dripley

i am trying to install my new fuel pressure gauge. got the gauge in and wired. installed my big line kit and connected my AD to the old filter canister. i ended up with a small leak at both the vp and under the canister. they are both very small and i can make them go away. but i noticed that i have some fuel at the head and intake that must be leaking form the injuector lines. is ther any kind of seal on those connections or should tightning them be sufficient? i dont want to over tighten something and break it. my luck with anything hasnt been good lately.i put another new tstat in my truck before i came down last week end and virtually no differance. never saw 150* but it ran between 165 and 185. up and down the whole trip and this was towing my rv. gcvw has to be around 20k. did see it spike to 191 a few times but then right back into the range mentioned above.before installing the big line kit i had the fuel cannster removed. been that way for 2 or 3 months. i never installed the bolts and did not think any thing of it. but it appears those bolts help hold down the intake. could i have been loosing boost pressure there and could that have been causing the banks to defuel the engine?the other odd thing is after installing the big line kit i drove 16 mile to the rv running 190* all the. plenty of power, boost pushing 31#. i might could see the boost since i reinstalled the filter cannister bolts, but what could i have messed with that would have brought the temp up to normal. i have had the temp problem for a while and grown somewhat used to it. all as worked well until the previous trip when i had low temp and losss of power. the trip to work this am was at 190*. i am confused again:shrug:. we drove home 350 miles and the temp held pretty much just below 190* for the most part. sitll lost temp at any redlight, down to 170 to 175 then right back up when driving again. the mystery continues.

i too. stayed late after work to install my big line kit. had to small leaks i just coulnt quite stop and then found what i believe are 2 more small leaks. got home right befor dark, go inside the rv and the ac aint working. spent 2 hours working on that and it just finally just starte working right. that was the only bright spot in a long day. but i am sure the problem is till there.

i have not done a load test on the batteries. cant seem to get home early enough. i believe i got this backwards. the problem i am having is with the power converter not inverter. AC to DC, not DC to AC. still had the same problem last night. lites flickering or not working at all on the dc systems. AC system seems fine. except for what happend next. my air conditioning went nutty last night. the breaker was tripped and i reset it, it came on ran for a few minutes and then the motor that runs both the fan for the exterior coil and the blower for air ditribution cut off, the compressor kept running until the breaker tripped. went up top and uncovered the ac unit and the motor was hot though i could hold my hand on it for a short while. spun the fan and it spun very freely. the motor should have some sort of thermal protection on it and i would suspect that. i have 120 volts coming in to each side of the main breaker, have 118 volts at the breaker for the ac. it was late and hot and dark so i did not try opening up the connections at the unit to see what i had at the unit. that will have to wait until next week. i swapped my power source with the space next to me and turned it back on and it ran fine for a bout 10 to 15 minutes then did the same thing. so now i am hot a sweaty it s 10pm and igave up. turne it on a couple more times and just stood under one of the vents trying to cool off a little. the third time i started it i just let it run and it ran all night coming on and off with the tstat. could the temp drop outside have affeted this?it did drop about 5* in the 2 hours i spent on it. it was working fine when i left theis am. just in case you cant tell by my post electricity,120volt ac or 12volt dc, is a very weak point for me. you kinda have to dumb down for me to understand.

that was a ton of work. it appears that the plumbers on rv's are worse on the framing than the ones i use out here building restaraunts. always having to watch them to be sure they dont cut columns or beams to route their piping. hope i find nthing like that in mine. i dfinately wont until it cools off a little.

see i'm getting confused again. glad your doing good though.

speaking for me and i hope for anoldbiker, i am glad tht the primer you posted was short and to the point, and you did not destroy what i have believed most of my adult life. i am not sure i could have stood that. i do enjoy the technical posts that are on here and try to read and absorb them. but like anoldbiker, sometimes i get confused. please dont stop putting the info out there because i know it helps alot of people. i'm sorry:doh:, i think i am getting confused again. ps ISX. hows the back?

what i know about this would fill up a thimble compared to what yall have already discussed. what i was told many years ago was the multi weight motor oils, using 10/40 as an example, would act like a 10 weight when it was cold and a 40 weight when it was hot. this allowed you to run it all year in most weather conditions. Please dont tell me what i have believed all these years is wrong. it always made sense to me.

pretty darn well said.

i'll check the battery when i get in to night. when i set up the trailer sunday evening i ran the landing gear down on battery power with no problem. those things have been slow on both my 5th wheels and this one is heavier than my first one. might have been a little slower than normal but have not done it in awhile. i plugged the trailer in shortly after that. went inside and turned some lights on and all was working well for about 30 minutes and they started flickering. turned them off for while and then turned them back on and they worked fine for about 30 minutes and started flashing again. it was late i i just turned them off and used the 120volt lights. --- Update to the previous post... the light s will run on just the battery. i only have one. it is connected. the connections are clean and tight. i have not had it disconnected long enough to see how long it will hold its charge. i will check the battery tonight if it is not to late. it does act like it is some sort of thermal device, but i am used to something like that just trip and having it either auto reset or manually reset. thes light are flicering 5 times a srcond. it is quite odd. all the 120 volt stuff works fine. the AC, washer, dryer, water heater, and lights. dont think it is there. i have a bug for checking polarity and gfi's.

i just got my 5th wheel out into service again. first time it has been out in alittle over a year. when i used the 12 volt lights all was good for about 30 minutes. then the lights started flashing on and off rapidly and continued to do this until i turned them off. i have had them on several times since with the same results. i never had to work on this system before and am not sure where to start. any suggestions would be appreciated.

are you and your future wife registered at any good diesel parts store? a vp would be a great wedding gift.

