dripley

OBD II is fine for checking. You dont have to have smarty for that purpose. Did you install the airtex and know how it is wired? I would check the FP sooner rather than later that could a large part of your problem. Then again maybe not, you wont know until you check. If it is shot you are just shortening the life of that high dollar VP. I have one myself. ACS does seem to have a decent rep on ECM's.

Bare with me, no ill intent meant. Did check with a scanner? At key on you should get just a a second or so of lift pump run. If you bump the starter, no engine start, it should run for 20seconds or so. Where did the rebuilt ECM come from and how long has it been on the truck? What kind of fuel pressure are seeing with gauge you have? Airtex is not one of better pumps. Micheal is bringing me water like or not. Working just west of Columbia SC and it is headed right at us. I should add that the lift pump running as I stated above will only be that way if it is if it is connected thru the ECM. If it is just wired to keyed hot it will run all the time the key is. Not a good thing if you have wreck. The pump will just keep running till you turn it off. The ECM will do that automatically if it is in control.

That makes 3. We might have found another difference in the updated gear case cover.

Any trouble codes?

I would advise against the switch. I you end up in wreck the pump will keep running and pumping fuel until you cut it off. If you are incapaciated you wont be able to. And if you are on fire with a ruptured fuel line the end results could quite bad. The ECM takes care of that for you. You can pull the power from a battery or the alternator for that matter. But let the ECM control it. I dont believe the fass is causing your issue. Though it is possible if something is wrong with the pump. I also dont believe the fass would cause that joint to over heat unless you were able to connect the pump to that joint connector.

Your the second member that had this issue. But I dont remember who or what year truck.

My 02 has a sticker in the glove box that lists what rear end and gear ratio mine has. Maybe it is there, late models anyway.

Yeah, but he lost 14 laps and it took me 2 days to change out 4 and put it back together, thats like 17 races I think.

He would be correct. A little wind does wonders. Thought that was what the pic was about, how little you get to move it. With 454k on mine there are no cob webs on the exterior.

I guess this means you have not been to the salt flats lately?

I remember seeing and reading the TSB. What I remember is the switch activates around 6 psi of oil pressure and then the ecm takes over with ECT and RPM to register a set pressure. That is as long as IIRC.

I feel I have paid a high for the screamin beaver and wood joke. But I love every minute of it.

Thats the one. Maybe that socket is the one that fits. Yep. Just pull it out and detach the wires. I red where some folks had used snap ring pliers with 90* jaws to do it. But the only thing I was successful at was destroying the socket. I like that. Which slot does the cigarette fit into?

If you can see the 2 square holes in my cigarette lighter socket, they get engaged with 2 plastic tabs in side the plastic ring. They pop into the holes when you insert the socket. I liked to never got mine until I found a lighter for a GM that came with a removal tool. It is a tee shaped flat piece of stamped steel. You put in on angle, engage one tab, rotate over to emgage other tab then pull the tool and socket out together. Dont have the tool with me. I could not get mine out until I had that tool. The only reason mine is not pushed in is it is the GM one and is bit to big. I cant remember which one I bought however. The power outlet has the tabs also.

I have kept my eye open for some new old stock for some ball joints. No luck so far. But the Moog ones I put in near 200k ago are still working fine. A little up and down movement but thats it. About the same as they were a couple years ago. I did find some new old ujoints from 2003 for the drive shaft. All sealed Spicer. So if they are as good as the oe ones I will never change them again. I like sealed joints. Maybe Jimmy Johnson can tells what brand he uses. He broke one before they dropped the green flag in yesterdays race. Might of had a 100 miles on it.

My injection lines have lost a lot of the goldish color coating that was on them when new. I had to replace injector line #5 back when the end blew off of it. The new one fro. Cummins did not have that coating on it. Appears just to be the bare metal. @James merritt happy you found the parts and yes do them all. If one is leaking the others are not far behind. Did you get some sealing washers? A few spares are good to have on hand. They should fit the VP banjo too.

An anti gravity suit might work. Maybe they got one.

Yep, did it when I did the return tee. Pretty much all by feel and laying on the engine. I hope the never leak again but they might be already. Get a hard start myself every so often.

That is a very good view. Sure would be nice if you get to it as easy as you can see it.

The fuel pressure from the VP is not what you would monitor. You need a sender on the fuel line from the lift pump after you last filter. As far as what the edge is seeing, I have no idea if you have no sender for it.

Out of its big chicken mouth, you big dummy.

Are you using a scanner to check the codes? Do you know what your fuel pressure is, both idle and wot?

Sorry to hear about the beer.

I need to add some thing to what I told about removing the filter canister. My fuel system has flexible 1/2" lines and will lay over out of the way. I dont know what fuel pump you are using nor how it is plumbed. That will dictate what you have to do the move canister out of the way.