2500ctd

Well I am in the 1200 max temp school of thought as well. However, I have also learned that 1300 is seeming just as fine. Truck wont hit 1200 empty wot. Usually levels around 1100, andbut the time that happens, I am too worried about johnny officer at those speeds. :whistle:When I am loaded I let it climb to no more than the 1250-1300 range. However only if I am just about at the top of the hill. Usually a decent hill in overdrive and kinda wanna hear the turbo and clean the carbon out. However on the steeper hills I drop to a gear, (manual downshift the auto) where it runs about 2k-2100 rpms at half peadl. EGT's usually hover around 900 then. I wouldnt want to keep it under a heavy load for a long time at high egt's.

Well I just got a new regulator and it is set for 20psi. Wasnt sure of the max pressure for a vp. CAnt too high a pressure rupture the diaphram as well? It isnt installed yet, but by the sounds of things. 20psi is still good. currently my range is 18 idle to 15 psi wot. However it drops with any throttle application. so the reg is just slow to umm regulate.

:doh:Got it. thanks.

oops, i never searched for "air conditiong" and "ac" was too short. Thanks Mike. I gots some reading too do. :thumb1:didnt see the clouds on the main page. That part is still new to me. Heard of them and onl just recently realized what they were for.

Well I ned to fix my AC been putting it off long enough. Read JOHNFAK's thread on his AC Work Read ISX's sticky at the top, and in Johns thread Mike mentioned he did some work too? Mike if you did I know had to have posted pix somewhere I keep seeing a pic you posted that had the heater/evap box pulled apart. I cant find a thread about that if you did. Be nice to have a thread for ac work/repair. I have a leak some where and hope it is under the hood. Well either way I will probably pull the box out to can the evap either way, as well, I doubt its ever been done and couldnt hurt. It used to freeze me out of the cab, but not anymore. I made a list and am slowly fixing all the little issues that have occurred over owning the truck. Time for a mini resto-mod.

Your doing this to a short bed? If so gotta post pix.

If it leaks again and you gotta pull it, NAPA sells a erpair line that has the quick connect fittings on about an 18" long tube. I would jb weld that into the top of the fuel module and they also sell a quick connect to a barb fitting in a 90 degree. Glad you got it fixed for now.

I am running a Walbro for the last 100K or so miles. Just replaced the pump casue it diesd on me during a road trip. After it cooled down started working again. Not bad. What are you using for a regulator? For a pre filter I am running one of these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-10210/ For a regulator I need to switch to one of these as now my pressure drops to about 15 at WOT down from 18 at idle. The pressure drops to 15 and does retrun to 18. Both with the old pump and new pump. I had to pump the old pump vack in casue I got a bad walbro out the box. Vendor swapped it no issues. For the regulator I am going to get one of these set to about 19psi. I emailed them and said a couple diesel guys have used them for regs. http://fuelinjectionent.com/webstore/product_info.php?cPath=21_26&products_id=87 My whole fuel system is pushlok parker hose and -6an/jic fittings. I did this for field servicability.

Ok more troubleshooting. I filled a 5 gal bucket and ran another clear hose from the pump suction to the pump. Clear solid fuel going into the pump and a minute so of running the line bnetween the filter and vp was clear of air as well. That narrows it down to before the pump. Hooked the clear line from the DS to the pump and all kinds or air. One more thing I can try is to rehook up the old DSII. I didnt do that as I got irritated with the possibility of having to drop the tank again. If the old draw straw is air free..... If so how to find where the actual leak is? Thinking I might just get a jeep liberty canister and call it good. Are those 3/8's pickup?

Why I thought it was for some other reason. Is it true the tappets cant be pulled out the top and must be dropped out the bottom. I think that is what really confused me. If so they must be slightly mushroomed shaped? only thing I can think of is because they are down in the block and not easy to reach. dowel probably goes into the recess and is just big and soft enough to wedge into the lifter with out damaging them.

Maybe space? Is there a cross memeber near the front of the tank? I have to lift the truck up to get it out anyways. Mnie is 2wd

I will get better pics.IIRC, the pics are showing how I have the line inbetween the stock filter housing and the VP. The rest are cell phone vids. Had to lift on the run as I came around a corner and a cop was coming the other way. first time I ever seen one there. He did look at me funny with the hose up under the wiper. LOLHow do you go about looking for a suction side leak? I did check and saw no fuel after it was sitting for a bit. I am going to run a external line to the pump to bypass the tank pickup. Hope it isnt in the tank itself. Only half tank so it could be the connection near the top.

Havent paid attention but is the WTS light on? Maybe it will only pulse after that light goes out?

