01cummins4ever

talk about parking under a sprinkler, We use one of these where I work to wash under semi trucks, its like a sprinkler on steroids. just hook it up to a pressure washer. It will probably even knock off some of that loose rust

Its the four legged traffic around here that worries me.

I did my heater core and evaporator last year, and like everyone said expect a broken dash, Mine has had a cover since new and that was the first time i pulled the cover off in about 12 or 13 years, and I was shocked ! after I was all done I just put the dash cover back on and forget about it for now and I see you have an automatic trans. when you drop your steering column, don't do what I did and forget to disconnect the shift indicator cable. I no longer have a shift indicator

I think mine is around 250#, I put it on myself but a floor jack was a necessity!! I think it took longer to get my stock bumper off than it took to mount the new one.

I think about 1/1/2 should be about right to get it back to level, I googled part #52113988AA and got a Mopar dealer from Illinois called liberty auto, they had the coils listed at 120.00 but that's probably each, I don't know but Ill call them tomorrow. It looks like about 200 -250 is the going price for them upgraded coils. I ya I think I will go with the snowplow coils and see where it gets me, if need I can add spacers later but hope not

Ha! That works too. I always thought these trucks need more weight in the back

I have been looking for a good bumper for a while and ran across this one the other day on C/L in grand junction, and practically stole it for 750.00. Its brand new never been mounted. its got a winch mount so ill be adding more weight in the near future. as you can see in the pic truck is sagging about an inch or two, so to level it back up would a leveling kit be a wise option or should I just buy oem replacement springs. These ones have about 280k on then so I'm sure they are getting a little week. Ive heard to stay away from those poly spacers but don't know, I've never dealt with the issue

wow a 1999 with only 112000, and a 5 speed, that's got to be worth something right their. if its a clean truck i've seen them bring in over 10,000 grand, A clean 2nd. gen is getting hard to come by.

I used lukes links on all my tie rod ends and was able to keep the original track bar. That was the most economical way to tighten up the front end. I ve put about 70,000 mi. since and just keep em greased and their still tight. but that being said I did have a problem with the link on the track bar rubbing on the differential cover on tight turns and bounsing since they are kind of bulky, with a little bit of grinding on the link I was able to fix that. Now that I added a 250 LB. bumper and adding a winch, the problem is coming back, I may be looking to upgrade the springs or a leveling kit.

I agree wind chill has just as much effect as ambient temp, I can even feel it in my bones too

yep, that might be the deal killer for me, It is a good looking bumper though

Do those come with the grill guard or is that extra? I looked at the web site and it sounded like about $ 600 for just the bumper, and if you want the grill protection its quite a bit extra. Im looking at beefing up mine and looking at the full protection.

When my original VP went out I took it to dealer and they installed the in tank pump, along with a new VP. It only lasted through the summer and was doing the same thing, started fine when cold but after it warmed up if I shut it off some times it would crank for 10 seconds or more before it fired up. I ended up just taking it as a loss and redone the whole system with the draw straw and AD frame mount along with another VP, and of course a fuel pressure gauge along with an idiot light. If I had to do it over I think there is better options out their than the draw straw, because my truck will drop fuel pressure considerably with less than 1/4 tank of fuel. Ideally you should have about 18 psi. at idle and no less than 12 under heavy load.

I did one on a Force 50 a few weeks ago. Get you a seal kit from ebay or something, and all you should have to do is pull lower unit like you do to change impeller. Their is a shaft seal under the water pump and a o ring and another seal in the bearing case if I remember correctly. No special tools. Hopefuly your bearing retainer is not seized, or you might have to get creative and use heat and a puller. Also make sure you get the small washers that go in the fill and vent plug. other than that, fairly easy job

great advice, I never thought of that...it will clean it up...

Mine is a short box and it was a tight fit, I had to cut the brackets down the pump came with, because of my frame cross member. But as for your original question, If I had to do it again I would go with a different set up just because of the fits it gave me when it was new, and I do carry a spare just for that reason,

still going to solder and heat shrink, just going different style of clamp . just thought it might give me some options if adding accessories in the future, and my cables and clamps went south a long time ago, I'm just getting around to it, just want to do it right so I don't have to do it again.

I installed frame mount raptor 100 back in 2012, I chose it because I didn't need the 150 because my engine basically stock, and life time warranty, I still use the stock fuel filter, and run the 1/2 big line on both sides of pump.. With that said, the pump locked up on me twice when I first got it within the first 2000 miles. both times I puled the gear rotors out and cleaned them. and good to go. So far I have put about 60,000 miles and no issues yet.

the only reason I was thinking of going with the military style clamps is because they seem more serviceable. rather than if you solder the cable end into the clamp it a done deal, I don't know if you get a second chance on redoing if needed.(don't know never tried it) it may last or may not. depending on the solder job.

cool, so solder over crimping, I can handle that. I didn't know fastenal sold that stuff, They have a store in a town about 50 miles from me, I will have to give them a call and see if they got what I need. other than that I got a carquest and napa close by.

I think I cleaned my cables for the last time, Its time to replace them all. So ive been looking into a set from custom cables, but for 300 bucks I think I could build my own for about 1/2 the cost. I was thinking about going with 2/0 size for both sides and using a good quality military style clamps, As far as the cable I don't know if I should spend the extra money and use marine grade cable or if welding cable/ automotive cable in the same size would be just as good. And is crimping the best way to fasten all this together rather than soldier,

I coulld not agree more on learning to do things yourself ( even if you have to invest in a few tools or borrow them) using the power of the internet and great forums like this we do it yourselfers can accomplish just about anything. When my IP went out years ago, I think it was around 2007 0r 2008, I was affraid to tackle it and had the local dealership do it, well that cost me about 3500 bucks including a crappy in tank fuel pump they thought they had to install.( because I did not know any better) That whole set up lasted less than a year and burned up another pump. After that I started to do research and use the internet and purchased another IP and redone the whole fuel system for around 1800 bucks and its still going strong

You can always find excuses to run errands before and after work, especially with a new house and baby on the way.

Run engine, jack front wheels off ground, disconnect return line from hydro boost and add a hose on hydro boost to catch fluid in a container, work wheel completely back and forth. The only reason I pulled it off the hydro boost is because the return lines on the ps pump don't like to come off without cutting them. Its the same line your just catching it before it goes back into the ps pump. I didn't pump the brakes but I'm sure that would speed up the process. accelerating engine and turning wheel will help the fluid circulate faster