dripley

For a permanent installation you would want the sensor after the fuel filter. You can tell if the filter is getting clogged by seeing a pressure drop on the gauge. As far as the injection pump, the 216 code is telling you it is malfunctioning. The way it is working is telling you the same thing. I know of nothing else you can do but try the 2 stroke and if it starts working right, just another confirmation the pump is shot. But the 2 stroke will just be a band aid.

Wally world 2 stroke is fine and the cheapest I have found. Any TCW3 2 stroke will work. If the diesel your are buying has bio diesel in it you are good as is. The fuel pressure you checked is from the lift pump. The pump that is failing is the the injection pump/VP.

cant open the file.

I do agree with you because at least half the blinding headlights I encounter are older vehicles with the fluted lenses that cast light every where. Now ther was one that got behind me the other night. it was a very new Ford 2500 or up that had replaced his factory lights with what ever. He was behind me and I had to adjust all my mirrors off of him just to drive in front of him. He was lighting tree tops up in front of me.Then he was pissed I flipped him off even though he was blinding me from behind. I have also noticed that most people will not flash someone with bright lights. I dont if I am not the leader of a pack but damn sure will if I am the one getting blinded.

Well sunny beach. What keeps a new one from doing the same thing?

The pump I just replaced was a BC pump. 270k out of it. At the time I bought it, 2010, it was the only pump I could find that came with a new FPCM/PSG on it. He did advertise some other extras so I bought one. $1700 at the time, but I had the money at the time. The one one from DAP was under $1k. While I got good service from the BC pump I am not sure that it is that much better than what I bought now. Only time will tell.

I put the Hella's in my old housings and they did help but oncoming lights seem to be my biggest problem. Get blinded and have to steer by the line on the side of the road if there is one. 2 weeks ago leaving the job in the rain and dark with stop sign coming. the approaching vehicle's lights were so bright that I ran the stop sign and almost caused a 3 car pile up. Caught it just in the nick of time and just avoided everyone. Not a pleasant experience especially since it would have been my fault, bright lights or not.

Never have understood why you cant reuse them after removing one.

Is there pipe inside the headache rails? I would think the frame would get mighty hot going down the road if not. Pretty cool though.

Sounds like he has no power to the brake switch, which is over my head.

Man, it's like a geriatric ward around here.

The MAP should toss a code , 237, like Mike says. Mine did both times it failed. Just got replacing mine along with a VP. Did this just happen out of the blue or is this how its run since you created it?

Isn't the 01 wiring harness a bit different from the 02 harness. I believe the oil pressure and MAP sensor are different. A bad MAP will make your truck gutless, but why it comes life at 2000 rpm is strange

You used 4 led's? I have been looking at nonsport housings like those thinking the reflectors would direct the light better since they dont appear to have a reflcetor on the bottom.

I have eagle eye stock style replacements in mine but they are 8 years old and pvery cloudy. Thought something besides stock might be better for LED's. Just dont know. @joeld79 are your stock style or aftermarket?

No hate from me because I believe they can work. I get blinded as many or more new cars as I believe poor retrofits. So do share the housings you used. Never thought about location of the diodes in respect to the filaments.

They have a decent scrap value i believe not to mention a secondary used market.

$1k for a VP sucks especiallyif you don't have it. Condsider this, mine went 2 days after the 216 code appeared. I was 150 miles from home and 100 miles from the job. This added another $700 to the failure. Fortunately the company I work for picked up the rental car and the motel and I am not out that cash. If yours dies in a bad place it just gets more expensive. There are 2 good articles on the repair here and any number of us that are willing to help you thru it. It is not a difficult repair if you can turn a bolt. But slow and deliberate is the way to go for the first time.

I always wondered why it was so easy to get the axles back in. Thought maybe I was that good or just lucky.

The 216 code is timing failure in the pump. There is timing piston in the pump and sounds like it is hanging until the pump warms up and then gets free. You might get away with it for bit but sooner or later it will fail. One day or a year, who knows. Just went thru this on mine right before Thaksgiving. Same 216 code but mine began hard starting a couple weeks before. Then the idle starting acting up a little on Friday. Then on the drive back to work on Sunday the pump let go and spit the 216 code again.

Where do you hide #4?

@Dieselfuture put new updated trunions on his along with several issues with he seals coming off. The trunions he used were not cheap. I bought a set of used of rocker assemblies off of a 6.7 that had the updated trunions in them. Thats the 200 bucks I added to my cost above. I machine work was pretty minimal also. The head was in very good condition according to the machinest.

That last was a pull was tough even with a 24" breaker bar. There more nuts and bolts to deal with than any 3 repairs put together that I have done to this truck. It still was not difficult to do, just time consuming. I will most likely put studs on it next year. Money was tight at the time. I also left out the updated rocker assemblies I put in due gauling on some of mine. That would have brought me to $1600.

I spent $1400. I did reuse the stock bolts and maching was minmal. That included my garage.

Thinking of doing it yourself then?