dripley

That is good to hear. Always good to see the solution works.

i used this.http://www.heatertreater.net/?gclid=CLP4wJHR78kCFYEfHwodHr4HLw

Tried to take my insert out the other day and was gouging it up so bad I quit. I was hoping the easy way would show up here. Once out I think I could beat it back in no problem.

You are making me feel better. Just weighed my self on the way home from Alabama and grossed out at 23k. About 500 pounds more than the last time I weighed myself. Buzzin, the fenders look great.

Just putting this out there for thought. I went thru the rebuild thing almost 6 years ago. Bad experience for me, but at the time it seemed worth the gamble compared to a dealer priced replacement. As I remember it was going to be just north of $2k and I did not have it. I ended up spending a whole lot more when it was all said and done but sure did not see that coming. Any way what I am thinking is, how re build able is an ECM that is 18 years old? Is the wait to start light just the start of the rest of it going out? How much life do they have in them even if they are not exposed to a lot stray ac voltage? I personally dont know and maybe just playing devils advocate here. The thing that gets me is when my second rebuild went out about a year later, I ended up at a local mechanic in a small town in TN. He hooked me up with a Cummins ECM, programming, and install for $1400, 4 to 5 years ago. Unless he towed the truck to a dealer, he had a way to program on his own. I wish I had questioned him on how he was doing it. I was just happy to have it back. I dont mean to knock Module Masters at all. They might be what every one is looking for. Mainly just curious how long you could expect to get out of an OE ECM.

I already had manual tow mirrors and thats why i did not need the brackets. Hawkez is right you will need them if you do not already have the tow mirrors.

Just a minor distraction.

Good to hear she is ok. You are right it could have been a lot worse.

I think that is the ones I bought. Though I was able to find them w/o the brackets IIRC. Hence the cheaper price. They fit good and still look good. The mirrors do vibrate a little on the interstate but not enough to bother me.

do you have a link to the ones you looked at? I believe that is the ones that I have. $200 for the pair as I recall.

When I went thru my debacle with a rebuilt ECM, I kept the second one even though the cruise light was constantly illuminated and the cruise did not work. When that one died a year later the light was still illuminated. I had the ECM replaced with a Cummins one. The light went out and it and the truck ran fine afterwards. I cant say that is definitely the OP's solution, but it did solve my issue. As far as mechanics, certified or not, they are like superintendents, some are better than others.

My after market heated/power tow mirrors don't have the emblem on them.

I bought a cluster from the junkyard for $100 about 6 years ago. Still sitting on a shelf in my shop. I am assuming the $1000 you spent was just for diagnostics. I would be plenty pissed if I had to pay them a dime since it seems they dont seem to know what they are doing.

Wow 755* that's a wood stove DW!!!

This could be a case of the electrically challenged leading the more so electrically challenged.

Is this the same NCAA we have on the east coast? i dont follow it much, but good luck.

It is actually only 35' but it does look huge in the picture. Since my clutch install and being able to use the comp, 90 is a possibility. I dont think I want to be in the cap when the tires start flying off of it. I dont think they would like that. not sure whats going on with the replies. I tried to edit my spelling and ended up with the double post thingy.

On a cold start, 40 or below I think they will cycle and pull your bolt meter down then turn off and the gauge will go back up. Then it repeats until the engine warms up. It is more involved than that but if they were cycling you would know it. From the way your gauge was looking you were not charging at all. There is no regulator on the alternator that I know of. It is in the PCM and it uses info from the battery temp sensor to regulate the output. That could blow the fuse. If you look in the PDC, on the fender well next to the battery, there should be a 40a fuse for the alternator. Pretty sure it is 40a. The underside of the lid will have a directory of the fuse and relay layout.

You are right, the voltage regulator is in the pcm. I noticed in the video that when you drove off the problem is already there. The volt gauge is only sitting a 8 volts and should be near the center of the gauge if all is right and the grid heaters are not cycling. Auto zone can check the batteries to see whether one or both are bad. If one is bad you should replace both. Have you tried any of the diagnostics for the 1682 code?http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/224-p1682-charging-system-voltage-too-low If your are electrically challenged as I am you could throw a battery temp sensor at it and see if that helps, they are not expensive, but you run the chance of buying parts you dont need. If one or both of your batteries are bad the parts wont help. Hopefully we can get some advice from the more electrically proficient.

I dont know that anybody just keeps them on a rack for sale, but there are plenty of places that will make one. I dont know enough about any of them to recommend anyone over another however.

Thats good to know. Thanks.

I have done it myself also and it is not difficult just time consuming as Mike says.

i did not know about a timer. I thought all you needed was the heated mirror and the switch. Where is said timer located?

One end has a bushing and the other a ball stud, not much different than a tie rod end. The bushing could be worn out, but on these trucks I doubt the bushing would go before the ball stud. Mine is definitely the the ball. I think when I change the track bar I will get a straight edge and see if the axle is warped.

The track bar mounts to the axle on the passenger side, comes over towards the drivers side up and around the diff and bolts to the frame above the axle. It is not connected to any of the steering. The ball stud at the frame connection is shot and is popping around in the socket. Mine is clearly audible. If you get under the truck and have some move your steering wheel back and forth and that joint is moving, it is time for a new one.