Cronus577

For me I just want to be fancy and different, and there are times when I really wish I could pull the Mirrors in for parking

Mine ran almost $470

Looks awesome. I just put on a pair of 4th gen style power / heated with signal and power folding on my truck last week. Coming from some off brand shaky non-power tow mirrors that were on the truck when I bought it, went through a car wash and the rollers smacked them and the mirror started peeling from the back plate and was distorting my view. 1aauto sells some really solid mirrors made by Trail Ridge. I like them a lot, no more shaky mirrors

Double check all the intake plate bolts. Mine ended up having a loose bolt and was causing a boost leak. retorqued all of them and was good to go.

You're essentially just allowing the A/C to be on or off in whatever position your want your vents to be in. Like Max A/C, Face A/C, Head and feet, and defrost / feet all make the compressor cycle. Doing it on a switch would allow you to put it on whichever vent you would like and command the compressor to turn on or off on the switch regardless of what position your vents are in. It's in just like all the newer vehicles.

I was actually thinking about doing this about a week ago. I'd love to be able to kick on the AC and get it cold and then just keep it on max A/C but turn it off to keep circulating the cold air. I'm glad I'm not the only one who's thought about it!

Grab yourself a feeler gauge and check your valve lash. Maybe change the diff fluid if you haven't already.

From was I was looking up royal purple with the friction modifier is what people like to run. But it’s like $18 a quart

Yeah that’s what I was thinking too. I will have to look up the VIN soon and check, no tag on the diff cover. Will have to do it as soon as I get the extra funds, it’s like $100 in fluid per diff.

Sounds like fun, One thing I forgot to mention is that I was doing some research and some people were saying TC lockup should only happen in OD with a stock valve body but mine locks up at exactly 40mph in third under acceleration. I’ll definitely have to check it when I replace the transmission filter. Going through all the fluids since owning the truck, got the front and rear diff and trans fluid to replace. Hopefully new fluid stops this rear end from popping on sharp turns and low speeds. Going to have to remember to check IBMobile’s setup.

I purchased this 01 24v about 2 years ago and the previous owner said that he had a local diesel performance shop put in a FASS, Billet flex plate, and a triple disk torque converter. I'm not having any issues with slipping or anything, when the transmission shifts it's firm and grabs the gears instantly. While I was under the truck doing the oil change I decided to take off the inspection plate and just take a peak. I was wondering if anybody could tell me if this TC and Flex plate look stock or aftermarket. I've tried looking at a bunch of different torque converters to try to match the color but I can't seem to find anything, and as far as the quick and firm shifts, what are the chances for it having an upgraded valve body? I just wanted to make sure before getting a Quadzilla (Mostly for monitoring right now since I can't confirm the drivetrain). Not looking to go crazy or anything for power right now, I'd just like to know for future reference for later when power adders fit into the picture. (Currently working on getting all the steering and suspension dialed in). Any input would be grateful, I'm sure I'll know for sure when I pull everything apart to do the rear main and build the trans later on when I graduate school. BBE513F1-91CA-47AC-BB28-6C257C261F99.heic 094BE6B8-B09D-41AD-9DCB-CADF5A7A5285.heic

How are you liking the K27? I've been pondering about getting one since they came out but just haven't pulled the plug yet since I've been rehauling all of my interior / steering / suspension first. My truck now has a stock HY35, I know an HX35 is a good upgrade to the HY35 but I haven't been able to find one for a good price.

Despite what everyone is saying, my truck had the same symptoms as yours, instant crank when cold but long crank / no start when hot. Ended up just being the fuel pressure regulator banjo bolt on the side of the VP44. After I replaced that it hasn't had any issues, cheap part and only takes a few minutes to change. Worth the price before assuming the VP44 is toast.

None as far as I know, Took it off and put its straight into the box the wicked wheel game in. I can get some pictures of it. I don’t need it and it’s not an in demand item so I could do like $15 shipped if you’re on the lower 48 states. Been sitting in my box of parts for like 3 years.

I never tried. It started happening out of the blue with no trouble codes so all I could think of is either the VP went bad with no symptoms or the overflow was sticking when it was hot.

If you need, I have my stock wheel from my HX35 I took off to put on a Wicked Wheel. Lmk if you're still looking.

If it comes down to it, I have a spare 01' 24v A/T ECM I took from a junkyard motor with blowby. I've had it sitting around as a spare for my truck as a just in case.

I had the same issue with my 2001 24v, instant start up when cold but long cranks when hot. It turned out to be a bad overflow valve. I replaced it and it doesn't skip a beat.

I just recharged my AC in my 01' after I had a compressor failure and replaced every system component. If the AC system has been taken apart the accumulator will need to be replaced as well due to moisture saturating the desiccate. You must add sp-20 (Pag 100) oil to the replaced system components. Accumulator: 2oz. Condenser: 1oz. Evaporator: 2oz. Whole AC system: 6.2 oz. Vacuum down the system to 500 micron or 29.9 inHG for an hour to remove moisture, turn pump off and let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour and check for system leaks. If the system doesn't leak proceed with charging with 32oz pure R134A. I used Johnsen's 134a Keep an eye on your pressures as this would tell you everything you need to know if your system is working properly. If your pressures are within spec, take off the blend door actuator and turn the door by hand and see if that changes anything. AC System pressures Manifold gauges and a vacuum can be rented from and auto parts store, but it cost me $333 to rent from O'rilleys. You can get a vacuum pump and manifold gauge kit on amazon for $80.

I thought about it, maybe in the future, just don't have the funds for it atm

I just had mind rebuilt by bluetop and it's awesome. Took out a ton of play in my steering. Now I'm sitting on a core if anyone needs one to send off and have rebuilt. I couldn't have any down time on my truck so i sourced a core and had it rebuilt and swapped it in

If your truck is a 2001 or 2002 4x4 I would recommend upgrading to the third gen brakes. Made a huge difference in braking in my 01

Here's how mine looked at 355k miles. Kind of blurry but still has factory crosshatching. I couldn't believe how clean the inside of this engine was

Is there a specific type of u-joint for each part, such as the front axle needs x type and the driveshaft needs y type or are they the same throughout the truck?

Hey guys, I'm looking for some recommendations on what ball joints U joints and wheel bearings I should get. It's for a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins. It has the drum brakes in the rear so I'm assuming it's the 2 wheel ABS for the wheel bearings. Just looking for something good that's not going to fail in 5k miles. And the ball joints I don't care if they're greasable or not. I've been hearing Moog has gone downhill and pretty much avoid them for the balljoints and if i'm not mistaken i've seen mopar1973man recommend duralast but I was looking them up and it appears they are manufactured by Federal mogul as well, so kinda thrown off on what brands I should go with. And as far as U-joints go, is there really any specific brand that stands out? TL;DR Which Ball joint, wheel bearing, and U-joints are going to be the best to replace the worn out stock stuff