dripley

There have been a couple instances with a bad circuit breaker. They replaced them with different one but I dont know what they replaced them with. Some one will be along that can shed some light on it.

Did you have anything on the line to protect the sender from the VP pulsations? Not sure there is a sender alive that lasts long with no protection. Snubber or needle valve?

Look on your glove box door. If it is still readable it should say there. Another way is to jack up the rear end and spin one of the tires. If the other side turns the same way it is LS. If they spin opposite direction it is open.

Sitting watching the news and seeing lots fire in Oregon. I will be keeping all of you out that way and every where on the west coast in our thoughts and prayers. Wish I could send ya'll some of these storms we have brewing in the Atlantic. The gulf coast and Florida are getting another dose of a tropical storm soon after going thru a hurricane not long ago. Maybe God is trying to tell us something.

I have to agree @Threadzy on finding the problem first. You can flush a lot of cash down the toilet hoping this or that might fix the problem. FWIW my HX35 has 510k on it. Rebuild kits for them are about $50. DAP has them.

I think we will keep all of the folks out the way in our prayers. The nightly news covered it pretty well tonight. Not a place I would want to be right now. God bless you @JAG1 and all of you in harms way.

With the engine is off there is no oil circulating and that can exaggerate the play somewhat. So before I would condemn the turbo do a pressure check on the system as advised above.

Most of here dont go to shops except as a last resort. We kind of rely on one another to help find the solutions for 2 reasons. 1 to save the money and 2 so we hope we did it right. Plus this is the glue that holds this place together, Several years ago my company sent me to Missouri on a day trip. My project manager asked me if the AC worked. Well it had not worked for about 3 years and I told him I was fine I just roll the windows down and drive. That entire trip it rained and was 95 out the whole way up and back to NC. I jumped on here and had all the info I needed and rebuilt the whole system. The parts cost me $250 excluding the evaporator and has worked fine ever since, That would have cost me 7 or 800 bucks. The system is pretty simple unless you have to chase wiring issues. I despise wiring issues. The mechanical is easy for me. Not knocking your advise. All depends on what you want tackle. Plus Dubai is a bit of a long drive.

I have used Steve White a couple times too. Matter of I walked the parts dept and asked for a part they ad advertised on ebay. They quoted the regular price but sold it to me for the ebay price. LMV Truck might have replacement. Google the part # and see what shows up.

Shazbot!!!

At least he would be a happy roofer.

I think my truck just got insulted. I will go out and ask her later. I'll have you know she gets only the best genuine parts, as this label will attest to. I like the candy bars.

I am just happy that @IBMobile didn't have to drive all the way home with you stuck to the roof.

Welcome Jerry. I think you can find most anything you need here. I am driving the same truck but 510k on it. 202k seems so long ago now. Dave

Well 2 days on the 15 dollar MAP sensor and it is still working fine. Maybe I should start pool on how long it will last.

I went down this rabbit hole back in 09 or 10 and it was no fun. I dont know what it is that makes the ECM's such a pain. ACS seems to have more good than bad reviews though. I would most likely go to them myself but hope that day never comes. This day and time I would probably drop $2500 on a new one to avoid the horror story again. That is if you could find a new one.

Be sure and check # to the pump and there is an arrow on the key but I cant remember which way it faces, towards or away from the pump. I am assuming that "they" are Thoroughbred. They should know.

That key is not only to hold the gear and theshaft of the pump together. It's other big job is to align the pump for timing purposes. As squashed as your is it surprises me you have not had issues prior to this. Your timing would definitely be off. If the slot is not damaged you should be able to install a new key but it has to be right one. The key # is on the pump. I have put 2 pumps on mine and verified the number on both of them. The key also has an arrow on it for intsalling it in right direction. The keys have slight offset on them to get the pump timing right. They figure all of that at the rebuilding facility while its on the test bench. That smashed key is an instalation error. I dont think any one will warraty it. But who knows. As far as what the timing being off will do depends on whether its retarded or advanced the timing. I would defer to smarter than me folks for an answer to that.

You can just replace the key. The key number is on the pump name plate I believe. I know it's on the pump somewhere. Surprised you did not have issues since install. That key is really smashed.

No. I bought the one in the picture by Standsrd. It was $100 when l bought it back last Thanksgiving. It's now $200. It was the price that originally drew me to it plus l have used other Standard products with great succes. I also a few months back for $15. It did not either. Popped a 237 code. Yeah l know. Dont have clue when l could have reversed them but evidently I did. Dont remeber noticing last time l swapped one. Now for the good part or maybe the not so bright part. Put the new sensor in and same problem. So now l figure its wiring problem. I figured maybe in the adapter pigtail. So get under the and umplug the harness. Disconnected the Comp connection and thats when my brain clicked and l remembered I had to disconnect the comp to remove the knee bolster. . Reconnected the Comp and all is well. The old, new and $15 cheapie work just fine. Left the cheap one in to see how it does. Sure glad I did not have pay another $200 for one. I also figured the above paradraph was duly deserving of quadruple dumbass and threw another double for good. I am definitely not MAP sensor poor now.

My truck has been eating MAP sensors lately. I can't remeber how or when the the first of the last 3 failed but it seems to me it happened after another repair. This last one was working when I parked the truck Friday and replaced the master cylinder. Get that done and start the truck and the MAP is not working, complete with another p0237 code. No readingmfrom it on the scan gauge. The previous one failed when the VP went over Thanksgiving. I bought a couple cheap a member here found as a spare. 15 bucks so I had little faith in it working and it did not. The odd thingmI found on the truck was that I apparently some where in the past have swapped my IAT and MAP locations. The Ist was just behind the filter canister and the MAP was back behind there where the IAT should be. Dont know when or how I did this but tjats where they were. Since they were all the same part I figured the part was faulty from Oriellys. This is the offending part. This one was inder warranty and they replacedmfor free. The good thing since the part had doubled in price from $100 to $200. Makes me wonder if they are replacing them. My question would be is there something in the IAT area that would eat the MAP sensors? I dont know how I reversed them but it was most evidently me.

Two great nations seperated by a common language. We suffer from that here some. I have worked up and down the east coast short off the new england staes. And from NC to Nebraska and many places north and south of that line. Every where kind of has there english too. Not so as between the UK and USA though, from my experience that is.

The fan vents are polycarbonate while the others were the white plastic.

You got them my friend. Be safe out there. We finally got a break ftom heat and humidity out this way. Hope it stays away.