trreed

Fly down to Mexico and paint it yourself!

BILT.

I'm really hoping I won't have to pull the basket. Thinking I'm going to pressurize the tank with more than my breath today and see if there is any cracked lines. Blowing into the tank last night I could get the pump to catch prime for a half a second but it wouldn't hold it. And @Mopar1973Man, there wasn't an additional pump on the frame that I could see.

He's got a 5 speed. Already has the HX. Plus it's a 99, so before the HY's time. Best idea to hold the gate closed longer is an adjustable boost elbow @weaselguys.

I've got this goofy situation going on and was hoping y'all could check my thinking. I'm working on a friends truck that started and died the other day. I get up there expecting to find a bad VP. Instead, I find there is no fuel getting to the lift pump. (Yes, it is a block mounted pump. 300k miles on it!) So I disconnect the suction line from the pump and blow into it. I can hear bubbles in the tank. Now, I pressurize the tank. Barely any fuel comes out. I reconnect all lines, bump the starter, and blow into the tank as the pump is running to force prime it. No go. Should I be looking at a partially plugged line? Or partially plugged basket?

That is similar to a J-hook. Never seen anyone use a turnbuckle before. It holds the wastegate closed, and allows more boost pressure to be built.

Why not pressurize the system from the VP fitting and see where the leak is coming from? Takes like 30 minutes.

You can feel up there and get the connector off without taking the bed off. A small set of needle nose pliers will help

Replacing the filters should take care of the fass sounding like a rock tumbler. It should purr smoothly.

I had an issue like that once. Could never figure it out, until I replaced the water separator. Fixed it and the pump ran normally from then on.

Yeah, that’s sucking air hard. If the quick connect is fully clipped onto the suction port of the basket, next is to look at the quick connect to pushloc adaptor and see if that connection is letting air in

Can you post a video of the fass sound? Upload it to youtube first.

Leaving it on lvl 4 all the time is still using wiretap, and 25% wiretap at a minimum is a lot. Try running on level 3 for a while and see what your mileage is. 3 is CANBus fueling only, and uses the entire 0-30 psi range of fueling. Your canbus fuel settings look pretty good for your mods, but if level 3 feels sluggish, you can bump those by 2% across the board as a start, and still control smoke very well.

I don't know about any pre-made downpipes like that. But it's just an 1/8" NPT bung that would be welded in there.

That won’t work in this instance. @Royal Squire has a 1/2” draw straw. You have a 3/8” suction port and 1/2” line.

If it sounds choppy while running it's sucking air. It does take care of air separation, but it is still possible for air to get past the filter, or there could be a suction leak beyond the pump, like in the JIC fitting above the return line. Double check all of your connections. I've found that quick connect fittings (particularly the style you're using) push on a lot farther than they appear before the click happens that indicates it's fully seated.

No, his fass has all pushloc or JIC fittings, and one hose clamp connection. Only quick connect is where the fass connects to the stock suction supply on the basket.

Those will help with a 62 mm. But they're way too small for a 66 mm. My recommendation still is to either find a good hx35, rebuild your current one, or consider a 62/65/12

Do you have larger injectors? If not, is going to be laggy. A 62 mm is usually a good first turbo upgrade for those looking for more power. A 62 can be run with stock injectors, but it is also laggy.

A quick search of the info you gave on the Garrett turbo returned a majority of turbos suited for cars. So without an actual model number off the Garrett, I wouldn't use it. I'm also wary of Cardone, purely because they supply parts stores with remanufactured turbos and charge 1k for them. As for your current turbo, 1/4" is a lot of radial play, but if there is 0 axial play and the compressor wheel isn't hitting the housing, its OK to run. My suggestion would be to pick up a good used genuine holset turbo (can be found on Facebook for $300 or less), or if you're adventurous, try rebuilding it yourself.

Rebuild. Larry B has a better than stock rebuild kit. @Mopar1973Man is the rebuild kit in the store?

The purpose of those plugs is to be able to monitor the ECM. Some tuners (Quadzilla, Edge, etc) use one of those connectors to monitor the ECM data and modify the signal for fueling and timing. Usually nothing goes in those plugs, which is why they are capped.

Data link connectors.

I thought '99 trucks had both styles of data link connectors - a 3 pin flat blade and also a 3 pin triangle. I didn't think they were that far forward though.

Yes. Tahoe had 185K on it. @Dieselfuture, I did rebuild that LS motor. It's still going strong and its been about a year now. Tahoe hated towing. Truck has 160k on it and loves towing. That motor hasn't been out of the frame. Sorry for the confusion.