dripley

Thanks for sharing that one on the synchromesh. I usually pay $8+ for a quart for it. Just got 14 more for the shelf.

I have had mine both ways and did not notice any difference.

I got mine from Vulcan with the same tapped 90 as in the above picture. As I remember it was an option. It still flows more fuel than the banjo bolt.

Had to lay something on it to hold it there. Just kept sliding off the hood.

Almost sounds illegal.

These are not that big but the horns come off. Its not one casting.

Scott, the man installing my gas line, gave me this today. Came off a 40 model Plymouth. Old model Rams head. Darn thing even fits on the hood.

They're sealing washers. DAP or Vulcan has them. $9.38 will buy alot more than one. IIRC they are the same as the ones on the OE connection to the VP..

I dont have any with the 2010+ pumps. I do know if I have a lift pump failure, I do t want it to happen in the fuel tank. If my AD fails it is readily replaceabe without removing the tank. A very quick repair on the frame rail.

Mine has not leaked since I installed 8 or 9 years ago. I would have tomgo back and look because I don't remember any sealing washers on mine. But 8 years ago I dont remeber much of.

Ball joints still give me headaches. My Moog are still holding for now after 240k. If I replace them again it should be the last time.

X'3 Snugged mine up and got running and snugged them a little tighter if they leaked.

I experienced a few times back 6 or 7 years ago on an old set of tires and a worn track bar. New tires stopped it and have not experienced since. I do remember the first time it did it, I was about to jump out the window. It shook so hard it cleaned out my door pockets. Quite the experience. The smart ones know which side of town to stay on.

Nice pallet, buid it yourself or is that a @JAG1 original?

Supposed to hit 97 out this way today with no rain in site for a while. We are quite dusty.

It is just loosing prime in the fuel system. Air is getting in some where and causing the hard start. Try parking nose down one night and see if it cures it. That gets the fuel tank above the air leak.

No need to replace the lines. There are two sealing washer on the back of the head that might need replacing. The bolt might be tight bur the washers get hard with time and loose their sealing ability. The tee down stream of the head joins with the return from the VP. The lines dont go bad but the orings in the tee do. I still have all my OEreturn lines but have had to replace the washers and o rings. 481k on the return lines.

Try the 5600, it's even worse due to the limited run on Dodge only installs.

Or when every one thinks I am capable of getting 10 weeks of work done in 5. Been alot of that going on in my world lately.

If you go to the articles section under 24v 2nd gen the obd II error codes are listed there. Sorry I cant link them. The 163 is not listed but I believe that would 1693 you saw. That is telling there are other codes in the other computer. The 380 and 382 are for the grid heaters. Sounds like the PO might have disconnected them at the solenoids on the drive inner fender well. That will set the codes. The 237 is a low volt code on the MAP sensor. That could be the sensor or wiring for the sensors. This can cause some some weak power if it is failing. All the diagnostics are in the error code section. If you have a hot rod VP and a comp operatiing off of the stock fuel system and near stock lift pump, the FASS needs to go in first and then see how it runs. You are probably suffering from some fuel starvation. Get a fuel pressure gauge also. Try keep the pressure set where it will stay 14 psi and above at all times. Your VP will love you for it. Some 2 stroke oil in the fuel will help also. About 1oz per gallon. Your truck should not have a crank sensor, just a cam sensor behind the VP. Probably not an issue. You would be having some drivability issues if it was failing.

I myself was being very facetious about the cheap to work on part. A good rebuild is $3k + as long as all hard parts are good.

I guess I know why I have not seen that part before. None on mlne.

guess I have not been in far enough to see them before.

Just get a 5600 and stick it in there. American made and cheap to work on, if your name is Rockefeller. I got a spare you can have built.

did it come out of your truck or a lawn mower? Cant say I have seen one of those in my truck.