Rogan

Don't hold your breath on the 20+mpg.. If you do get 20, consider yourself the chosen one.I've owned 5 Cherokees ('89 LTD, '93 Sport, 2-'96 Up-Countrys, '98 LTD). The 93 was the rare 5 speed. I never did see 20mpg in any of them. the '98 had a best of ~18.5mpg (20 once on the highway.) The '96s and the 93 were usually around 16-17mpg.The 4.0L is not known for "economy".. Especially the H.O. models.Things to expect/look out for are leaky seals in the 231 tcase; usually the output seals. The steering is typical Dodge truck style, only worse: it's bolted to a unibody.Head gasketsburnt valves #5 or #3

280... as in seconds? I'm assuming you're referring to a turbo timer on the cooldown. If you are, then there's no need at all to even use it, unless you're running the skunk-pee out of the truck, high boost, for the entire trip, then whipping into the work parking lot.. The ONLY time I use the cooldown timer, is if on a roadtrip, highway speeds, for extended time, then take an exit and immediately pull into a store/fuel stop/etc.. I'll let it idle for a minute or so, then. Otherwise, it's a pointless habit, especially for a 12minute trip.

My bad. I even read that.. Just failed to retain it, I suppose..

IIRC, the CTD alternator is of the 140A flavor. I'd be highly surprised if the gasser has the same.Beings it's a '94, I doubt it's a V10. The tcase (if it's a 231 or 241 will bring some pocket money.

Interesting info, Mike. Thanks for sharing.

Nice!! Projecto-mobile

I'd SOOOO drive that as a DD...

definitely keep us posted

ahh, makes sense. It's been spinning them lately, due to all the rain.. and my foot...

it's a fairly simple process, usually.. Haven't done them on a Ram, but have on a Saab. At least that car was straight-forward. Difference of yours being the truck-side wiring for the heated seating..

p1693, p0500 SPEED SENSORSpeedo works fine.. No idea WTF I'm getting these for..

"wanting", and "affording" a long bedder are two very far apart things right now

mate up? sure..although the 03 is most likely fully electronic controlled..

Thanks.Yeah, I'm mostly concerned with the turning radius and clearances with a gooseneck and shortbed setup.

Jonathan, How's the QCSB pull a gooseneck? Any issues? I know you have the doved trailer tongue, so that helps, but have you pulled a square-nosed gooseneck yet? Clearance issues with the cab?Thanks!

.htaccess file in the folder, port forward (to say, 8080), as most internet providers don't allow port80 (http port) traffic, due to bandwidth usage.Set the DNS account up in your router, and call it done.Free DNS servers are available. (like Freedns.com, dyndns.com, etc..

Mine are the steel variety, and I just reused the OE rubber isolators.

Ever get this figured out?

That's what SHE said. per Tapatalk on my EVO

what tires, marble? 3" leveling kit??Or did I miss something, here?

I have a leveling kit on my 2000. It's a tad nose-high when I tow my 9000lb tag trailer, but a little better than without, when I'm carrying the snow plow.

Nice! I know what you mean about $10 vs $60. Can't blame you there ;)

had this on my '96. http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-3851-bd-pushpull-exhaust-brake-switch-kit-for-manual-transmissions-with-58-lever-1300210.aspx

Ithink a lot of it, as well, is that those that owned a 12V first, before a 24V ownership, tends to want what they had.I'm in that category, as well. I'm dying to p-pump my 24v.Even from a mild performance increase standpoint, I made over 400HP on my p-pump truck for under $400. Do THAT with a VP truck :)But, in saying that, I'm also starting to wean off of the conversion I desperately wanted so badly..Curse you, Mike...