Rogan

I know 'barking' is a common issue with a gas-powered turbo vehicle, as they require a throttle plate (butterfly).On those, the barking occurs when you're making a lot of boost, then let off the throttle suddenly, thus slamming the 'door' closed. since the turbo is still spinning at supersonic speed, that remaining boost pressure is still present, but has nowhere to go. so, it back-feeds pressure to the turbo, and applies an "air-brake" load on the compressor wheel. This can, and has caused fins to break, as well as twisting turbine shafts in half. A bypass valve, or blow-off valve cures this, provided it is large enough to accommodate the boost levels and volumes of air.I didn't know the diesels could effectively get this, as well, provided there is no throttle plate nor a BPV/BOV.

a 1500 2wd has a 36mm nut.I keep reading (almost everywhere) that it's 1-11/16", which is 42.817.462 (11/16") + 25.4 (1") = 42.862, or 43mm

I can and have done a lot of automotive ac work on my own junk in the past. With the compressor cycling, that's at least a good sign, and says that the most expensive component is functional. The transmission's initial hesitation is my greatest concern. Since I posted this, I've communicated with the current owner, and he stated it's an HTS Ultimate.. ULTIMATE DUTY VALVE BODY, RED CLUTCHES, REGULAR STEELS, RED SOLID BANDS, H/D BAND STRUT, 4.2 LEVER, FRONT SERVO UPGRADE, ACCUMULATOR PACKAGE, STEEL REAR PLANETARY Suncoast triple Disc Converter Suncoast VB

Back story:I'm looking at this 97 3500 4x4. It's got a few issues I'm concerned about; a couple being drivetrain-related.The truck was apparently originally a 5 speed truck, and somewhere down the line, was converted to auto. when the current owner got the truck, the trans went out shortly after that. He had it rebuilt with:(parts I know)Suncoast 3-disc TCperformance VBperformance front pumpnew servosnew TV cable(parts I don't know about)"red" clutchesSolid kevlar bandsSaid he's got like $3k in the trans rebuild, and another $1k is having the place in Wesminster, MD do some rewiring, connect vacuum lines, etc., that the owner before-hand did not do properly. The issue I have concern with is that when it's first started, and placed into gear, it takes about 10 sec or so to fully engage into gear. From that point on, it's fine. It shifts solid, feels good. I'm just concerned with this initial 'delay'. Another note to add is that the "computer" had to be re-pinned or something, for the trans to work properly. I dunno..Secondly, is the tach gauge. It works when it wants to. no other lights come on when it decides to stop working, which is most of the time. when you start it, it'll hop up and work.. after about 5 seconds, it's done and lays down.. :think:AC: The compressor cycles on/off about every 10-12 sec.. but doesn't blow cold air.Guidance? Thanks.

he texted me last night, as he's fixed the vent issue; it was a vacuum leak. He's working on the AC deal now.

I had a 45mi highway roadtrip yesterday. I really tried to feather the throttle, and got behind a couple tractor-trailers, stayed around 65-68mph (70mph speed limit) and still bested a 15.8mpg average, with some instant high marks of 19-21 (numbers per scan gauge 2)

Diodes allow voltage to flow only in one direction only. This keeps voltages from "back-feeding" through and sending power to something that you don't want to receive power. 40A relay is just what the relay is capable of handling. so if you push 20A or 30A through a 40A relay, it will not heat up. as for fuse-size, that will basically depend on wire-gauge and end-device capabilities. But wire-gauge ampacity is where you need to look, first.. Roughly, if you're running a 30A device, you'll need a 25-30A fuse, and minimum of 12g stranded copper. I used to have the ampacity chart memorized (old job relied on it), but I've not used it in years..

Not done yet. I'll meet him tonight and check it out. Trading my 01. If it falls through, I'm also looking at a 96 xclb dually for sale. From the Galaxy S3 - - - Updated - - - so it didn't go through. truck had some issues that I don't have the time/money to deal with.. rust in both rockers, rust in the Western Hauler bed (no rust in the doors though.. weird) defrost vent only ac no worky tach no worky takes 20-30 sec. after startup for trans to fully operate. fine after that. was originally a 5spd, now is an automatic. jakey hole patch job where the shifter used to be. So, ive got someone supposedly coming to look/buy my truck tomorrow. I've got my eye on two other extended cab dually trucks, if mine sells. I'll keep you all posted.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4273&d=1342194785

Jason, Can you post a pic of this pump? Thanks.

Possibly getting rid of my '01 today, and picking up a '97 Dually club cab.135k mi, built auto, 4x4, Western Hauler bed, etc. We'll see how it goes.

Welcome to the forum, Andrew.I am deaf in one ear. This happened last year, in the span of about 4-5 hrs. I went from perfect hearing in both ears, to ringing in my left ear, to deaf, all in one evening.Dr. says no explanation for it.So going 44yrs of hearing, to basically instant hearing loss in one ear has had a huge learning curve for me.I'm glad to see that you do not let your lack of hearing interfere with what you want to do. So many people will let something like that get in the way.

compression/leakdown test?

is the map sensor dead?

I "drive" for fuel economy, as well. ...I just ain't gettin' so good economy, riding in the low-teens..

Mine just arrived from Wheeling Truck Center..[ATTACH]4265[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4266[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4267[/ATTACH]From the Galaxy S3

wow.. Rotella T @ TSC is like $60/5gal.

idaho,did you ever get mobile again? Just curious.

not really.. I'm going to try and recalculate it again and see what it says then. I still keep hand-calculations in Fuelly.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4262&d=1342206364

^^ adjust the latching pin up some..

I run the 235/85-16s (stock sticker says 245/75-16. I run 60# in front, 80# in rear, and it rides like a buck-board wagon. But, they wear well, and support the tow weight. I air down the rear in winter, and up in front (snow plow). I've got these on it..

Hey, dobie.. If you have access to Royal Purple (what I run), here's info from their TS guys..

I had one in my '96 and liked it. It's a little tight if you have a manual trans (I've hit my finger between the shifter and cup holder once) but still worthwhile, IMO.

So, old thread, but still on topic: I decided (for S&Gs) to place my truck FS or Trade on craigslist last night. Sell for 10,5k$ or trade for EC or QC dually, 12v or 24v. manual or built auto. blah blah.. So, within 12 hrs, I had like seven different emails. most were 12v dually 4x4s. here's one of them.. a 97 with 134k, built auto, billet triple disc TC, tow VB, etc.. The bed doesn't move me, but whatever..