OK I posted this on CF. Thanks Mike for the tip on the Overflow valve. I just finished reading your testing on it and then rechecked to see you mention that lol. Quote is what I posted over there: I did some testing according to the bluechip diesel VP44 diag page and came up with it being a fuel delivery problem. Like I said I only installed a DSV replaced the supply line to the filter, cleaned the prefilter and replaced the walbro with another one, and redid the regulator. The fuel lines used to weep fuel and would drip ocasionally. It no longer leaks but now the hard starting. Used to fire up right away. Not sure if its in the tank, or the new line or? I havent tested the overflow valve as I dont think that would cause this. Or would it? PICs and narration: 3/8 clear tubing between the filter housing and the vp Long enough to loop up under the wiper. This is the truck idling. Air is somewhere getting in the system.http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a207/CrazyMoparGirl/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=0718111045.mp4 A quick run. Got on it and the air gets worse. How with an electric pump? After shutdown, the fuel draining back to the tank I hope. Nothing on the ground so its gotta back to the tank. The bubbles appear from the filter housing. Why I dont think the relief valve is stuck open.

I suppose you could see the cracks with them mounted? I might have to crawl under the truck. I have umm overloaded the rear a couple times. I dont wanna have to get new wheels....but I was thinking of 3rd gen wheels with upgraded brakes. Cool wheels mike. Nothing too flashy but purposeful

I am doing brake lines on my Ram charger and from what I remember during the rear end swap on my CTD they were one piece, block to caliper. NAPA has some poly armor lines. green/gray in color and bendable by hand. They some in fixed lengths so no need to flasre, as long as you can get one close to what you need. Not 100% but I thinknig they are standard inverted flare. The premade lines come in different ends as well.

No chance of it hitting the cab? Pulling the tank is not easy on mine. QCSB. I have to drop a cross memeber and to really prevent the foul language from flying, pull the left rear wheel off for more access. I really like the idea of hinging the bed. I have a topper too but a 2x4 under the bed to lift and hinge it back sounds like a little less work for me.

Like Mike said and was my first suggestion, was motorcycle fairing lights under the mirrors. Sorry cant see pics at work. BUT if you have the factory tow mirrors on the bottom should work. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/70/7303/ITEM/Bikemaster-Universal-Flush-Mount-Marker-Light-Kit.aspx and here is a good way to hook them up: http://dsl.torque.net/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html OH still be careful. I swear some people think a flashing turn signal means to pace next to you. :banghead: When they do that I tend to send smoke signals to them. OH forgot about this site for LEDs.: http://www.superbrightleds.com/ Just a thought, what about some of Mike's airplane landing lights under the mirrors lighting up your blind spot, then with the turn signals on it should flush out any pacers.......

I have BD X-monitor dash mount gauges. I also have a diprocol FP gauge in the cubby hole. Works for me. not too fond of the pillar gauges, only cause I like the sleeper look. I have an 01 as well. http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/44P When $$ frees up, thinking of getting a scan gauge II as well.

I still dont understand the wooden dowel trick? Is it to hold the tappets up? You gotta wedge em into the tappets? The more I learn the more I dont understand.

How are the tranny different? Pm TM to post TM? If it involves bringing the line pressure up quicker, how is this accomplished? My understanding is for now the, tranny's line pressure is controlled by the TV cable. Are the newer ones still this way? Also are the parts that do this, if its just linkage or springs, can those parts be used with a 235/450+ engines to help combat the increased torque, or actually the less TM when I have the smarty TM cranked up, or umm down? Whichever for less TM. lol I cant remember off hand but my TM is not turned way down with smarty, just a bit less than stock so I dont kill the tranny. I actually adjusted it to shift how I like it. Messing with TM did change my shift points.

I got my DSV and the grommet ripped on the DSII while dropping the tank. I emailed Vulcan for info as well but what would be a good way to seal the hole up? Its roughly 1 3/8 diameter. Obviously it needs to be diesel compatible. I am thinking I could use it as a hole to refill the tank from my bed mounted aux tank, which currently uses the vent tube.

Wow. Been refilling my system every summer for about 2 yrs. I know. I thought it was the low side schrader valve. Got a new one from napa and I think it leaks worse now, or I just eneded up installing an extra leak. Where did you get the uv dye? Any parts store? Glad you seemed to get it fixed. I have my dad's old set of gauges for R12. They do make adaptors for em right? I also have his vac pump as well so I figured I should tear into it and fix it right for once. ow do you check or make sure you have enough oil in the system?

I heard the clock spring vehind can make noise. As for the movement, it sonds like the tilt section. Dont have a FSM in front of me. Sorry.

I like this one. http://www.4smileys.com/smileys/thinking-smileys/think_smiley_46.gif