Yeah! i was wondering how well they would ride with a rock or mud packed into one spot. be hell to keep balanced.

i got mine at auto zone in OK. it was about $140 including core. my case was damaged and i could not re turn it. it has been working for 4 months no problems.

all that depends on what turns out to be wrong. the throw out bearing is not very expensive. the pressure plate is probably not o bad. a rebult 5 speed is the worst. i have seen them for $1500 to $2000. just saw them while i was shopping for my 6 speed. Rockauto.com is a good place to look for the first two. i cant recomend any one for the tranny. some of the other guys here have bought them and possibly could recomend someone. any way you look at it the tranny has to come off to see what it is. if you plan on some one else doing the work, it wouldnt hurt to let them drive it and see what they think.

con grats, Russ. love them grand children.

ther are pros and cons about both. i got a manual because i had heard about problems with the autos. mine 6 speed lasted 9 and 1/2 years. theyquit making them 5 of 6 years ago, the nv's anyway. if i had taken better care of it i might have got a good bit more.

once you get inside that tranny you are out of my league. ther are several guys here who would be alot better at answering those type of questions. i can replace one but i have never rebuilt one. that is a fair amount of work to remove, maybe we can get some one elses in put to help.

should be a plug on the side of the tranny. my nv5600 has one on the driverside.

check your fluid level. sounds like the gears are rattling.

the only time that bearing is underload is when the clutch is depressed. when you depress the clutch it is that bearing that engages the pressure plate, pushes the springs in and takes the pressure of the clutch disc or discs in your case. it should not turn except when the pedal is pushed. i have never worked a double disc before so i dont know any thing about them. could be something loose there. the rattle your speaking of do you have it a low rpm and it goes away as the rpm comes up?

i have had an e brake on for about 9 or 10 months and use all the time. i could clean it and see if that helps.if it would quit raining i could install my new fp gauge. got every thing here to do it with.i have had a temp problem for a while. i install a new tstat and it works for a little while then will bounce around 170 to 180. i have been thru 6 tstats in the past 2 1/2 years with the same results. i was going to buy one from the cummings dealer but they wanted $70 for it. i dont know what temp the water was when the gauge said 150, but the upper radiator hose was hot. i could only hold it for 1/4 or1/2 a second. i would have to agree with the temp dropping that quick it sounds like the tstat got stuck open, i am a little tired of buying new tstats. i might just have to buy the cummings and see what happens. $70 just sucks. the one i have now came from NAPA about 3 months ago.

this happened to me 3 times yesterday coming home. i stopped and bought a drink. when pulling back on the four lane i hammered it and it took off. hit 20#s of boost, 800* egt and and it would hardly go any further. egt was moving up and down 500* fluidly not jerky. let off the throttle, slowed and hit again. same thing only went a little faster and higher on the gauges. did it a few more times and after 1 or 1 1/2 mile it was working just fine. the second time i stopped for fuel and it was doing it again only this time i noticed my ect gauge was only reading 150*. bought my fuel and looked under the hood. saw nothing out of the ordinary. upper radiator hose felt very normal. i could not hold my hand on it very long. took off from there and the same thing. took about a mile and a half to start working normal again. got better as the temp rose. the third was pretty much a repeat of the second. it was like the engine was defueling for some reason. other than those times everything was normal. any thoughts. i could pull no codes with the key. my fuel pressure gauge is broken and i could not tell whether it was fluctuating or not.

if it seizes or comes apart it is going to damage something in the clutch. maybe even the input shaft. there is just no telling when that might happen. you have to remove the tranny to get to it.

the noise while pushing the clutch in does sound like a throw out bearing to me. that might have something to do with the gears being hard to engage though i would think you would have that problem in the other gears also. i dont really know anything about double disk clutches.

i have 3 gauges run off the #5 fuse with the quick tap thingy stodg is talking about. the egt probe should be installed in the manifold like stodg shows in the photo. just drill tap it put some anti sieze compound on the threads and tighten it up. mine has been on 5 years and no leak. i dont know what the ceramic washer is. i dont remember one on mine. be careful to get out he shavings from drilling and tapping. i have an electronic fuel pressure gauge ion mine right now, but it is broken and in am hopefully replacing today with an Isspro mechanical . i am gonna hook it up just like Mike has explained,