dripley

when i installed the injectors i had 2 new crossover tubes. i installed one in #6 and one in #1. 1 is not weeping and 6 i cant see. i do know the other 4 are weeping a little. i can idle the engine while parked and nothing is dripping like before. i will probably put new ones on and see what happens. i did take the one from #1 and polishe it up with a scotch brite and installed it in #3 but it is still weeping. i had the most problem with that one and had to change it before i did the injectors. maybe i have been overtightening them in the past i dont know. i did not have any problem with them until recently. i believe ther are plenty of guys here that have not had that problem so hopefully you want. DAP has the cross overs for $24 ithink. ther is a local place here where i am working and i got them for $28. i will probably buy a couple stick them in and see what happens. idid install new o rings onth the for originals.

back up lights have been around so long i just figured they were mandantory on a vehicle. icant remember anyone ever checking mine duriing a safety inspection. but some of those inspections are a joke anyway.

from what i have learned here 14 to 15 is a good number for wot. mine is at 20 and 17 and i think i am going to turn it down a little when i get home.

i dont remember reading that the 4" was going to give me more hp. it was going to allow the engine to breath better allowing for power addons. of course 6 years ago i did not know squat about thewe vehicles and did most of my reading from the advertisements. probably not the best way to educate yourself.

i always thought the 4X4's were the ones with the problem. do te 2wd have it also?

there should be a connection on the tranny for the back up lights. it is on the rear passenger side on the 6 speed, but i dont know where it is on the 5 speed.

can you explain what you mean by it doesnt fuel like it should?

when you say the fuel pressure is good, just what is it. you should be looking for 18 or19 at idle and 15 or 16 at wot.

Blueox who is in and out here at times knows a fair amount about the nv5600. you might be able to pm him and pick his brain.

i have never built a tranny. that, the 100 ton press and some special tools i read about stopped me from even thinking about it. but if it turns out fairly easy, i have got one in my shop to work on. i'd be interested in seeing what you find out and how it goes.

that all depends on how you treat it. keep good fuel pressure to it. put it on a 2 cycle oil diet,1 oz per gallon. hopefully it will last a long time. it is mechanical and electronic so one never knows the exact longevity of something like this. it might last 500k, or 100k. only time will tell.

i have a blue chip in mine. they are pricey though. i works fine, but so did the other two when they were working. longevity is yet to be detirmined. DAP is another source in the vendors section. i would think price, warrnty, and do they back up the warranty pretty important. you can istall it yourself and save some cash. it is not that difficult.

i noticed the oil growing about 2 weeks ago while pulling my rv over the mountains. once i got the rv off it quit iguess the extra loading just aggravated an already present problem. went to my daughters house this weekend and ran pretty hard going there and it did it again it looked worse this time so i slowed down and continued on. stopped one more time and thats when i saw coolant every where. it must have just started because it was leaking pretty good. i was almost there so i just limped i and parked. got it all together and nomore coolant leak. seems i still have a little fuel weeping at the cross over tubes though. this all happen at 240k miles.

whats he going to do when blows the Dmax?

the last time i did my fronts i did not have them turned. not so much to save any money, but coming home on the weekend leaves very little time to get some one to turn them. most shops i my area who do this close at 12 on saturday. mine were in decent shape so i let it go. i wont be able to next time. i am thinking getting a spare set just for such instances. i hope my exhaust brake will make that a long time in the future. mine are, however not noisy at all. quiet like always.

no coolant in the oil. i was getting fuel in the oil, thats why it was growing. i just started loosing coolant and it turned out to be the water pump. hopefully the new injectors and new o rings on the cross over tubes will take care of my oil growing problem.

it does fit like an o ring. a gasket would fit between to flat surfaaces. the orings on my injector fit in a groove but they were round. the ring tha fit in the water pump was square sided but fit in a groove.

by your remarks i can see you love and respect what your truck can do and is capable of. i joined here 1 1/2 years ago not knowing a damn thing. i have learned enough to get another half million out of mine. that said you have to do it your way. take what you learn here and apply it as you see fit. there is no better steward of your vehicle than yourself.

my new pump came with a gasket that was square sided and fit in agroove cut into the pump. it was taller than the groovebut not as wide. when looking at the old pump i did not think it ahd a gasket. but upon further investigation you could see it, but it was flush with the pump flange and blended in with everything else until i prodded it. i ran the engine some with it about half full andit leakeda fair amount. i kept tightening the bolts and it kept slowing down to a drip. sunlight was fading so i put some more water in it for a test drive. when i got back it was not leaking. i am still watching it now with no leaks seen at the present. i never had a leak disappear after driving so i will keep watching. yalls input is appreciated and if you have more put it on me.

i am speaking of the gasket that came with the water pump not the o rings on the injectors or the cross over tubes.

it have to really shorten a story here. pulled my rv for the first time in a while. pulled it over the bluridge mountains at 22,700 total. notice on filllup that i had oil on the rv and the under carridge of the truck. check my oil and i have an extra quart in the crank case. figure i have a leaky injector or 2. been wanting some rv 275's for a while and ordered a set from DAP. GREAT PRICE AT $269 + $100 core. drove to my daughters house to install and sprung a coolant leak just before arriving. spent the day installing the rv's and then dealt with the coolant leak. from the best i could tell it was coming from the water pump. could not see it well enough to tell for sure, but it appeared to be streaming from the pulley on the water pump. got a new water pump and installed it. the leak was reduced but still there. every time i tightened the bolts a little more it got smaller. but i felt i was overtightening the bolts big time. it is late and i gave up on fixxing the leak tonight but wanted to drive the truck and see how the new injectors were working. so i put another gallon of water in her and took her for a spin. i mile out and one mile back. parked the truck and no water leak.temp is now at 180+, it has apparently stopped. and i cant make it leak now.have i missed something or do you have to drive the truck to seat the gasket? it was rubber and fit into a groove on the pump. does it take operation af the vehicle to seat this gasket?:shrug:

what ever you end up doing, do not let dodge install the in tank pump. that $1100 will buy more lp than you will ever need. i got one for $1000 bucks about 4 years ago and they are worthless. i installed an AD on mine about 6 months ago. when i turn my key on(just on no starter bump) the lift pump cycles and shuts down. it is only on for a split second and that is all. if i bump the starte it comes on for about 25 seconds. during that time if try and start the engine the pump cuts to about half pressure for the engine to start. full pressure will not allow the engine to start. pessure is returne dot full pressure after start up. long story short, key on slight bump to lp, bump starter lp on for 25 seconds, starting engine lp to about half pressure to start. on another note here, do you have a fuel pressure gauge? if not i would hightly encourage you to get one so you can monitor the fuel system in your truck. might save you vp later. have you ever change the vp?

i am taking from your original post that you do have a fp gauge. if i am wrong be sure and get one with whatever pump you decide to go with.

sounds like you played my numer on the second day.

as i remember DR you told me you had 1688 and 1689 plus a couple more concening the grid heaters. those 2 dont make it look good.