on here?! I'm in! Where you guys at?!

Yea adding diesel or WD to the mating surface seems unnecessary but I'm sure he wouldn't of mentioned it if it didn't work. The swivel nut is what I was pointing out to you in an earlier part of this thread as being bad on mine. Like was mentioned before though, it's hard to locate the actual leak on these fitting for multiple reasons.

I can't speak for the Autometer gauges but with my ISSPRO gauges I just have the positive wired in series down one side and ground wired the same on the other post and I ran the ground wire into a screw in the kick panel somewhere. Works fine on both trucks, never had any issues.

Lubricate what threads and with what?

Yea that doesn't sound right. Has this been verified over different sections of road? I tend to forget most of my diagnosis happens on the way to work, on the same stretch of road so things like this I have to go for a drive somewhere else to see if the problem really exists or it just happens to be the way my truck drives that piece of road. It still seems like somethings funky with yours though. Mine has a small window, maybe 1-3mph, where the trans doesn't like it and cant decide what gear, it basically ends up being a quick shift to 4th then back to 3rd where it'll stay until I speed up or go down a hill. Trans are hard to diagnose though, that's for sure, that's what makes having Dynamic around so awesome!

This thread expresses all my wants and fears of getting into the world of +500hp land. So I'll continue to live vicariously through you Tyler!

Ahhh ok! Thanks for saving me the time of looking up a non existent post! Haha

If your not making fuel and have good fuel pressure I'd leave those lines alone. Get the injectors tested and if they come back good then you can diagnose the VP further.

I've never heard of anyone swapping a 3rd gen rear axle in. I'll have to look more into that.

Alright so I have some updates followed by a couple new questions and concerns. Firstly I added the rear storage bin that I took out of my other truck! I forgot how nice it was to have the extra room under there! I got my tool box sold so next it'll be bed liner so cover up the scratchs and surface rust, after rust seal of course. I have a be a couple new things that have recently developed. First one being my fuel gauge seems to be stuck on full. I'm at just shy of 100 miles on this tank and it hasn't budged. I did put the smarty on mpg mode but I doubt it's help me that much. It's worked since I reinstalled my module so I know it works but it started acting up after I topped off the tank, followed by 2stroke, so I'm wondering if I wondered if I over filled it a bit and got the float stuck. I got under and beat on the tank a bit but I'm not sure how low on fuel I am so it could be causing it to stay stuck because it didn't work. Any other things to look for? Secondly, just tonight while I was crawling around underneath the truck beating the tank I noticed what looked like water at first coming from a front frame piece. Popped the hood and I had dried specks of coolant. My overfill bottle was REALLY full, well above the full marker, and my radiator cap had come loose. I drained the overfill bottle down to a normal level and obviously tightend back the cap. Was this just caused by the over filled bottle? Or could it be my cap going bad? I haven't had overheating issues and the whole radiator was replaced not long ago. Running the pink coolant currently. Sorry for the lengthy post!!

Ahh ok, so basically just find a whole 80 for sale, driveshaft and all and your good to go!

That to me would be categorized as towing heavy. I definitely wasn't trying to imply that a stock outfitted truck doesn't have the capability to cause damage in this regard. All I was trying to get at was if @leathermaneod wants to hold off on this fix he probably would be safe in doing so if he avoided things like you mentioned Mike. It's not like he doesn't have a gauge at all, it'll just be reading slightly lower. Honestly his numbers while driving are really similar to what mine are so it seems like it's fairly close except at idle. I just drilled the full size bit. I took my time and would drill in a little then clean up the hole, then drill again until I was through. I wanted to use the full size just to avoid having smaller shavings. I did however have to use a slight bigger drill bit because when trying to tap the hole it was requiring way to much effort. I'd have to double check the drill bit sizes I used though. Honestly I don't think there's any wrong way to do this, just take your time and make sure you get all the shavings out.

So it putting an 80 in not a straight swap?

I'm on stock injectors still. Correct me if I'm wrong but unless you were flogging around constantly up steep grades or towing heavy, wouldn't it be pretty hard to cause damage? We're all smart enough around here to know that if you do certain things it's going to have repercussions. I'm not saying your wrong for wanting to move it, just wondering if it's really worth the hassle if you don't tow heavy or don't drive like a jackass all the time ya know?! Obviusly you should do what you thinks best for your truck though! Heres what I used for mine, Geno's instructions. What you're looking for is on page 2.

I honestly don't think your numbers are that far off. Your only really off in the high idle department but that's understandable given your probe location and how 3cyl high idle works. I see 350-450 for high idle, obviously without exhaust brake. Your driving numbers match mine pretty close as well but you have 5 speed so I'd imagine keeping your numbers lower is easier then in my auto. If it were me I'd just leave it and plan on replacing it whenever I added a 3 piece manifold. I'd be too worried about the plug coming loose or having shavings go flying into my turbo.

Oh ok, if there's that big a gap and it's basically not picking a free to stay in then that's not right. Mine window for shifts is smaller but it doesn't flip flop between gears.

Yup, as far as I know.

Duuuude they're so comfy! My wife hates that I wear them so I make a point to wear them even more!

Well why don't you post your numbers so that way someone with similar mods can tell you their numbers and then you have your difference! I think Haha

Could most definitely be your line to your FO gauge. I just fixed my same issue by swapping the entire gauge. Granted my gauge wasn't functioning properly so that's why I even thought it was a possibility. Did is you ever talk to Eric @Vulcan about a shop?

That's not a bad idea there Mike! I typically would get everything hooked up and throw it in the center console or just lay it on the ground so I can have it plugged in. I still need to get with you on how to set my gauges up like yours to show HP, fuel and set the highs and lows with greened areas and what not.